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Johnson trim sender

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wallyuwl

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I have a new-to-me 1985 boat, with a 1985 90HP Johnson V4 outboard. It needs a new trim sending unit, part number 583358. It was discontinued a couple years ago and I have only found one place that has it, but it is $180 shipped (about double the price it was just a couple years ago before being discontinued).

I've seen there is a part number 583359 (also discontinued, but I can get on ebay for $125), and have read most of these senders are interchangeable with the only major differences between all of these sender units being some have a ground wire (that isn't needed on all). Anyone know about these motors and know for sure of a different part number that would work?

Thanks
 
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I believe you will find the third wire is a green bonding wire? Not a ground wire. You will not need it in your application. You can look here on marine engine.com at #581754
 
It is from a 1978 85hp & will fit, but may have different connectors on the ends of the wires. You can change those easily or splice the wires to your connectors from the old wires. Any trim sender from a 1977 140hp to 1990 V-6 will work, but several different wire connectors were used. Some had different wire lengths, but you will have your old wire to make the wire longer on the new units.
Starting in 1991 the trim unit changed & I don't think the mount was the same orientation.
 
Thanks for the reply. After looking everywhere on the internet, it turns out a large dealer about 100 miles from me had one of the correct part number (583358) left for MSRP of $93. So they are shipping it today. Go figure.

One other question that is unrelated but I don't want to start a new thread... I am replacing the rectifier/regulator this evening probably. I talked to a marine mechanic with the symptoms and he was "99%" sure that was the problem, so I ordered one. Replacement requires the flywheel to be removed. My question is, when I replace the flywheel (I plan to put it on exactly how it comes off) do I need to adjust the timing again? I also saw that it should be torqued to 105 ft lbs.

Thanks.
 
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You should be fine pulling the flywheel for a reg/rec change out. No need to re-time motor. Torque for nut sounds right.
 
Something I found out over the years. Sometimes a sender will not be compatabile with the gauge. One or the other will have to be switched,
 
I assume you are aware that all gauges are not alike? This is true for factory or after market gauges. They look just alike, but are not. You have OMC outboard gauges, OMC stern drive gauges, Mercury gauges, & Yamaha outboard gauges. They can be difficult to tell apart. As far as I know all of those mention work opposite of OMC outboard gauges. I am not sure about Suzuki outboards or Yamaha stern drives?
 
t2stroke said:
I assume you are aware that all gauges are not alike? This is true for factory or after market gauges. They look just alike, but are not. You have OMC outboard gauges, OMC stern drive gauges, Mercury gauges, & Yamaha outboard gauges. They can be difficult to tell apart. As far as I know all of those mention work opposite of OMC outboard gauges. I am not sure about Suzuki outboards or Yamaha stern drives?
Click to expand...

So I put in the new rect/reg yesterday. Went smooth, took a little less than two hours total. Put in the CDI replacement part, number CDI-193-5204. Have not tested it yet. I will put it on the hose after replacing the trim sender, which should arrive today or tomorrow.

I ordered Sierra Amega gauges. Made sure to get ones labeled Johnson/Evinrude/OMC on ones where there is a difference in wiring between engine manufacturs.
 
Today I received the trim sender and I installed it. I put the boat in the driveway and put the muffs on it with the hose. The tachometer works from replacing the rectifier/regulator and the trim gauge works! Just a few minor questions related to the trim sender unit...

- There is a black wire and a white wire on the new trim sender. The old one just had two black wires. The wires have pin connectors on the ends. There is a connector on the back part of the motor to connect the pins after running the cable back there. It doesn't seem to matter which way I connect the black and white wires (i.e.: which hole I plug the white wire in and black wire in on the connector), it still makes the trim gauge work. Just making sure this is normal and expected?

- The only "problem" I see is that the trim gauge only goes to 3/4 up even when the motor is up enough that the trim sender arm is fully up. Can these be adjusted or calibrated?

- There is also a little bit of resistance (very small) almost on when pressing the trim sender arm down with my finger. It happens for a moment exactly at the point where the gauge reads 1/2 way. I'm guessing this is normal?

Thanks!
 
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