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Johnson 40HP oil injection problem

L

leotzian

New member
"Hi to all
I am from Greece

"Hi to all
I am from Greece
I have a 40HP Johnson about 10 years old.My problem is with the oil injection.I use the boat not too much only in summer, so the boat had to stay unused for alot of time. When I try to fire it up, It is imposibble to start, I use the starter, and the choke but nothing alot of smoke and nothing.
The only way to start is to empty the tanks of the carbs. When I empty them both is full of oil.When I empty them, the engine starts at once, and I have no problem when I use the engine leaving it no more than 10 days.It works very well.
The problem is that in my engine it is very difficult to reach and empty the carbs, I have to remove the oil filter, and the oil injection pumb is in front, very difficult...
I am thinking 2 solutions
1) To remove oil injection or
2) To put a valve in the oil line to close the oil when I don't use the engine
I don't know it this helps, you are the experts and is there is any other solution?
If you propose, to remove oil injection, I have to put a new fuel pump ( because this one is oil-fuel ) or I can leave and this one? Is it possible to show me how?
And something else, One year I emptyed the tanks. I didnt started the engine, and in 45 days I tried to fire up it was not starting, and the tanks were again full, ( without starting the engine ), that is why I thinked to cut the oil line when the engine is unused for a lot time

Thank you in advance
Waiting for your answer
Leonidas

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"I assume that the oil tank is

"I assume that the oil tank is lower than the VRO pump on the engine. It would appear that the oil tank is being pressurized by the heat of the day, something of that nature, OR someone is pumping the oil primer bulb which is a no no. That only needs pumping one time and that is when the oil tank is first connected OR a new tank or VRO is installed. Leave the cap cracked somewhat so that pressure cannot build up and see what happens.

If you decide to switch to pre-mix, read on.....

(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)

When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.

Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.

Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.

Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
********************
(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"My friend,
When was the last

"My friend,
When was the last time you remove the VRO and fuel tank flush and clean it ?
Also remove and clean all your fuel line, remember the fuel tank and vro tank both have in line filters please check.
I am thinking you have maybe a clog vent or filter.
Also use a fuel additive to keep your fuel fresh for the extended use.
I will not recommend removing the VRO
See also it can be the simple facts of evaporation, over the extended period the gas evaporates and leaves the carbs and bowl fill with lube oil, you now have a fuel which by itself is not flammable hence hard start.
Here is an old trick if you were using pre-mix, before shutting off the engine disconnect the fuel line the engine will idle and shut it self off this way no pre-mix left in the carbs to fouls things up the next time you are ready.
Keep us posted ..Love feedbacks"
 
"all good advice....however,..

"all good advice....however,..i feel ,that if a person chooses,not to want the hassle,of maintianing the vro system,simply remove it,and mix...oil verification,clean oil tank,new filter about every 2-3 yrs,ck warning signals....i have,rebuilt eng's for myself,both ways..its a matter of choice....however,..if a person stays on a 15 y/o vro,and never services it,cks warning signals etc,..u r flipping a coin,..and playing....w/fire....."
 
"Thank you for the answers
Fo

"Thank you for the answers
For Andrew Mackhrandilal, no my friend I have never cleaned vro and tanks, I will do it now, Perhaps my problem is clocked air ventilation in oil tank and the sun presses oil in the engine even if it is not in use.When I had a engine with mixed fuel oil, I did as you say removing the fuel until shut down, but now with vro I cannot do so.
And another, you say about maintianing the vro system, you mean to remove the pump and clean it?
My problem is only on starting when the engine is off for some monthew, When I fire it up and using it often it works like a charm.
For jwbmarine I had never heard an alarm of the engine, When I use the engine all are working fine.Is it possible I had a vro problem and the engine will working fine?
For Joe Reeves , Yes the oil tank is offcourse lower thank the engine, and your idea of " that the oil tank is being pressurized by the heat of the day " may be right, I will check the oil tank ventilation , as I wrote before one time the carb's tanks were filled with oil again after I have emptyed them without starting the engine, I cannot see any other explanation to this, tank lower than the engine, engine without power and shut off, and the carbs full of oil after a month I had emptyed them..
Your opinion is not to remove vro?

And something else it might help. The oil primer bulb, is very hard, you cannot press it, it is like fuel's when you press it sometimes until it hardens"
 
"Feedback
1)I checked the

"Feedback
1)I checked the oil's tank cap it has a valve that air is coming in but not out. Is that correct?
2) I tried to start the engine first time this year.Look what is happening that drives me to the only solution I have to empty the tanks of the carb's (who are full of oil)
I press the bulb on the fuel line until it hards
Then I push to ignition key to activate primer, I turn the key, the engine starts at once, after 2-3 second the motor begins to stumble, I press the primer again and the motor runs good again, but in 2-3 seconds the same thing occurs, press the primer again, this happens alot of times without the engine runs continiusly without priming. Always prime and prime and prime, but at last the engine stops.
I hope I had explained well for you to understand what is going on. When I empty the carbs tanks, the engine start and continius to run like a charm
Any ideas for this?"
 
"The oil-tank must vent both w

"The oil-tank must vent both ways!
What is happening is that pressure builds up in the oil-tank and pushes clean oil into the fuel pump and then into the carb. next time try to leave the oil tank cap loose when you leave the boat. If problem solved, drill a hole!"
 
"Are you sure for this? These

"Are you sure for this? These is a small hole in the middle under the oil tank cup, On the top there is a small cup. I remove the cup and there is a small hole, I put in my mouth, try to suck or blow air in the hole, The air is coming in the tank not out.There must be a valve inside"
 
"Blocked!
Quite a common prob

"Blocked!
Quite a common problem. It is not a valve that should block for pressure enough to push the oil to the vro, just prevent water and moist from entering but the tank must be able to 'breathe'."
 
"If, other than this oil in ca

"If, other than this oil in carburetor problem, the VRO functions properly (as you indicate), then yes, it is my opinion to leave the VRO system installed."
 
See my friend Joe nailed it in

See my friend Joe nailed it in his very first post ventilation is critical.
 
"So you propose to open the ho

"So you propose to open the hole in the cap of the oil tank so that the air comes in and out, because as I mentioned above in my cap the air only cames in the oil tank and not out, my cap is seemed that it has some sort of valve
And please something else. My oil primer bulb is always very hard to press. ( If I try to press it I can't ) Is this normal? This is from the begining I bought the engine"
 
"I do not think it is a valve,

"I do not think it is a valve, more like a membrane that should allow air venting at a very low pressure. Drill a hole, providing no water may enter into the tank!
The oil prime bulb should always stay hard or you have an air leak somewhere."
 
"My friend Morten Ringvold, Ye

"My friend Morten Ringvold, Yes it is a membrane that allows only the air to come in the tank. That is correct? Morten Ringvold wrote that through the tank the air must pass through both directions.
Because I didn't understand your answer correct, MAKE THE HOLE or not?
My probelen is that the carbs are filling with oil from the tank when the engine is not in use for over 1 month, Perhaps if the sun and the hot causes that, and because the excess pressure doen't come out of the oil tank due to the cap of the tank"
 
"That membrane is originally &

"That membrane is originally 'perforated'. Stretch it slightly, when new, and it breaths. After some years, it gets soaked with oil and gets hard, it gets 'solid'. Drill a hole or leave the cap loose. Just stop the over pressure."
 
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