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Johnson 115 - voltage drop, not starting, trim not working, gauges not working

J

John316

New member
I have a Johnson 115. I was out fishing, moving from spot to spot, then it wouldn't start. Completely, totally dead. Not even the gauges came on.

FIRST THEORY was the key switch, since I had recently replaced it. Attempts to hotwire it failed, but I did discover that using a new 12volt wire from the battery, and touching this to the accessory wire, the gauges work fine. I also noticed the red (battery) wire shows a voltage drop when the key was turned on.
THEORY TWO was a wiring problem but I didn't know how to trace it down.
THEORY THREE - Starter or solenoid. I ran a direct wire from the battery to the small activator post on the solenoid and it clicks. With difficulty, I removed the starter and solenoid, which led me to this forum. I took it to the shop and asked him if he would test it. He didn't test it, rather he replaced the brushes. Oh well, at least I've eliminated that as a source of the problem.
I installed it and I still have the same issue. I took it out, and attached just the wires but the starter is not attached to the flywheel, thinking maybe it was stuck somehow. It didn’t help. When I attach jumper cables to the battery side post on the solenoid, and touch the solenoid activator post with my direct-from-battery wire it spins the starter. Without the jumper cables, nothing, except that I can touch the solenoid activator post with the direct-from-battery wire and it clicks.
VOLTAGES: With the jumper cables-12.5 Without the cables, it is around 10volts. (it fluctuates between 9.5 and 10.2) This is on the battery side of the solenoid. The funny thing is, if I unplug the main fuse to the motor, it instantly jumps to 12.5! Also, I noticed that the trim buttons on the side of the motor are not working.
THEORY FOUR - I should just drown myself! Anyone have any ideas?
 
Are both ends of the main battery wires clean and free of oxidation? Ha....dont do that! 🥺
Hello Mr. Scott.
 
As posted in #2 above, check short glass 20amp fuse in push together rubber fuse holder.
Solenoid & starter have nothing to do with instrument power or trim.
 
Sounds like bad wires or connections from battery to engine.
I think I would disconnect the red main harness plug and then check voltage again to rule out a short in the control box wiring as well.
Not too long ago I had a short in the red main harness plug- not saying it is definitely your issue but a possibility
 
Thank you @flyingscott @timguy @Droid @R_P. I'm gonna bring the wife and see if together we can find that glass fuse or any other fuses. The battery is fairly new, fully charged, and I also added a lithium battery booster so there is plenty of juice. The cables are clean on both ends but the rubber is old-looking in the middle due to the sun. I think I will replace them just to see if that helps. Not sure how to measure to see what awg they are. (?) Also @R_P, I don't know what you mean by the main red harness plug. My setup is pretty simple, the battery cables bolt down right to the battery terminal, then run about 6 feet into the motor housing and connect to the starter and solenoid. Will report back. Thank you!
 
Success! I found the glass fuses. There were 4 of them, all coming off wires from the red batter terminal. I checked all of them and they were good. At the same time, my wife was poking around, wiggling wires, and when she pressed the trim button the trim motor activated! Just for a second. We went back to where I had been checking fuses and pushed the battery terminals and found they weren't fully tight. After tightening it works fine. About 2 years ago I installed a new battery and a blade-type kill switch. I greased the terminals well with dielectric gell. Since the terminals are slightly tapered, they tend to want to slide up when tightened. My friend told me to clean all that grease off, tighten the terminals, and then apply grease on top. Any thoughts on this? And thanks again for your help.
 
You never stated the model year of your motor & I assumed conventional 2 stroke. And Johnson must be 2005 or prior.

Good that it is fixed BUT 4 glass fuses at the battery are not the ones that power the engine.

Going on my assumption, you still have 1 glass fuse in the engine harness INSIDE the engine cowl. Find it and be sure to have a spare for that time in the future when it could leave you dead in the water.

If I recall correctly, 4 stokes used ATM plastic push in fuses in or near the electric distribution box.
 
John316 said:
I greased the terminals well with dielectric gell. Since the terminals are slightly tapered, they tend to want My friend told me to clean all that grease off, tighten the terminals, and then apply grease on top. Any thoughts on this? And thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...
He is correct. Di-electric grease is an INSULATOR, not a conductor. You do not put it on the surfaces that need to conduct. It’s for preventing corrosion on exposed outer surfaces of terminals.
 
Edchris177 said:
He is correct. Di-electric grease is an INSULATOR, not a conductor. You do not put it on the surfaces that need to conduct. It’s for preventing corrosion on exposed outer surfaces of terminals.
Click to expand...
Droid said:
You never stated the model year of your motor & I assumed conventional 2 stroke. And Johnson must be 2005 or prior.

Good that it is fixed BUT 4 glass fuses at the battery are not the ones that power the engine.

Going on my assumption, you still have 1 glass fuse in the engine harness INSIDE the engine cowl. Find it and be sure to have a spare for that time in the future when it could leave you dead in the water.

If I recall correctly, 4 stokes used ATM plastic push in fuses in or near the electric distribution box.
Click to expand...
The boat is a 1998, so I'm assuming the motor is as well. I did find the fuse inside the engine cowl, and checked it early on. It is a yellow plastic 20amp fuse and the holder has a spare which is 30 amp.
 
I have a similar problem. Engine starter will not engage. Trim works fine & instruments ok.
When I turn the key to start, I hear the click and the starter spins but does not engage to flywheel.
I checked battery connections and even swapped batteries, even hooked up charger.
No one wants to work on a Gen2 Evenrude. What's Up?
JDin Lindale
 
More info: Outboard model E115DSLAFM, s/n 05564759,
year not shown on decal. Nearly new, hardly used, maybe 20 hours total.
Bought in So Cal, about 2018 Now in Texas.
JD in Lindale
 
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