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Long block sanity check

J

joeld98

Member
"Seems odd to ask for a sanity

"Seems odd to ask for a sanity check about spending money on a 20 year old boat...

Oh well! I'm coming out of my denial stage after losing the port engine last fall (search for Milky Oil) and I'm about to order up a couple replacement long blocks.

I'm trying to keep the old engines "whole" enough to rebuild in my shop over the summer.

I'm planning to order

(1) CCW 454 LB w/oil pan & timing cover
(1) CW 454 LB w/ oil pan & timing cover
(2) Intake Manifolds / Gaskets
(2) Rochester Qj Carbs
(2) Water Pumps
(2) Fuel Pumps
(2) FWC Aftermarket kits
(2) Distributors EI
(2) Starters
(2) 2nd Stage Fuel Filters
(2) Remote oil Filter kits
(4) Valve Covers
Fuel Lines, Senders, Pulleys, Ignition wires and belts

Re-using Exhaust, wiring harness,alternator, oil cooler and raw water pumps.

What's missing? Fuel pump push rods?

I'd also like to do the burn in out of the boat, is it possible to do the first 20 minute run on blocks with a garden hose?

Any pointers are appreciated."
 
"I'm thinking you may want

"I'm thinking you may want to price all those extras out and add it to the long block price and then compare it to a turnkey drop in. Maybe not brband new but factory refurb'ed, complete units. They'll have warranty and no 'assembly time'.

I'd be a bit reluctant with a 20 yr old oil cooler with a fresh long block...granted mine are that vintage but the rebuilt is almost that old, too.

You won't find new q-jets; best you can do is rebuilds. Personally, I'd rebuild what you have and then use them if you stay on this course.

Be okay reusing the exhaust manifolds if FWC; RWC'ed ones would be scrap metal if mine.

Doing the initial startup/break-in run out of the boat isn't a problem....look here:
http://www.marineengine.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=12489&post=264535#POST26 4535
I think that is Bob's thread on his rebuild effort. He plans to do the 'burn-in' out of the boat. If not that thread, then search on Bob's postings and you should find it w/o much effort.

You'll also need to add motor mounts to your list - at least give yours a thorough inspection. I haven't seen a set that was used regularly make 20 years."
 
"You're buying new carbs b

"You're buying new carbs but reusing the exhaust manifolds. I don't get it, especially after experiencing milky oil.

What is the purpose of rebuilding them? If you're doing it to get some money back for them you're better off buying Toyota stock. You'll spend as much in parts as you can buy a reman for.

I'm just wondering..."
 
"Thanks guys,
I should have c

"Thanks guys,
I should have clarified from the other post. I replaced everything except the carbs and distributor last spring. Carbs and Raw Water pumps were rebuilt at the same time. Just did the points, condenser and cap on the distributors.

I rolled the dice anticipating the engines were end of life but hoping to get a season or two from a partial. The house won.

I could definitely re-use the carbs, but thought I'd keep the old engines nearly complete. Seemed like a pay me now pay me later decision since I want to try rebuilding the old engines. Just doing it for the education."
 
Hauled and Blocked yesterday after a short tow. 1st of the long blocks showed up yesterday, the other is due next week along with other parts. Pulled the manifolds today, hope to pull the engines a week from tuesday.
 
Still waiting on the standard rotation long block, but the ret of the parts showed up this week. I ended up with:

1409 Performer Carbs
2161 Intakes
YLM624 Distributors
Plus all of the misc parts to build them out as FWC.

With reuse of the exhaust, water pump, alternator and oil cooler that are less than 12 months old it came in less than 10K. Heat exchangers being the big ticket items.

I'm sure I've missed a few odds and ends but will sort that out as I dive in. I know I need to pick up new coils. I'd like to do without the ballast resistor if possible and need to figure out how that works with the breaker/old wiring. Also need to wire in the new choke.
 
You will be looking at some mods to the carb angle spacer, a new fuel tube (or hose), possible carb fuel input adapter, and like you say, a place to tie in the choke wire.
 
I picked up a couple square bore 5 degree plates. Looks just like the Edelbrock 2732 square bore adapter plate they The QJ wedge part number describes it as an 8 degree angle. I've put them side by side and the angles seem to line up but the Moroso one is about 1/4 in thicker.

Couple questions:

1) Is the 3 Degree difference significant in operation?

2) What is the downside of using a square bore plate vs. modifying the old one into a divided square bore (I'm guessing that is the mod)

3) The carb came with a square bore gasket but mentions a divided square bore gasket. If #2 is to mod as a divided bore, should it carry through to all the gaskets?
 
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