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Joohnson Hydraulic Shift

ko4nrbs

Regular Contributor
I think the Johnson 50 HP motor I found is a Hydraulic shift. It's serial number is E3469662. It's not here for me to check for a model number.

Should the hydraulic shift be a deal breaker? I don't know anything about a hydraulic shift and was concerned it might be undependable. The motor works fine now.

Thanks,
Bill
 
Well it is still working after 41 years so it must be reliable!! Is the throttle connected so as to vary rpms when shifting?

If the lower unit fails and it is cost prohibitive to fix can the motor be converted to a manual shfit lower unit?

Bill
 
(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)
Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 
Water must be kept out of the gear oil.-If motor has been properly maintained , then a seal kit is a good investment in keeping the lower unit working for many years to come.---------The switch in the control box puts it in forward before opening the throttle.-It always shifts at the correct speed, no linkages to adjust.
 
I really appreciate you guys helping me out!! I'll reseal it if the powerhead compression is ok. It should be 100psi or better, correct?

I use to own a 1964 75 HP Johnson with the magnets in it. It always shifted well and the guy I sold it to runs the dickens out of it pulling his kids on tubes.

Thanks again,
Bill
 
Electric shift whether the older " electramatic " or the newer " hydro-electric " units are in my opinion simple / reliable/ well engineered. Trouble is few shops want to work on them because they have no greyhaired experienced mechanics.
 
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