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Long Shaft Swap

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frogtog

New member
I've seen some topics related to this but not exactly answering my problem.

I have a late 60's Johnson/Evinrude 6 hp LONG shaft outboard. I'm looking into "transferring" or swapping the lower unit to a less used same year short shaft unit. I am wondering how involved of a project it is.

Thanks.
 
Are you wanting to end up with a short shaft or a long shaft? The procedure is fairly simple, but on these years the shift shaft has to be accessed after the powerhead is removed from the middle leg or housing. What is your model number?
 
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timguy said:
Are you wanting to end up with a short shaft or a long shaft? The procedure is fairly simple, but on these years the shift shaft has to be accessed after the powerhead is removed from the middle leg or housing. What is your model number?
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Model No 6RL-69M

I want to keep it long shaft. I just want to transfer the long shaft extension from the long shaft outboard to the short shaft outboard. Which I guess means I have to remove the short shaft lower unit and replace with the long shaft extension.
 
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Yes you need to remove the powerhead to get to the shift shaft coupling. Get a new base gasket too. Change impeller while it is apart too.
 
fdrgator said:
powerhead = the actual gas engine that sits on the top end of an outboard motor.
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Thank you. Thats what I thought you meant but was not sure.

So, what I'm hearing is that the extension can simply be unbolted from the long shaft outboard and transferred to the short shaft outboard (after removing the lower unit of the short shaft outboard).

I'm pretty handy with engines and mechanically over all. I work on my cars but have not messed with the lower part of outboards. The most I've done with outboards was replace the diaphragm pump of a 6hp Johnson that wasn't running well, and also replace the prop.

Anything else I should know before attempting this work?
 
Sorry guys was thinking older models on the shift shaft......I think the handy coupling that your motors use was started in 1965.
You take out the 4 bolts on the upper part of the 4 inch housing extension, opening it just enough to get your socket inside......taking out the upper or lower coupling bolt......whichever lines up the best with your opening.....take it all the way out while making sure the threads are not binding (you may have to move it up or down slightly to keep the little fine thread bolt from binding on the cut out in the shift rod. Once the bolt is out, you can separate the lower unit. Then take the other 4 bolts out to remove the extension housing in order to access the water pump. To reassemble, make sure to use anti seize or grease on the shaft splines on top that enter the crankshaft. You have to put the longer water tube over to your old short shaft too. Put impeller into your water pump housing turning clockwise looking from above (counter clockwise looking from below) use a little silicone spray as a pre lube for impeller. I always anti seize compound all fasteners. Why? Once removed, the thin zinc coating is disturbed on the bolts, then they are more likely to oxidize and stick in place, making trouble for future repairs and maintenance. The little coupling bolts are stainless, but I anti seize them too. Make sure the cut out in the shift rod is perfectly aligned before you start the coupling bolt.
 
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For aluminum in marine engines you need a nickel based Never-Seez that contains no copper, to avoid galvanic corrosion, No?
 
Yes, excellent point, the nickle base is what I use for everything. Copper has not performed well for me. I have torn into things that I assembled years and years ago with both formulas, and the nickle has hung in there much much better than the copper, especially where aluminum is involved. Klink, you seem like a sharp dude, what are you doing in the marine industry? We need more like you. Most shops I have had experience with are hacks.
 
I am just a guy fixing his own outboards and sometimes for friends. I was however in the automotive and marine aftermarket parts manufacturing business for 20+ years, having parts made overseas in Taiwan and Argentina for sale to the USA. You'll find that all of my comments here are just additions to what others say, small details that the experts sometimes omit because they are basic to them. They provide 99%, and I just add 1%.​
 
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