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MC 1 outdrive rev

pilot481

Regular Contributor
"Ive got a 68 24ft Fiberform w

"Ive got a 68 24ft Fiberform with a small Chv iL 6 and what I would belive to be an MC1 outdrive. Everything works fine except for engaging reverse. Once in, its fine but I have a heck of a time getting it there. The guys at the boat shop here did a lot of maintance on the outdrive and engine just after I bought the boat about 6 yrs ago. Once I finnally got it in the water, I discovered the reverse problem. When I asked them about the reverse issue they told me its an inherant problem with these drives, yet I see no mention of it in this forum. Shifts fine on muffs, but Im guessin the clutch dog or and gears are rounded off. Any opinions???"
 
Not going into gear may be a w

Not going into gear may be a worn shift spool in the lower unit.when was the lower cable replaced ?
 
"I have no idea, I havnt been

"I have no idea, I havnt been into this outdrive at all in the time Ive had it. Id guess, probably never or at least 10 yrs.anyway."
 
"What exactly does it do?
Doe


"What exactly does it do?
Does it ratchet until it engages? click click click then thud into gear.

The pic below shows the shift parts where the control cable and the short cable connect.there is the arm with a slot in it. Ideally the stud in the slot would be in the middle. to get better reverse adjust stud awat from the arms pivot point. I know this is a little fuzzy but it is how I copied it from here....

335583.jpg
"
 
"Also a measurement can be mad

"Also a measurement can be made to determine some issues.

With the control cable removed from the shift bracket shift into full reverse and make a mark on the shift cable at the plastic end and the shict cable. put into full forward and make another mark. Measure the distance. 2 7/8" to 3 1/8" any more and the control cable should be replaced.

the short cable, remove from shift bracket and push all the way while the prop is spun by hand c'clockwise and full forward engagement. Make a mark on the cable where the black plastic cable is. now with someone holding the prop from moving in a c'clockwise direction start to pull the cable, as soon as resistance is felt make another mark, measure, 9/16 to 5/8" should be the dimension. If greater than that then either the short cable is worn or the shift spool is worn.

Also the intermiediat linkage should be checked for wear and slop. Sometimes you can ""manipulate" some of the linkage to make it tighter.

Also one trick on old worn out systems and this is only a cover up not a fix!!! Is to do this.

remove the short shift cable and push the cable end in all the way while the prop is spun c'clockwise and you get full forward engagement.
measure the distance between the cable end EYE (that the mounting stud went thru) and the center of the brass trunion. It should be 6 inches......

You can reduce that to 5 15/16" or even 5 7/8" and what this will do it reduce the amount of cable movement needed for gear/clutch dog engagement. CAUTION!!!! this may also cause shift interuptor switch engagement prematurely. It is a fine balance on the old worn out stuff but can be made to work MAYBE......"
 
"it ratchets alot but wont go

"it ratchets alot but wont go into gear unless I go back to neutral then try again. I will put all your ideas to good use, Thanks for all the help!!!"
 
"You will have to remove the d

"You will have to remove the drive for this test.
Turn brass shift shoe fully foward, it should be in a straight line. looking at it from the top,1200 not 1230 .Too much play will allow the shoe to go past 1200"
 
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