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key switch to start blows trim fuse

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kaddiddle

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Just finished a total boat rebuild and did nothing to the motor (E60eledr) but remove and reinstall. Ran it last week on the muffs. Got to the water today and noting. Turn the key to start and nothing. Did find that turning the key to start would blow the trim fuse. Got 12.4 volts on the battery side of the solenoid and nothing on the other side with the key in the start position. Any suggestions?
 
update, it is not the trim fuse. I did a little more testing and the fuse is from the battery side of the solenoid to the B on the key switch. It blows when i turn key to the start position and when the fuse blows the trim quits working. Still no start turn. When i bypass the solenoid the start engages.
 
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is the solenoid picking?can you hear it when you got to start position?if you did a boat rebuild you probably had the batteries out....i would disconnect everything from the start battery except the two heavy wires that go to the motor....simplify the problem....replace the power trim fuse...you have another inline fuse under the cowl probably in the wiring on the right hand side of the motor in the wiring...check that fuse also..will it fail on the trailer or do you have to be in the water?salt water or fresh?
 
ok..you were typing at the same time as me...thats the 2nd fuse i was referring to......it kills everything.....the solenoid will not pick.....i would still do the isolation i mentioned and make sure the battery connections are good...if it still blows the fuse i would disconnect the battery...turn the key on....take a multimeter and see if the positive wire that you have disconnected goes to low ohms or changes reading when you turn the key on and off...you had the motor off...take a few minutes and eyeball the wiring under the cowl and make sure that some wire in the positive feed didnt get grounded...i
 
i should have said low ohms to ground....check in two places...the motor block and the negative wire that you disconnected from the battery....
 
check all my connections on the motor, battery and the switch. With the remote control box open and the switch wires exposed and checked i replace the fuse and we have contact (motor fires). I reassemble the remote control and hit the key and the fuse blows. take the remote apart again and check the wires replace the fuse and contact again. close it up and fuse blows. the previous owner added an extra wire for a fuel gauge and it looks rough. when the remote control box is open the electric primer clicks and everything works. I am thinking of replacing the switch and reworking the wires when i do so. Your thoughts Papyson?
 
sorry for the delay..i been out of pocket today....i would not replace the switch yet.....you are jamming some wiring when you put it back together....the fuse only blows when you turn the switch....is this correct?....so that says your problem is on one of the output wires from the ''on'' position on the switch....do you have to have the switch just in the ''on'' position or do you have to turn it to the ''start'' position to blow the fuse?....inspect the output wires and this will narrow your search ....separate the wires and look for discoloration of missing insulation...disconnect these wires if you have to to find where the problem is....a multi meter would help you if you have one and know how to use it....i dont know exactly how this control screws back together but it may be possible that one of these screws are getting into your wiring when you put it back together.....you may also have to cut some cable ties to inspect the wiring thoroughly...
 
disconnect that wire that you dont like the looks of and pull it out of the box and reassemble and see what happens..
 
The fuse DOES NOT blow when the ignition switch is OUT of the control box, but DOES BLOW when the control box and the ignition switch is assembled..... HELLO!

Observe where the ignition switch wiring terminal ends are when you install the switch within the control box. One of the wire terminal ends attached to the "S" terminal of that switch is shorting to ground.
 
OK, will do. i found in the remote box that the previous owner insulated the warning horn (2 prong type) from touching the top of the box with hard plastic? I will do as you suggested joe thanks-a-bundle. Will update asap.
 
After closer look the "A" terminal wire(purple in color) comes out of the harness to the A terminal then is spliced with one wire that goes to the horn and to the 3 dog plug. These wires between the switch and the horn looked as though they were mashed when the remote was put back together. The horn is two spaded with one for the purple and the other is a pink or faded red wire to the harness. The horn also has a little hole that is not used. The VRO was removed when i bought the boat so I premix my gas. I plan to fix these wires reconnect every thing and give it a try tomorrow. the s terminal wire looks good. I took all the wires off the switch before i read Joes post so i was unable to tell if it was touching anything to ground it out. Will update.
 
Update - Finally got some time to work on the boat again. Disconnected all the wires from the switch fixed the ones that looked a ruff reinstalled and we have lift-off. Closed up the remote control and remounted w/o tightening too tight and we still have lift-off. Thanks guys for all the help. The next project is the water pump. Any advice? I have the repair manual but Experience is always a plus. Thanks again.
 
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