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Johnson 4hp

I-never had an issue with the lifting arm on points wearing down because i always just replace the points. Get a new wick and fresh grease is important tho. Yes with the points almost closed you tighten the screw almost snug and turn the cam to open the points. Once you get the gap correct you hold the adjuster with one screwdriver and tighten the holding screw tight. Double check the gap then move on to the other set.
 
You tighten the hold down screw.----Then use the cam screw to adjust the gap.----That is why the hold down screw has that washer.----That is a fact !
 
I was wondering if anyone was going to say anything. racer one has it right. If your points hold down screw has the wave washer under it (star washer is for condenser) then just tighten the screw down. Use your eccentric screw to adjust points setting. (Tip! Screw in the adjuster (eccentric) all the way & back out one turn). Then put your new point sets in.
I hate to mention names, but Sierra has quality issues with their coils lining up on the mag plates at the moment. Their points have always been suspect for alignment? Been doing this for over 45 yrs now & counting. I have given up on them for these parts. I use others things made by them.
 
Just checked the cam and the key they are both worn and have play. Have a new key for the flywheel. Going to throw the rest of the stuff away. Replace the seal that leaks may as well put a new bearing in well I have everything apart. Get rid of points and condensers. Replace coils and new ignition system
 
Actually trying 6 of those right now. They line up perfectly. Can't say about longevity yet, but for $10ea & free shipping hard to beat. I don't run my old antiques that much so I'll give them a try for now, but not cheap points. OEM all the way there. They are on BO at the moment unfortunately. More on the way!

Dan in TN
 
LumleyRick said:
Just checked the cam and the key they are both worn and have play. Have a new key for the flywheel. Going to throw the rest of the stuff away. Replace the seal that leaks may as well put a new bearing in well I have everything apart. Get rid of points and condensers. Replace coils and new ignition system
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Now you will sleep very soundly. :) And . . . won't get stuck two miles from the boat launch.

Bill
 
fdrgator said:
So the coils were cracked? You are just spinning your wheels until you replace them---which you said you will.
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My 1960 H.P. coils were cracked also. I think they used polyester resin for insulation back then. BRP bailed me out with new coils. Funny thing was that the 1960 coils worked fine. I was just worried that chunks of insulation material would flake off and get into my magneto.

Bill
 
LumleyRick said:
Do you like the the modules like nova at all
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I'm not sure if you were responding to my post about my 1960 Johnson or not. I don't know what a "module" is. If it has anything to do with CDI ignitions - no. I have a 2007 Kawasaki Ninja motorcycle with CDI ignition and the plugs are gapped at 0.025". My Johnson plugs are gapped, as you probably know, at 0.030". I would take a magneto ignition on any engine, anytime over electronic ignition.

Bill
 
Electronic ignition is one of the best things that came on the market in my opinion in a very long time. When I was growing up in the 50s and 60s you were lucky to get 15,000 miles on a set of points and if you were driving a muscle car with a double pumper carb with a high lift cam it was not unusual to have to change spark plugs after a weekend of cruising the hamburger joints.

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado that I bought new 15 year ago and it still has the same spark plugs that came in it. They won't need to be changed until around 125,000 miles.

I put over 150,000 miles on my 2008 Mitsubishi Galant before I changed plugs in it and they didn't even need to be changed.

If you could screw a pine knot in the spark plug hole I believe the electronic ignition would fire it.
 
If your talking about those goofy coils that use no points? Why do you need to fix something thats not broke? These engines run just fine with OEM parts for over 70 years confused why you want to change anything?
 
Rook66 said:
Electronic ignition is one of the best things that came on the market in my opinion in a very long time. When I was growing up in the 50s and 60s you were lucky to get 15,000 miles on a set of points and if you were driving a muscle car with a double pumper carb with a high lift cam it was not unusual to have to change spark plugs after a weekend of cruising the hamburger joints.

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado that I bought new 15 year ago and it still has the same spark plugs that came in it. They won't need to be changed until around 125,000 miles.

I put over 150,000 miles on my 2008 Mitsubishi Galant before I changed plugs in it and they didn't even need to be changed.

If you could screw a pine knot in the spark plug hole I believe the electronic ignition would fire it.
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I absolutely agree with you. Until you break down 20 miles from nowhere with a blown thyristor, transistor, diode etc. Hello tow truck. The correct heat range of plug may have prevented your weekend plug change.

It's best to "Reply With Quote". Avoids confusion.

Bill
 
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