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Johnson just die

dofunny

Member
Hello to All
I have a 115 Jo


Hello to All
I have a 115 Johnson
Hydro-Electric drive
Model: 115ESL70D
Serial: J3342448


Yesterday I started the engine and it ran just fine. Went back and started it again about a hour later and no problem. Unit today I started the engine and it ran fine until it shut off. Took my spark test and there was no spark at the plug. The guy I got the engine from said he was in the water with it and it just died. I need some help with touble shooting.
 
"(Voltage Drop To Battery

"(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)

On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.

When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
********************
(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
(J. Reeves)

Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.

When time permits, visit my store (copy/paste) at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
I found out today that I don&#

I found out today that I don't have sparks on #2 Cylinder and #4 cylinder
#1 cylinder has a pretty sharp blue spark. #3 has a orange looking spark. But the other day it started up and ran fine with no problem.

I have a 115 Johnson
Hydro-Electric drive
Model: 115ESL70D
Serial: J3342448

I have a 1978 Johnson 70 hp
Model: 70EL78C
I been having problem with getting it up to 4000 rpm.I can get it up to 1800 to 2100 rpm. I took the carbs. off and clean them the best I could. Took the boat to the river and that baby was running good. Two days later went to the river and back to the 1800 to 2100 rpm. So I change the plug and now the bottom plug will not tighten up. How can I fix that plug.
 
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