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Johnson 1983 7.5 hp

S

sixxeruk

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"Hello, I have just aquired an 83 Johnson 7.5hp, I have tried to look up model no' (J8balcta) but can't find it any where, I want this motor for an auxillary on my Welcraft as the 4hp I have struggled to bring here in the other day when main engine went on the sick, I plan to keep 4hp for tender/fun and us 7.5 as aux, I suspect, by looking at leg/gearbox, she is a saildrive -xl shaft, and it does not seem able to latch/lock up when not in use, motor runs nice and is in quite good condition, but I want to fit a new impeller and perhaps new decals, can anyone tell me anything about this engine"
 
"Also forgot to enquire, would

"Also forgot to enquire, would it be feasable to shorten leg back to standard long shaft or should I move it on and just look for another one, this would be a shame as engine is good.

Regards

Nick."
 
"I have found that model numbe

"I have found that model number listed.

'BA'indicates a ropes start model with an AC lighting coil ( with a funny three pin socket to connect too)and I suspect also that it is Belgium made ... common for engines in the UK (my 6hp is)
The sail version should have a rectifier fitted to give DC output for battery charging.

'L' normally means long shaft ie 20" not extra long (25") which is 'X'

A sail version would normally have 'S' in the model number and would be J8SRLCT but it does appear that the sail version would be the equivalent of a XL (25") model with the 10" extension

The sail versions have two AV plates with the exhaust outlet between them, the normal outlet behind the prop being plugged

Measuring from the transom top to just above the AV plate above the prop will tell you if its a 20" or 25" model. but just looking at the extension youll know if that a 5" extension for a 20" shaft or a 10" extension for a 25" shaft

A sail model would have a 9¼ x 6½ prop compared with a standard 8½ x 9 but the finer pitch might suit your needs anyway if you wont be getting up on the plane.

There is no prop to support it in the tilted position (introduced I think in 1984 ... at least mine has a prop) but non sail versions should have shallow water drive facility.

It is feasible to shorten them. Remove the 5" (or 10" extension whichever you have), change the drive shaft and the shift rod for the standard parts and cut 5" (or 10") off the water tube and remove the plug from the normal exhaust outlet if it is the sail version

Trouble is the cost $235 US and $107 US respectively for drive shaft and shift rod. God knows how much they will be in rip off Britain.

More sensible probably to sell it and buy the engine you need unless you can find a standard model being broken for parts.

Sorry the above got a bit disjointed as I whent back and forth over it to add stuff. Hope it makes sense to you"
 
"Cheers VicS, Where did you fi

"Cheers VicS, Where did you find the model no'
listed, I looked everywhere, I probably will change it, it definately is 25" as you say you can easily tell, I did try to post a pic, but it got bombed off, this engine purrs so will be shame to let it go, but as an aux, I need it up and out of the way, not trailing in water, so need to "securely" lock up and it does not appear to have this facility, on the other hand I might keep an eye open for a dead motor I can rob for parts, do you know if later transom/leg clamps are interchangable with this motor?
Regards
Nick."
 
"It's in the lists at [url

"It's in the lists at http://www.skoterskroten.com/img/arsmodellstabell.pdf
http://web.archive.org/web/20011207012241/www.evinrude.com/docktalk/modref/model yr.html
and in Ken Cook's Outboardbooks.com list of manuals

Not, I must admit, in the Johnson Evinrude parts lists but that's not uncommon for Belgium built models ... they may have been produced just for the European market and not imported into the US .. I don't know.

Quite surprised actually that that motor is a 25" model. The number you quote would only indicate that it was a 20" model.

