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Johnson HD25 wonbt start

youngster

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I'm working on a Johnson H

I'm working on a Johnson HD-25 2.5 hp. I rebuilt the ignition system and am getting good spark to both plugs. I have also thoroughly cleaned the carberator(several times!). I don't think I'm getting enough gas(vapor) to the plugs. After craking numerous times I pull the plugs and they are dry. I'm opening the High and Low speed needles the recommended 3/4 turn before starting. Once in a while it will start and run for about 15 seconds before quitting.

Does anyone have any experience with this motor. I would welcome any and all input/suggestions etc.
 
"I'm assuming that you hav

"I'm assuming that you have a primer bulb that goes to your gas tank, are you making sure that is primed. If so then make sure the gas hoses that go to the engine under the cover are connected and not rotten or clogged."
 
"If it does have a primer bulb

"If it does have a primer bulb then do as Lee suggests.

I thought perhaps that 2.5 has an integral tank.

If so make sure you have an uninterrupted fuel flow to the carb. There may be a filter in the tank that's blocked.

Do not know where you got the 3/4 turn info from but general advice is that the high speed mixture needle is open 1 turn and the idle one 1.5 turns. (might be different I concede on such an old one) and start on full choke

Sure you got the float valve set up correctly when you reassembled the carb?

Did you poke a soft wire through the carb jets to get them properly clean. No good just waving a can of carb cleaner in their direction.

When you get it running set the mixture needles as described by Joe Reeves:

<blockquote> (Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.</blockquote>"
 
"Yes, this is an old one '

"Yes, this is an old one '46-'50 with a built in tank. I'm definitely getting gas to the carb from the tank but not, it seems, from the carb to the combustion chamber. I got the 3/4 turn info from the original documentation but think I'm going to try opening wider. I have used the n/v adjustment procedure you attached on a '55 Johnson 5.5 hp and it worked fine.

This motor has a primer plunger on the top that pumps fuel through a tube to the "slow speed mixing chamber" which is above the carburetor in the head behind the pistons. There might be something clogged in there but I'll have to tear it apart to see.

Thank you both for your input."
 
What kind of compression readi

What kind of compression readings do you have on this?
 
I admit that I have not used a

I admit that I have not used a compression tester on the cylinders (I don't own one). Others have told me that as long as I can feel strong suction i.e. with my thumb when cranking it should be ok. I have been wondering about that although it does seem to have strong suction. Do you know what the compression numbers should be?

I forgot to mention that the leather washers in the primer plunger are worn and gas blows past them and out of the carb when I prime. I just made some new leather washers and hope they will fix that problem.

Any suggestions?
 
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