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Mariner 50hp Year made amp starting problem

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fergo

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"Hi from australia, Have 50hp

"Hi from australia, Have 50hp mariner & want to know year it was made (Serial No is either OD251838 or C251838(this second No is on the welsh plug near top of motor. Next problem is it will not fire. Had a intermittent fault when it would then would'nt start hot or cold. Now it won't even fire, has compression 120psi all cyl & spark, have tried putting fuel in plug hole still no go. Is it a fault with this yr motor, for electrical faults. please HELP Cheers John"
 
Both numbers should be the sam

Both numbers should be the same but would trust the one on the welsh plug - making this a 1990 model.

Your compression sounds good and you say you have spark - so the only problem left is fuel.

You say it won't even fire if you put fuel directly in the cylinders.

That would say that you don't have spark - but you do or that you have no compression - but you do.

These are/were a good engine. No real "phantom" problems but something certainly is wrong with yours.

How did you confirm it had spark?
 
"Hi Graham, I tested for spark

"Hi Graham, I tested for spark the way that use to on all motors I have worked eg cars, motorbikes etc. That is take plug out ground to engine then turnover, at which point it has heaps of spark, but I read in a shop manual that is not the way. Is this correct. The plugs are new, the fuel is new and I did a test on trigger last night and readings were OK, about 1100 ohms each wire. I needed to know what year the motor was to do tests."
 
"Hi Graham, I meant to say tha

"Hi Graham, I meant to say thanks for your reply to my questions. Also are the Ohm readings correct for this trigger.Cheers John"
 
"I don't test for spark th

"I don't test for spark that way - got a shock once too many times, but that a good quick way to test.

I use a timing light - again not exactly the best way, but gives you a quick answer.

Really an adjustable spark tester is the best way. You set a (jump) gap and observe not only if it makes the jump but also the colour of the spark itself.

In any event, that doesn't sound like your problem.

Your resistance numbers sound fine and since you are getting spark it really sounds like the ignition is fine.

So with that, and a good compression number, it has to be "no fuel" to the cylinders.

That doesn't explain why you couldn't even get a pop out of it when you put gas right in the cylinder but this one is leaving me totally puzzled."
 
"Hi Graham, it's me again

"Hi Graham, it's me again have done another test since I last emailed.
I have tested the Stator (Model No 398-5704A7) which has 2 yellow, 1 black, 1 red & 1 blue wire.
Took red & blue wire off the switch box then did test.
Red to black wire had resistance of 141.4 ohms.(well within guideline 135-165 ohms).
Blue to black Had NO Continuity.(guideline of 5800-7000 ohms).
Are these the correct tests for this Stator,if so I think have found the problem.
Also tested for spark again with timing light this time and no GO, so it must haved died right on last test.
Thanks again Graham for your time and will let you know how I get on with the motor.
PS- What happened is that when I bought the boat & motor it was with the understanding that the motor was a 1993 model, so to do test I needed all info to get the right manual to be able to tests.Pays to spend time instead of money. Can you just let me know the Stator.
Cheers John"
 
"John, maybe I'm missing s

"John, maybe I'm missing something in my manual but don't see where it calls to test between the blue and the black.

Your two yellows are from the charge coils on the stator to recharge battery etc.

The black is the stator ground wire.

The blue is the feed from the low speed windings and,

The red is from the high speed windings.

The two tests I have listed are between the red and the black (so high speed and ground) and between red and blue (hi and low speed).

Doesn't mention testing between low (blue) and ground.

Look for your 5800-7000 between the blue and the red...."
 
"Hi Graham, I did do the test

"Hi Graham, I did do the test also between blue and red and had no continuity there either.
Sorry I forgot to mention that in last email.
The manuals I have are on discs (one covers from 1965-1989 40hp-115hp 2 stroke 3&4 cyl) other (1990-2000 2.5hp-275hp 2 stroke 1 to 6 cyl including fuel injection & jet drive)and I don't know who printed them. This is why I am finding hard to know which one is correct, as the wire colors from the stators in my book don't match up with the year model and test procedure. So my results are (red-black 141.4 red-blue no-cont) in the book 1 test is for 1991-on models 50-60hp), results they say are as follows (red-blue 3600-4200 & red-black 90-140) Also retested spark this time with timing light and had spark on No 2 cyl but none on 1 and 3. Still looking!!!.
Cheers John"
 
"No continuity between blue an

"No continuity between blue and red would tell me the stator is toasted.

But before I ran out and replaced it I would have it tested on a DVA tester.

Probably need to get it to a shop for that one, most guys don't have a DVA tester or adapter laying around the garage and it's the only way to confirm if the voltage coming from the stator is correct.

Any decent place that works on outboards or motorcycles should be able to test it for you - only takes a few minutes."
 
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