Pretty sure later steering swivel brackets etc will fit because the part number for the 1984 model is listed as an alternative for the '83 but just what years are the same beyond 84 is for you to investigate in the parts lists at http://shop.evinrude.com/

BTW users of the YBW.com boating forums in the Uk have found Wills Marine in Kingsbridge good for Johnson/Evinrude parts. Outboards Direct (aka Oakley Marine) in Brighton have also come up trumps in the past"
 
I agree with Vic on the transl

I agree with Vic on the translation how ever I think that the model number might be off a bit as that model does not appear to have any part pix support it
but..
if I look closely at the numbers I see J8SRCTA
I think that the b is a S and the A is a R
 
"<font size=""-2"">Quote </fon

"<font size=""-2"">Quote </font>
I think that the b is a S and the A is a R

You could be right. People do often misread them! It would explain the 25" shaft but the number as quoted does appear in the lists I mentioned.
I have found on occasions that the numbers of engines built in Belgium, presumably for the European market don't appear in the official parts lists on the US websites

Its academic anyway. Whatever it is it can be converted to a standard shaft model given the correct drive shaft and shift rod.

A later steering swivel assembly and transom bracket could be fitted to gain a tilt prop and with a modicum of workshop skill I'd guess that a prop could even be fitted to the existing assembly.

All in all I think I'd look out for a decent standard shaft model and flog this one again."
 
"Well chaps, I have just been

"Well chaps, I have just been out to measure it and I measured 23" (cold and wet out there), I have looked at the link VicS attached and there is a third alternative - 22.5" which is stated as "Y = special", any thoughts what this would have been for? If I could attach a pic I would! I might have a look at cobbling up a tilt lock as this engine is so good, and my luck, I'd swap it for a dog.

Regards

Nick."
 
"well it is possible but check

"well it is possible but check this image out

376261.png"" alt=""
 
"Maybe misled you a bit. So I

"Maybe misled you a bit. So I have been out in my dry warm(ish) workshop with camera and tape measure.

This then is a 508mm / 20" model.
It is actually 1984 6hp Yachtwin (ie sail version) hence the exhaust outlet indicated by the pencil and the extra cavitation plate immediatey above it.
(It has to be mounted as though it were a 15" model but the idea is that the prop is 5" deeper than a standard model would be.)

I reckon from what you say you have an ordinary 20" model. That's what the model number indicates. (sail versions of yours were 25" I think, as they were for the later 8hp)

Loaded photo to Photobucket to get it a decent size.

See http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/Vic43/Forums%202010/DSCF0759.jpg"

I hope that clears it all up."
 
"Sorted!!! I measured to the b

"Sorted!!! I measured to the bottom cavitation plate,I have an additional one as well, which was 22.5 and is on yours also, so it is a standard long shaft (20") after all, the 20" is to the top cavitation plate, just have to sort tilt lock now. and some tidy weather.

Many thanks guy's

Nick."
 
thats great news and if that s

thats great news and if that sorts the model number out for ya we have all the parts available you would need for that model
 
"<font size=""-2"">Quote</font

"<font size=""-2"">Quote</font>
<font color=""119911""> we have all the parts available you would need for that model </font>

But according to your website you do not ship to the UK and its too far to travel to you.

Hence the names of two UK suppliers posted earlier.

I want the carrying handle for mine!"
 
"well Vic we canto ship your r

"well Vic we canto ship your right but if you know any one in the US or you can contact a broker we can ship it to them and then they can ship it to you

we actually do that quite often."
 
"Hello Chaps, sorry to be a pa

"Hello Chaps, sorry to be a pain, I have flushed the cooling system and now have a resonable "tell tail" spout of water, when I ran it up in a tank this morning I noticed the cylinder head was getting very hot, paint starting to smoke, I shut it off immediatly, it was too hot to touch, even though I had a good spout of water, would this indicate a blockage in the water path in the cylinder head or is a single path around engine. It is original engine paint, not newly painted, do the cylinder heads run that hot or do I need to whip the head off and have a look, or could it be something else? Engine started and ran nice, and oh, by the way, as much as it pains me to admit it, it does have a tilt lock, should have looked a bit better - Duh!

What would be the normal operating temp?, is there a flow rate for coolong system or is it just by eye?

Nick."
 
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