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Johnson 25HP Raeda starter issues

Good day
My 25HP recoil starter, when pulled thru' one or perhaps two compression strokes recoils violently thru' my hand, injuring my fingers, without starting. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Mark
 
I think what you're trying to say is that when you attempt to start the engine, the engine fires against you and in the process is tearing the pull handle out of your hand.

If this is the case, either you have the plug wires crossed, the throttle too far advanced (timing too far advanced), or the flywheel key is slightly sheared.

Let us know what you find.
 
I think what you're trying to say is that when you attempt to start the engine, the engine fires against you and in the process is tearing the pull handle out of your hand.

If this is the case, either you have the plug wires crossed, the throttle too far advanced (timing too far advanced), or the flywheel key is slightly sheared.

Let us know what you find.

Thanks for response Joe. It happened first out on the water after fishing for a few hours when wanting to return home. Slowly turned the motor through a few revs and then she started and ran ok for a few miles to the ramp. Same scenario when flushing on ears at home. Now, 3 weeks later, when attempting to run on flushing ears at home, fires? against me, tearing the rope handle out of my hands. Not perhaps a water condensate issue? Many thanks
 
It sounds like the spark is too soon.

Has the prop ever hit anything while running ? Is the prop blade bent ?

Are you saying. If you SLOWLY & CAREFULLY pull the cord a couple of times .........You can CLEAR OUT whatever is causing the kickbacks ? Then do a normal yank & start it ?
 
Slowly turned the motor through a few revs and then she started and ran ok for a few miles to the ramp. Now, 3 weeks later, when attempting to run on flushing ears at home, fires? against me, tearing the rope handle out of my hands. Not perhaps a water condensate issue? Many thanks

That sounds like the timing advance, that is the armature plate under the flywheel is somehow sticking in the full spark advance position. Slowly turning the engine over would prevent the ignition from engaging BUT it most likely would cause the armature place to slowly return to the normal (retarded) position.

Before cranking the engine over with the manual starter, observe what position that armature plate is in.
 
Just for elimination of a possible problem. When the engin stops & COMPLETLY COOLS DOWN . remove & check the sparkplugs for water on them. Also if they look super clean. Like they had been pressure washed. Or are starting to rust up a little.
 
That sounds like the timing advance, that is the armature plate under the flywheel is somehow sticking in the full spark advance position. Slowly turning the engine over would prevent the ignition from engaging BUT it most likely would cause the armature place to slowly return to the normal (retarded) position.

Before cranking the engine over with the manual starter, observe what position that armature plate is in.
Thanks again Joe. Removed and checked spark plugs, initial butterfly movement is synchronised to timing marks and moved timer base thru' full movement while in gear, which appeared to be moving freely. Reconnected fuel, primed and it started with no issues after two pulls. (Was pretty nervous pulling the rope). Stopped the motor and restarted without problems. Going to replace the (months old) fuel at the weekend and run up again. Thanks again for your assistance. I was way off track with my troubleshooting.
Regards
Mark
 
Just for elimination of a possible problem. When the engin stops & COMPLETLY COOLS DOWN . remove & check the sparkplugs for water on them. Also if they look super clean. Like they had been pressure washed. Or are starting to rust up a little.
Thanks for your input Cyclops. These issues checked out ok.
Regards
Mark
 
Have to go to Joes post #2 & check for a moving / shifting keyway inside the flywheel.

Use the correct type of puller........The 1 that uses the 3 threaded holes in the flywheel. If it has those pulling holes.
 
Have to go to Joes post #2 & check for a moving / shifting keyway inside the flywheel.

Use the correct type of puller........The 1 that uses the 3 threaded holes in the flywheel. If it has those pulling holes.
Yeah, intend to do that at the weekend. I have a fabricated 3 hole puller for that. cheers
 
Pulled flywheel - woodruff key and keyway in good order. Replaced and retorqued flywheel, drained old fuel and started no problem with fresh fuel. I'm guessing Joe's version of temporary problem with armature plate may have been cause of issues? Thanks again for all assistance. This site's posters are of such great help.
 
I have used very old fuel & never had kickbacks. I tink working on the flywheel & touching something to do with the advance loosened up to work correctly.
 
Thanks Cyclops. What I didn't mention was the fact that I also changed the timer-base centering bearing plate as it had quite significant wear in it. So yes, did a thorough check and molyslip lubrication on these moving parts. Cheers for your input
 
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