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J90tlcte

Fire said:
Thank you I will try that. <-- Proper idle setting procedure.
Click to expand...

Along with the above, being a auto mechanic, I'm sure you're aware of the needed initial trouble shooting procedure that regardless of the problem... one needs to be aware of the exact compression and spark readings. I see above a generality compression reading that varies by 15 psi (not good) but we need a more exact check. Also needed is a spark check as listed below.

Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are numbered as follows:

2....1
4....3 - - - Left is Port - - - Right is Starboard. Nautical terms used as depending on how one faces a object, the position of left/right changes.

Compression: With "all" spark plugs removed, what is the psi reading of all the individual cylinders?

Spark: With "all" spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a air gap of 7/16" on that model with a strong blue lightning flame... a real SNAP! Does it? If not, explain in detail, noting the cylinder affected. Note that the air gap of 7/16" is important.... using neon indicators, spark plugs, etc is a waste of time.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gaped at either .030 (long life) or .040 (strong spark).

Let us know what you find.
 
Hello again, so I was able to check spark on all 4 cylinders and it was good 7/16 jump and a bright snap. Also compression test on all 4 cylinders was 125 PSI across the board. I was able to back down the idle and get the high idle lever to stay down. Unfortunately the weather here in N.Y. TODAY would not allow me to test in the water and only on the hose, which I know they always run fine on the hose.
Going to get it in the water tomorrow hopefully.
Thanks
 
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