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lock-up problem on my 1994 5.0

kcodell5

New member
i bought a 5.0 alpha mercruiser at an auction. have added new battery, starter and bellows (complete). i have gone to the lake 6 times - and only once did it NOT lock up on me. I turn the key and the engine will try to turn but seems to be in a bind and wont complete the turn. I have shifted the gear in forward and reverse several times thinking that the nuetral safety switch needed to be adjusted - but then again, since it trys to turn over not really believing that is the problem. the last time i went to the lake, i put the boat back on the trailer and shifted into forward gear, went back to the prop, tried to turn the gears by "banging" on it and then tried the starter...the boat started right up. Went back to the lake and ran for a little while, then it locked up again. took the boat home and the last thing i did was remove the lower drive unit completly - the engine starts/turns over just great w/o the upper/lower unit attached. u-joints look good, but had gear oil in the new U-joint bellows....guessing i have a seal out. my question is...is there a possiblity that something (broken gear tooth) floating around in the upper/lower unit that would cause the engine to "bind up" even though its in nuetral (confirmed at the prop even). any ideas?
 
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sounds like the engine is hydrolocking due to water in the cylinders. common issue on boat engines caused by bad exhaust manifolds, risers, or riser to manifold gasket leaking. Can also happen with faulty intake manifold, or bad water shutters (aka exhaust flappers) in the Y pipe.
Next time it locks, pull all 8 spark plugs out and then crank it and see which bank fires water out.
 
thanks hystat...when i first got the boat i pulled the gear unit off (to replace the bellows) and when i separated it a metal piece fell out of the exhaust port/bellow area. so thats what that was huh? lol
That can keep an engine from completing a turn? When i ran the motor the first few times, i hooked it up with "dog ears and a garden hose" - it would run fine for 15-20 minutes and never lock up.
I have two new exhaust shutters (these that were sent are all rubber though - no metal) but not sure where it goes, or how hard it is to replace. . is it possible that i got sent the wrong parts? my book doesn't show "how to replace" - where can i go to see where they go at least?
 
update --> took the lower unit top cap off, looked like a grenade had gone off inside. The seal on the drive shaft leaked and the top end had run dry causing gear failure and locked up...yes i know it was bought at an auction for a steal...$2,000 for a $14,000 boat. Still happy with the purchase- add a $1800 aftermarket (3 year warrantee) gear box - I have a good boat for 3 more years at a steal.
 
If you are planning on replacing just the top end especially after signs that there was total failure and lack of oil,lots of heat,etc., you very well may have issues with the lower unit as well. SEI sells a brand new aftermarket drive for $1,100.00-$1,300 for the Alpha One with a two or three year warranty. (not sure) Anyways, I think that Steve was just being honest and you will have to debug and go through more than you think to have a dependable boat. (Your not the first guy that has posted and will not be the last.) Two grands not that bad but you are not done yet. jmho. Hopefully, all else is well and good with a little bit of elbow grease and alot of money (lol) you will be well on your way to a successful boating season. Sometimes truth is hard to hear but you have to understand that I would bet my bottom dollar that what any one of these guys tells you probably has alot of truth behind it. I guess what I am trying to say is don't take it personal and listen closely to what they tell you. Lots of incredible information to be gained along with highly respected mechanics on board so like I said listen closely to what is being said. I had many issues on my boat restoration project and could never have done it alone so be open minded and don't be afraid of a little constructive criticism, that's all! Also, don't get discouraged easily and continue posting about how you make out with the repair. This is a great forum so take advantage of it. Wishing you only the best, Tom
 
Install an OD resevior. It's an easy way to check the oil level in the OD and it keeps positive pressure on the OD seals.
 
