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Johnson Outboard repair shops

sharkin95

sharkin95

Regular Contributor
Looking for a Johnson repair shop to work on my 2001 115 hp Johnson OB.....no rip off shops please... Plymouth Ma. 25-50 mi.radius
 
Google or Yelp is your friend. But I will tell you now a good shop is worth it's weight in gold. If you don't want to pay buy a manual and work on the motor yourself.
 
I have owned all I/O most of my life when it comes to O/B kinda get lost with the process of starting and restarting the engine. looking for that old timer who has worked on Johnson / Evinrude most of his life...which I know is getting harder to find
 
Nothing to do with where you are, a good mechanic gets paid. Some people do not want to pay for experience but are the first ones to cry when they don't get paid themselves.

To start your motor we can help you with that.
For a cold start here is.the procedure
#1 pump fuel primer ball till hard.
#2 push the cold lever until you feel resistance. (your style of remote will determine where the cold start lever is)
#3 Turn the key to start and push in at the same time until the motor starts.
You may need to push the key in a couple times to keep the motor running.
You may also need to push the cold start lever up/down to keep running.
Ideally you want your warm up/start idle to be about 1500 rpms.
your warm start will depend on how long the motor has been sitting. If the motor has sat for.around 20 minutes you may need to use the cold start procedure. anything less you may just need either throttle or choke only. Or a combination of the 2. Take.your motor out and learn to.start it.
 
This forum is pretty good at helping you diagnose and fix problems on your own if you are willing to get your hands dirty. If you were to detail the issues with your outboard motor you might be surprised how much value you would get from free advice. Some of the gentlemen here have decades of experience.
 
If it's a boat, boat motor, motorcycle or a Corvette you learn to fix them yourself unless you just like being molested. If I were filthy rich I wouldn't take one of either of those to a "professional" to be repaired and I've owned several of each.

Corvette's are the worst. If you go to a shop or dealership you're better off throwing your wallet and checkbook in ahead of you so they don't tear your pants off like wild dogs getting to them.
 
Rook66 said:
If it's a boat, boat motor, motorcycle or a Corvette you learn to fix them yourself unless you just like being molested. If I were filthy rich I wouldn't take one of either of those to a "professional" to be repaired and I've owned several of each.

Corvette's are the worst. If you go to a shop or dealership you're better off throwing your wallet and checkbook in ahead of you so they don't tear your pants off like wild dogs getting to them.
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Boo friggin hoo. If your motorcycle,corvette, or boat costs to much to fix maybe you should not own them.
I bet when you go to work you don't say ,gee I wish the company charged less for my time. Because I feel I should get paid less for my experience!! You might not be so mouthy if you knew what insurance costs are. Or what an electric bill, gas bill or workmans comp costs. Not to mention your wages or 401k contributions.
 
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You guys are a blast.....money often trumps virtuosity, but some professionals are honest and virtuous. They do repairs for customers just like it's their very own equipment. That's the way I live......perhaps the reason why I would not happily work with or for most shops. Mr. Scott is quite correct in many respects. All thing considered, there are so many expenses to run a shop with employees. I know, I owned and managed a machine shop for 2 years, employing 8 people. Hard time sleeping, big pressures, nasty customers, highly skilled Machinists with either drinking or sycological challenges. It's tough, had to "bail out". I work alone, play safe, win or loose, remain honest and virtuous. Stupid....yes, but check my reviews. Raquel and Tim's Timber Duluth MN. Gotta love your work and love your clients.
 
When i was studying for my engine attendant certificate, long time ago, my mentors where both senior chief engineers in maritime world. They always said: when we are doing repairs, we should never leave any tracks on the engine. And during engine works, we should keep our table clean as operating room in hospital. From my mentors, i really learned all skills, but also often forget thing; safety during engine works. By keeping the working area clean and tools good order, is safety.
I really bow deep, for all mechanics.
 
sharkin95 said:
I have owned all I/O most of my life when it comes to O/B kinda get lost with the process of starting and restarting the engine. looking for that old timer who has worked on Johnson / Evinrude most of his life...which I know is getting harder to find
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No worries. I was the opposite, I had always owned O/B motors and when I got my I/O was baffled why an engine with an electric fuel pump was so hard to start. Then I later learned how to first go full throttle twice before trying to start and voila, it starts like a dream every time.

As FlyingScott mentioned, the start procedure on your engine is pretty easy. A 2001 115 should have the Fast Start feature. If your controls are side mount you will have a warm up lever and you can lift it about 1/4 of the way prior to starting. If you have flush mount controls you'll push in the center button on the arm then move the throttle lever to the first detent or about 1/4.

Now, to start the engine turn the key to the start position and push in simultaneously. When it fires release the key. When you press in on the key it activates the fuel primer solenoid which squirts fuel directly into the intake to richen the mixture. It's pretty much the same thing as making 2 sweeps of the throttle on the I/O which is squirting fuel directly in the carb from the accelerator pump.

Once the engine starts it should idle slightly higher than normal until operating engine temp is reached and then it will idle down to normal. As long as the engine is warm you should NOT need to use the fuel primer to start again. However, it is possible that if you stop and fish for an hour the engine will go cold and might need the primer again. In the case of a 'luke warm' engine, first try to start without the primer. If it doesn't fire within a couple of seconds of cranking push in the primer to richen it a bit.

If you find the engine is not starting easily then you will need to either diagnose the issue or find a shop. I can't be of any help suggesting a shop in your area. Since you're right on the coast there has to be some kind of reputable shop around. Not every shop are manned by crooks trying to steal your money, but some are definitely better than others. As Scott mentioned, either Google shops and look at their reviews or you could also go to the marina and ask around as a place to start.

KJ
 
Evinrude, you have a good way with words, the English language can be a real mess. Great advice.....assemble like your in an operating room. If your patient gets sick and dies, it's your own damn fault.....not somebody in your "supervision". It's all about responsibility. Kevin, great job in covering starting proceedures and this subject in discussion. Mr. Scott can be abrupt, but he is a valued contributor.....in my opinion, here on the forum.
 
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