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Johnson 40 HP 1963 start/run issues

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Pschweizer

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I have 14 ft 1959 Glaspar Sport Lido with a Johnson 1963 40 HP Super Sea Horse is Model # RDSL-25D - thank you for electric starters –as she will not run. I need some help reviving her. After sitting for 4 yrs I went thru the obvious required repairs, but she still will not run for longer then 10 -15 seconds. Changed all the hoses removed and cleaned carb., and it parts, new fuel, fuel pump works, tank hose and bulb are good and holds pressure. Engine compression is great and even.

Plugs are J6C gaped at .030. Plug wires, coils and points in great shape. The ignition components and the engine has only about 50 hrs on everything as the motor was rebuilt about 10 yrs ago by my farther in- law who was an aircraft mechanic (as was I too but on Jets) over 40 yrs and owned his own repair business at Tucson Intl Airport for over 20 yrs- point is he knows how to rebuild engines. She was always run in fresh water.

When she was last out I felt she did not have a lot of power maybe had a spark advance issue? We prepared her for storage & put her away covered and in a shed.
So when I try and start her she try’s to run more so when I advance (turn counter-clock wise) the plate that the points are mounted too (sorry - forgot the part name) I move it almost as far as it will go, just about where it activates a switch that is mounted on the top starboard side of the engine in about the 4 o clock position.

Have any thoughts what to check?

Also need a fuel pump housing as the fuel out connection tube is cracked - but not leaking- any suggestions where I can find one?
Thank you,
Peter
:cool: trying to stay cool in Arizona
 
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What are the compression readings?

With plugs removed, does the spark jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP?

If the above areas are as they should be, I'd suspect you're overlooking something within the carburetor...... did you manually clean out the brass high speed jet that's located in the bottom center portion of the carburetor float chamber?

Plate that points sit upon = Armature Plate.

RDSL-25 Fuel Pump is the old style aluminum pump with a glass bowl and nylon filter. If this is what you have, the part number is 377602 but is no longer available. I have thre of them somewhere here but have lost track of them..... have to hunt them up.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 
Compression is 95 PSI
Spark is good,
Yes I did Clean carb and High speed jet /tube, too al apart and blew out all passages with air. adjusted float inspected needle valve -good and seats properly no leaks

After I set timing an get a rplacement fuel pump I will recheck the initial needle valve setting of 1 1/2 turns

Took off fuel pump it has a PN of 304089 on the back. I assume that it is a newer type because it does not have a bowl.

still need a replacement pump as it has a broken outlet tube- any suggestions where to get one?

Also does any one know where I can get the tool to set the timing I think it is OMC P/N 378966?
 
I went thru everything again this weekend
Compression Top cyl. 98 bottom 91
Removed and re cleaned carb - found son dirt that I had missed in high speed jet inside the carb bowl
Re-set engine timing per book. I borrowed a timing tool from a friends shop that fits over the flywheel shaft and set the points to .020. I also used a continuity test light to double check that the points where set to the marks on the armature plate.
Fuel pump is working, however I still need one to replace this one as it has a broken outlet hose connecter.

The engine still does not want to start?
 
i fell your pain I have an old 85hp evinrude with no spark at the plugs. try unhooking the kill switch ground? maybe can u help me i think yours is black with a yellow tracer on the strip.do u spark at your plugs?
 
I got her to run for about 8 minutes then fuel started to come out the carb intake. I suspect that the float needle valve has stuck open. I will take the carb apart again and see whats causing this.

What I did was 2 things # I removed and cleaned the plugs, and #2 - I added more fuel thus reducing the fuel /oil mixture ratio from 50: 1 down to about 40:1.

I still need help locating a fuel Pump PN 0304089
 
Check the float. If it is cork and red in color get it replaced. If it is cork and yellow in color, brass or plastic you should be OK to run ethanol if you need or want to. The original float is cork and red in color and ethanol eats the coating allowing fuel to soak in and log the cork hence cannot close the needle valve.
 
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 
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