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Joe Me Again 69 85hp Evinrude

J

Joseph Staley

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" Joe:
I took the boat out ye


" Joe:
I took the boat out yesterday after replacing the spark plugs and using the new 50:1 gas/oil ratio. The engine ran fine for the first couple of minutes before having the same problem again. The s/plugs were black again also. So I am pretty confident that the problem is the coil. I reread your last post about how to get to the coil... however I am a little confused still. Plus, once I get there, what do I look for to determine if it has gone bad. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks,
Joseph "
 
"Joseph... Once you have the c

"Joseph... Once you have the coil off, unless you have a coil testing device, you will need to take it to whatever dealer you were going to take your engine to. It would be a good idea to call them first to see if they are capable of testing the coil off the engine. (do they have the proper equipment)? If they don't, I don't see how they could test the coil regardless.

A test you could do with an ohm meter is to check the continuity of the coil, as follows. Set the ohm meter to high ohms.

1 - Connect one lead to the screw in terminal that you unscrewed from the distributor cap. Connect the other lead to the coil small black ground wire... you should get a reading. If not, check that large black screw in wire for continuity (unscrew it from the coil). If that wire is okay but you obtained no reading through the coil, replace the coil.

2 - With one lead connected to the screw in terminal end as above or to the pointed prong within the coil where the wire enters the coil, connect the other end of the ohm meter to the wire that was attached to the terminal block that went to the p/pack (most likely a blue wire). You should get a reading. If you do not get a reading (assuming that the large black wire is okay), replace the coil.

The reasoning pertaining to the continuity check is that if you do not obtain a reading whrough the coil with the ohm meter, there is a break in the primary to secondary wiring within the coil, in which case it would be impossible for the coil to fire properly.... the spark would be forced to jump a gap within the coil (not good)!

On your engine, the setup under the flywheel incorporates a rotor and distributor cap.. a few areas whereas a spark must jump a gap,but it does not sound like you have a problem there. From what you've had to say, I suspect the coil also.

If this is indeed your problem, and should you have trouble locating the coil OMC #580740 which is superceeded up to #582382 that lists for approx $40.00, I do have one (new) left in stock that I could ship for $30.00.

Joe
"
 
"Joe:
I called two boat shops


"Joe:
I called two boat shops today and by the time they actually got around to testing the coil it was going to cost about $25 just for the time to test it. So I would much rather just order the coil from you if you would let me know how to do such. (As long as it is can be installed without rare tools etc.. My email address is [email protected]. The quicker the better. Thank you for all your help and I hope that this will fix the problem.
Joseph"
 
"Joseph.... I sincerely hope t

"Joseph.... I sincerely hope that it cures your problem also. I'll contact you with my home address shortly, and get set up to have this coil shipped to you.

Joe
"
 
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