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Large turning circle Mercury 30 Hhp

Aqua

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Hi folks,

I am operating an Aquaquad CLX powered by a 2012 30 hp fourstroke Mercury short shaft outboard. It really is a blast to ride this setup but I am quite disappointed by the very large turning circle. The engine is a handstart version with integrated throttle lever. The original Mercury remote control conversion kit has been installed to use the boat's handlebar-steering and throttle/gear lever.
I've seen the same boat fitted with a Honda outboard which had an extremely tight turning circle. It almost turned in a boat's length while mine needs at least 4 boat lenghts to make a 360.
So where is the problem? Are there more than one remote control conversion kits available? Or does anyone have another hint to solve the problem?

Thanks alot for any help

Alan
 
The turning radius is probably limited by it or the pivot limit of the engine.

that's what we thought before as well but when the engine is disconnected from the remote stem, it pivots alot more. The remote definately IS the limiting factor. Attaching the remote stem closer to the engine is no option anymore since it is installed the closest possible.
 
Post pics of the connections.
Sometimes under the cowl is another hole that the steering link can fit into.
The steering arm/connection might be too short???
Measure it against the Honda.J
 
Post pics of the connections.
20120227_175533-1.jpg
There we go. Thats the only pic I've got but I think the essential part is visible. I just noticed that the L-shaped bracket which is bolted to the engine would leave room to drill another hole closer to the engine. That makes a difference of not even half of an inch or so and I doubt that this will change alot in tilting angle. What do you think? I am miserable in physics and math but this should be calculable how many more tilting degrees could be atained.

Sometimes under the cowl is another hole that the steering link can fit into.

I'll check that once I get back to the boat this Sunday. Thanks for the hint!

The steering arm/connection might be too short???
Measure it against the Honda.J

As for my understanding the length of the steering arm should not be responsible for the tilting capacity, as the way covered by the steering arm is limited by the steering itself.
I tried this with a paper sheet pivoting always around the same center point. It did not matter how long the steering arm was but how close to the center point the steering point was located i.e. the closer the point to the turning center was, greater turning angle resulted (provided that always the same amount of arm-travel was simulated)

What do you think? Is my thinking wrong?
 
i think you are right .....assuming thats the same wheel and rod that was used on the honda....there is something that dont look right to me in that pic where the arm attached to the motor....cant put my finger on it though..maybe the rope is in the way distorting my vision...just something aint right..
 
If you unhook the steering arm will the motor turn more?
The arm looks right.It just might need to be moved farther back.
Tilting??? You didn't say anything about tilting in original post.
There should be enough room under the cowl so it tilts no problem if moved further back.J
 
If you unhook the steering arm will the motor turn more?

It does turn quiet a bit more when unhooked.

The arm looks right.It just might need to be moved farther back.

This is what I am going to try out tomorrow. I will also take some better pictures.

Tilting??? You didn't say anything about tilting in original post.

Sorry my fault. I was always talking about turning. Tilt and trim do work fine.
 
Something does not look right about your setup. The steering link and bracket do not look like they belong to a Merc motor. The O.E. link is a totally different shape and length and the bracket had 3 holes up the center. The Link attached from underneath as well. I think you have the wrong set of parts there. That almost looks like is belongs to a 9.9HP. Not a 30.
 
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Well I took some better pictures this weekend. I also tried to figure out how to solve the problem. I cannot determine wether there is a wrong piece installed, everything seems ok. In my opinion the only way to achieve more engine turning is to attach the steering arm closer to the turning center point. But this will result in significantly higher steering forces. The force acting on the handlebar is already quiet high (it has to be since there is no friction control) and one can really feel the 30 horses tearing left and right at speed.
So here are the pics. Perhaps someone's got an idea. It is confirmed that only genuine Mercury parts were used.
 

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Looks like you can move the end over to one of the other holes.The rear one.
Or maybe turn the bracket,reverse it????
Then change the direction of the bolt so it doesn't hit?????J
 
Well the verdict is that I will probably leave it the way it is except that I will adjust the trim tab to correct the handlebar position when driving straight abead. Thanks for the link!
I already tried to turn the bracket and reversed it as well but it just does not fit. When the farthest hole is used the turning radius is even larger than it is now.
The best way would be to drill a hole in the steering arm (the one made of cast iron) attached directly to the engine but this would void the 5 year warranty which I do want to keep.
 
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