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Johnson 2 HP Wont start

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mscottb

New member
I have a 1980 something outboard I am having trouble getting started. I wonder if anyone here can give me some help?
I have rebuilt the carb, replaced the reeds, replaced the points and condenser. There was a lot of salt in the cylinder hear water passages, which I cleaned out and replaced the head gasket. the ring appear to be not stuck, and I have soaked them down with Marvin's Mystery Oil for awhile now. There does not seem to be any fuel getting to the plug, and a SMALL shot of ether doesn't help. I am wondering if there is enough compression (vacuum) to suck the fuel out of the carb? I can hold my thumb over the spark plug hole without it being blown off. there is a good spark.
any ideas?
thanks in advance for any help
Scott
 
mscottb said:
I have a 1980 something outboard I am having trouble getting started. I wonder if anyone here can give me some help?
I have rebuilt the carb, replaced the reeds, replaced the points and condenser. There was a lot of salt in the cylinder hear water passages, which I cleaned out and replaced the head gasket. the ring appear to be not stuck, and I have soaked them down with Marvin's Mystery Oil for awhile now. There does not seem to be any fuel getting to the plug, and a SMALL shot of ether doesn't help. I am wondering if there is enough compression (vacuum) to suck the fuel out of the carb? I can hold my thumb over the spark plug hole without it being blown off. there is a good spark.
any ideas?
thanks in advance for any help
Scott
Click to expand...

you really need to do a PROPER compression test . the ol finger over the plug hole deal wont cut it.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1982&hp=2&model=E2RCNE
1982 evinrude 2hp. These motors are so simple and can be the most difficult to troubleshoot. Did you pull the flywheel? All it takes is a little crease in the woodruff key to keep it from running, it is real important to tighten the flywheel nut to spec. 20-25 ft lbs or 240-300 inch lbs. There is only a little over 2.5 cubic inch displacement dont expect high compression numbers. It may be worth it at this time to reseal the whole motor while your waiting for weather to clear up. Did you surface the head before you installed the new gasket? With a sheet of 220 grit on a glass table lightly work it in a figure 8 pattern until it all shines the same and pull the head down slow to 60-80 inch lbs.
Click to expand...
OK I did not resurface the head, just cleaned the salt build up and scraped it down. Will remove and start over, hope I can reuse the gasket. I did remove the fly to replace the points did not inspect the woodruff key much.
One other problem I have is a sticking pull start rope, I have lubed it and replaced the rope. Should I just wind it up tighter?
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-07..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item2a4bfd7e42&vxp=mtr
I have recently restored two of these motors and a common issue is the water pump stops working after the engine has run for a bit. This kit can be a pain to install but it cures the overheating issue. Otherwise you need to replace the gearcase to get the OEM impeller to work. My theory is the head gets warped and due to the small displacement a tiny leak makes a big difference in compression. It should blow your finger out of the spark plug hole.
Click to expand...
OK I have replaced the impeller and yes it is a PIA to do. The compression does NOT blow the finger off, so I think there is low compression, I did reseal all the other openings.
 
.....really? still doing the " finger on the plug hole" for a compression test???? you could be wasting time and money beating a dead horse. plz do a proper compression test and post back. geez, uap or autozone will lend you a tester for a small refundable deposit ! if your little motor wont hit 60 psi, it may not be worth any more than its parts value or scrap weight. jmo
 
nwcove said:
.....really? still doing the " finger on the plug hole" for a compression test???? you could be wasting time and money beating a dead horse. plz do a proper compression test and post back. geez, uap or autozone will lend you a tester for a small refundable deposit ! if your little motor wont hit 60 psi, it may not be worth any more than its parts value or scrap weight. jmo
Click to expand...

OK I got a gauge on checked the psi of the cylinder after resurfacing the head, I get 32 lb psi with a shot of oil in the cyl. re torquing the head caused me to break one of the head bolts (20 lbs) so now the question is... are the head bolts "special" or will a normal 1/4 inch bolt work? I see at marineEngine.com that the bolts go for 4.99 each. leads me to believe they are indeed "special". am ready and willing to replace the ring if it comes to that.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
You can probably just get some flange bolts at the hardware store and just replace all four the same. If you can get grade 8 all the better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-20-x-5-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7d6e3bb3&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...


ok I replaced all 4 bolts with grade 8, redid the points gap, check the fly wheel key, resurfaced the head and cylinder face with 220 grit paper, checked with a straight edge, all good!
I get 32 psi as a compression ( what is the correct psi), still no start. oh and I submerged the lower unit this time. nice healthy blue spark way out to over a 1/4 inch. so do I replace the rings with a new standard set? NEVER SAY DIE!
scott
 
so now you need to fix the broken head bolt and re test compression, dont add oil tho, that will give a false reading.

edit: you will be lucky to get a puff of smoke at 32 psi, thats way to low !!!
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
I just checked the compression on my 1980 2hp at 75psi. I did deglaze the cylinder and install new rings last year and it has been sitting all winter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Powe...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item41880fa873
If the cylinder wall is just glazed over run a hone in and out to get a nice cross hatch and get a set of standard rings. You can get it bored over .030. Be sure and replace the crankshaft seals
Click to expand...

I did put fuel into the cylinder and I also tried squirting the carb with fuel. I will now try to replace the rings and the cylinder. i will try to do the crankshaft seals as well.
when I checked the compression before I did not get any reading until I put oil in so that is a sure sign of worn rings.
thanks for all your help everyone ;)
scott
 
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