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Jet sizes for 1983 evinrude 75hp

D

Dski

New member
I have a 1983 75hp with the fixed jets. It has a #67 low speed jet and a #59 intermediate jet.
Are these the correct sizes? I have a service manual for the 60 thru 70 models which doesn't have
any info on the jet sizes.
 
The high speed jet is in the float bowl #56
The intermediate jet behind the plug is #59
It shows the low speed has a adjustable needle what is the model number of your motor? Are you running the motor above 2500 ft elevation?
 
Those are the right jets for a 1982 75hp the high speed jet in the float bowl should be #56D If you need to adjust for elevation for every 2500 ft you use two jet sizes smaller for fuel jets and two sizes larger for air jets.
 
Thanks for the replies. The model # is E75TRLCTE. The elevation I'm at is 1880'. I didn't see any marking on the high speed jet to determine its size. But all the jets are fixed jets. I thought maybe the low speed or intermediate jets have been changed.
 
They are the right jets for a 1982 75hp possibly your motor was a early built 1983 they just used the last of the 1982 stock. Take a magnifying glass to the flats on the high speed jet the number should be there. 56D
 
I'm having issues with it hesitating or stalling when accelerating. It will run wide open fine. It will idle, but sometimes it will stall going into gear. I've rebuilt all the carbs, set the float level, new gas tank and all fuel lines, rebuilt the fuel pump, new correct plugs which will jump a gap, checked the compression which is ok, and replaced the power pack. I recently did a link and sync which helped a lot, but if I don't accelerate slowly it will still stall. My tach isn't working so I guessed at my idle speed. Just trying to get it running right.��
 
What are the compression numbers? Did you surface the carb flanges and install new gaskets? Did you pull the soft plugs (welsh plugs) on the carbs when you rebuilt them? Are the carbs opening at exactly the same time? Is the tach still connected? If it is not working disconnect it to take it out of the loop until you can get a new one. Sounds like your close and missing something simple just keep at it. I do one thing at a time so you know where the problem was. Have you done a cylinder drop test? While idleing pul a plug wire and quickly put it back on the engine should respond the same on all three wires.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
What are the compression numbers? Did you surface the carb flanges and install new gaskets? Did you pull the soft plugs (welsh plugs) on the carbs when you rebuilt them? Are the carbs opening at exactly the same time? Is the tach still connected? If it is not working disconnect it to take it out of the loop until you can get a new one. Sounds like your close and missing something simple just keep at it. I do one thing at a time so you know where the problem was. Have you done a cylinder drop test? While idleing pul a plug wire and quickly put it back on the engine should respond the same on all three wires.
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, the compression numbers were around 112psi(that being the highest) and the rest were within 5psi. I didn't surface the carb flanges, but I did install new gaskets. I did pull the Welch plugs and when I installed the new ones, I put some nail polish on them. I did spray some starting fluid around the carbs while running to see if the idle changed, I didn't notice any change. The tach is still connected. I have not done a cylinder drop test...I'll have to try that next. Is there a good way to pull a plug wire without getting zapped?:confused:
 
A pair of channellocks with good insulation on the handles will work. Get a can of seafoam spray and give it a good decarb and see if you can bring the compression numbers up. On the water at high idle speed when the engine is fully warmed up spray the seafoam in the carbs evenly until it starts smoking real good and quickly shut it down for 1/2 hr. Then start it and immediately take it WOT for about 15 minutes or so and then check the compression again after it has fully cooled down. Is the motor coming up to normal temp? The head should get hot enough you want to pull your hand away but dont have to for a slow count to six. If it stays cool or just warm replace the thermostat it may not be reaching proper operating temp?
 
Dski said:
If I remember correctly, the compression numbers were around 112psi(that being the highest) and the rest were within 5psi. I didn't surface the carb flanges, but I did install new gaskets. I did pull the Welch plugs and when I installed the new ones, I put some nail polish on them. I did spray some starting fluid around the carbs while running to see if the idle changed, I didn't notice any change. The tach is still connected. I have not done a cylinder drop test...I'll have to try that next. Is there a good way to pull a plug wire without getting zapped?:confused:
Click to expand...

For drop cylinder testing, I have had good luck connecting a timing light and testing each spark lead....steady pulse...good spark/Plug...erractic pulse or no pulse...there is your problem....I've had great success...and not been shocked.....yet!!...lol
 
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