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Mechanics question.....65hp Evinrude

B

bama

Contributing Member
Here is my original post:

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=377304


I ended up getting the boat and taking it to the lake much earlier than I had figured. So, in checking it out, I noticed about 1/2 teaspoon of water come out the drain plug in the lower unit. Also, the oil was black.

I know I must have a leak, but I don't know if I have to go the whole water pump repair kit. Can anyone give me an idea of what I should get in order to cover the leak? Haven't had fishing line in the prop seal, but aside from that, I don't know what seal would cause the leak.

Pump repair kit is $70, but maybe I can get by with impeller and some seals? Also, can I order three of the same carb kits or do I need to be carb specific(top, middle, bottom) when ordering? I want more information before I order the parts from marineengine.

THanks.
 
Black gearlube would indicate old lube, a type of older OMC gearlube that was mixed with whale sperm oil. The 1/2 teaspoon of watwer could very well simply be condensation. I'd suggest you drain and refill that unit with the proper newer gearlube, run it a bit in the water, then recheck the unit.

(Checking Gearcase For Leaks)
(J.Reeves)
Remove the large slotted drain/fill screw from the bottom of the gearcase and also the identical looking screw that will be located up near the cavitation plate in order to drain the gearlube.
After all of the lubricant has drained, install one of the slotted screws, whichever your preference might be.
Apply 7 to 12 pounds of air pressure to the open screw hole. Use a piece of rubber fuel line or something to create a tight air hose fit if you do not have a proper fitting.
If a leak exists, that pressure should allow you to locate the leak by sound and/or sight.


Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 
joereeves said:
Black gearlube would indicate old lube, a type of older OMC gearlube that was mixed with whale sperm oil. The 1/2 teaspoon of watwer could very well simply be condensation. I'd suggest you drain and refill that unit with the proper newer gearlube, run it a bit in the water, then recheck the unit.

(Checking Gearcase For Leaks)
(J.Reeves)
Remove the large slotted drain/fill screw from the bottom of the gearcase and also the identical looking screw that will be located up near the cavitation plate in order to drain the gearlube.
After all of the lubricant has drained, install one of the slotted screws, whichever your preference might be.
Apply 7 to 12 pounds of air pressure to the open screw hole. Use a piece of rubber fuel line or something to create a tight air hose fit if you do not have a proper fitting.
If a leak exists, that pressure should allow you to locate the leak by sound and/or sight.

Thanks, Joe! Sounds a lot like pressure test for the crankcase of a chainsaw. I have a setup for that which I should be able to adapt. I am thinking that I have changed the gear oil before(maybe 4-5 years ago). The OMC lube I used may have been really old, though. Testing the lower unit will take all doubt out of my mind. Hope to do it this week. I will post once I have the results.
Click to expand...
 
Pressure test works in cases where oil is leaking out, but normally a vacuum test is the best when water in the gear case.
 
I have a carb off and it sure seems clean, but the hoses may be questionable. I saved the gasket, so I may just look at cleaning them.
What about the needle? It has the rubber tip. Does ethanol eat these away? Up here, we have nothing less than 15% ethanol gas.


Also, I have all 5 bolts off of the lower unit, but it won't come off. I also removed the bolt that holds the shifter shaft on(below the carbs). I don't see anything else to take off, but I also don't want to beat on this thing to get it to release. What should I be doing to make this unit come off?
 
sgtmaj83 said:
Is there a bolt under the trim tab? Most OMC engines have one.
Click to expand...


Yes. I did remove that one. I have come to the conclusion from other sources that the splines must be rusted together. I have the motor upside down and have been soaking the shaft(through about 1/8" gap I made in the lower unit case) with PB Blaster in hopes of softening it up.

This job is WAY harder than I thought it would be. But, I don't see much other things to try to get it to loosen up. Removing the motor won't do much because the splines are on the output shaft as well.
 
VERY late reply, but the answer is that I did get it apart. I ended up cutting off the driveshaft through the housing. Then, taking the housing to get welded where the sawzall cut the aluminum. Next, I had to make a slide hammer to get the tap that finally popped off the driveshaft. There was no marine grease on the shaft, which is why it rusted in place. I redid the water pump and seals while I had the unit off because it must have been that way for a more than a few years. Never had trouble with it after that. Now, it is in storage as I moved to a 55hp Evinrude with electric trim and tilt. It will become my son's boat as I just bought a new(to me) boat.
 
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