Thanks Tom - your input IS helpful and appreciated- in fact, that is exactly what I am putting in/on my boat (SEI). Its $1500 here in Texas to get both the upper and lower units shipped. My reason for buying at the auction is that it not only was it a great place to get cars & boats at cheap prices, but suppports a school where kids can get a true diploma (not GED). I have bought several vehicles there and fixed them up to put up for sale. This is my first boat purchase and I knew there was a reason for it being at the auction. It's not my first rodeo either...if you get my drift. I have had outboards before, but never had any experience with a stern drive/inboard. I don't mean any harm to Steve or anyone else - just was looking for POSITIVE help to not only help me with my boat but others who might experience the same problem now or later on. I have a pretty good idea on the engine (305 GM), but don't know anything about drive units. I will take your advise on the "listening" for ideas - but this isn't a place for negative comments without any input to the problem I asked about being addressed. It will only lead to others being discouraged to post. Thanks again Tom.
 
thanks hystat...when i first got the boat i pulled the gear unit off (to replace the bellows) and when i separated it a metal piece fell out of the exhaust port/bellow area. so thats what that was huh? lol
That can keep an engine from completing a turn? When i ran the motor the first few times, i hooked it up with "dog ears and a garden hose" - it would run fine for 15-20 minutes and never lock up.
I have two new exhaust shutters (these that were sent are all rubber though - no metal) but not sure where it goes, or how hard it is to replace. . is it possible that i got sent the wrong parts? my book doesn't show "how to replace" - where can i go to see where they go at least?

In process of replacing my shutters right now. Very easy after you pull the risers / hoses and elbows off the "Y" pipe. They connect right on the top of the "Y" pipe in a couple of holes that are covered by the connector hose. Don't know for sure when the change was, but yours "may" have a ring on it that just snaps on to the top of the Y-pipe, mine '92 didn't.
 
Yeah, the entire assembled SEI drive would be the way to go for you. I guess the one you are getting is an Alpha One generation II since after 1990 or is it 1991. (no matter) Totally admireable with respect to your auction purchase. At least someone out there cares a little for kids these days, not many but at least somebody! Good stuff! Its good to help other people, just the way I was brought up I guess.
After you get your drive, post back before installation. There are a few things that can be a little confusing or create a few questions as you progress with your new drive installation. The one thing that I had the most trouble with was the adjustment procedure for the shift mechanism,shift interrupt switch and the short shift cable that goes through drive. If you are using a Seloc manual, forget it! lol It was about about as helpful as me trying to make sense out of the Dead Sea Scrolls! lol Maybe it's just me! but I doubt it!lol Anyway, when you get to that point, try and ask questions if you can't get the drive to shift properly. I am not familiar with the way you are set up so at this point I am guessing. I am sure you will get directions from SEI so pay attention and follow every detail carefully. Especially, about putting control in forward, making sure the shift lever on gimble is aligned to the shift arm on drive itself. You will have to make sure that you engage drive by hand into forward gear and to be sure, I think the prop should feel locked when you try and rotate the prop in the counterclockwise position. Also, make sure you buy the installation gasket set cause you should replace all that stuff too. Make sure the drive is full of oil! (Uh-Oh) Sounds stupid but don't assume anything. I am not sure if they can ship with oil in drive that is why I decided to mention. If all is well and good, you should be able to slide the drive right up and into the engine coupler. A little bit of a pain in the ass especially if splines are not aligned properly. Don't use bolts to pull the drive home, it should slide into place with a good shove if you are doing everything right. Also if you turn prop counter clockwise, I think it may help align and slip in easier. It will move counter-clockwise a little bit and feel like it is spring loaded and then stop hard by hand. This may give you a fraction of movement at the shaft so as to mate to coupler. Also, found that there is a sweet spot if you get the jackstand on your trailer at the right height it tends to orientate the drive a little closer to the ground so you don't blow your back out. (maybe get somebody with a strong back to help you get it up and in) You gotta be careful not to knock drive out of forward gear when inserting drive so you will have to look underneath to make sure the shift linkage is aligned to one another. I believe it should be at the 12:00 position while installing and that should be in full forward on controller. You will have a few more questions later. One last thing, I layed a piece of cardboard on the ground just in case I had to pull drive back out and could not get it all the way in place. Don't want it all scratched up lying on concrete or asphalt. Just a thought. talk to you soon, Tom
 
Hey please don't take personally, what I said but is very ture...just keep a open mind you may have more problems
Just giving you heads up, you may have to add more money then you think!!!!I have been working in this business for 35 years...
I had a guy buy a very nice Sea Ray in Florida...He came to me about a overheat, $7,000.00 dollars later...He paid just $2,500.00 for the boat...


Steve
 
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