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It just won't quit running!

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PaintedStallions

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Hello all. I have this 1976 evinrude 85hp (85963D). I finally got it to run, but when I turn the key off, it still keeps running. I replaced the ignition switch, and it still does the same thing. I thought maybe a ground source was the problem. But every ground that I could find was intact. I am beginning to think that somebody wired the swith wrong before me and might have a magneto wire crossed somewhere. I don't know what wire is what on the switch. I just replaced the switch and wired it as they had before me. Anybody have a switch diagram color-coded that I can see or any ideas?
 
Go to the powerpack / cdi unit ------------Find the terminal with the black / yellow wire---------------add a short wire there.------------------With motor running touch the temporary wire to ground-----------------If motor does not stop, you have a fault internally in the powerpack.-----------------If motor does stop you have a problem in wiring / ignition switch.
 
You said you "finally got it running".

Did you just get this engine? If so maybe someone before you "tried to get it running" too.
As Racerone said, the black/Yellow wire is the one to find. Chances are that the previous mechanic disconnected this wire "Trying to get it running".
 
(Ignition Kill Circuit)
(J. Reeves)

A Black wire (ground) should lead from the powerhead to the powerpack. There will also be a Black/Yellow wire leading from the powerpack to a raised "M" terminal of the ignition switch. To complete the circuit, there will be a Black wire from the other "M" terminal of the ignition switch to ground.
When the key is in the OFF position = The two "M" terminals are connected,. effectively shorting/killing the ignition.
When the key in ON position = The two "M" terminals are not connected and the ignition is engaged.
 
Way cool! You guys are great. I don't even remember seeing a black/yellow wire on the ignition switch come to think of it! I remember seeing 2 white wires screwed to the same terminal and 2 black wires screwed to another terminal. For some reason, whoever, only used 4 terminals on a 6 terminal switch, one of the terminals being the raised "M". That is where the 2 black wires are. Outside of the 2 terminals that I described with the black wires and the white wires, the "B" terminal has a red wire and the "A" terminal has a purple wire. It may have a yellow stripe on it. I can't recall. Yeah man, I believe this wiring job is rigged wrong. I believe the purple and yellow wire is for the choke which is on the accessory terminal. They have it wired from there to a toggle switch that acrivates the electric choke. This is one of the reasons why I asked for a color-coded diagram of the switch showing me what goes where. I will try the black and yellow to ground theory to see if it cuts the engine out. Chances are the power pack may be at fault which may be the reason it is wired the way it is. I did get this boat for nothing about a month ago. It hasn't been started since 1979. It is a 1976 Steury Tri-hull 15.5 feet. Everything looks good as far as wires. None of them are brittle, worn, burnt, and they all have good color, nothing faded. The engine is very clean, practically and oil grease free. I took the carbs off first thing to clean them and was surprized to see how cleaned they were after all these years! The only thing with the engine is, is that when it idles, it does the jerking thing as if the timing is off a notch for a couple of seconds and then dies. But it runs excellent wide open. Anyway, it sure would be nice to get a color-coded diagram for the switch and something trlling me what each colored wire is for. I.ll do what I can on my end and let you know what happens! Thanks again you all for the help!
 
Assuming that you now have a six (6) terminal ignition switch with the terminals marked as: B, C, A, M, M, S.

What color wires are extending from the engine's instrument wiring harness at the ignition switch location? Keep it simple.
 
Sorry it took so long. I work 13 hr days at a Wally World D.C. here in Cheyenne fro 2pm to 3am plus, Sat, Sun and Mon. Anyway, There is a white wire, purple/white, purple,brown, gray, red, black, yellow/black.But that aint the problem anymore, I think! But to be sure I have them right, I the way I figured it and put it, I put the white wire to the "S", a purple to a buzzer and a split off of that to the "C", purple/white to "A", brown to the buzzer, red to"B", black/yellow to the raised "M", black to the "M" and the gray was left open apparently for a future tach. Everything there seems to work alright, even the choke. The problem I am having now is that it is really hard to start. I have plenty of spark, its getting fuel or the plugs are wet with fuel when I pulled them, and when it does start it seems like it isn't running on all cylinders and then it dies out, and hard starting again. The battery is a brand new marine type. It acts like a fuel delivery problem, but the plugs are wet when I check to look for a dry one. The fuel mix is 50:1. It started okay before. I am wondering if there is some kind of water sensing switch inside the motor somewhere. I have to dry start it because I live in an apartment complex where we can't have a hose or a trash can to drop the lower end in. I need an implellar anyway. So a 5 to 10 second test start isn't going to really hurt anything. So if you have any suggestions, please let me know! Than again and thanks a lot for the help. Montana!
 
no water sensing switch on that motor.!!-------------Do you have spark at each plug that will jump a gap of 7/16" or better ??
 
Oh I got spark alright! It'll light your toe nails on fire! But I don't know if it will jump 7/16 on an inch or not! But it hurts and its nice and blue. What does it mean if it don't jump that far and what is the fix? It acts like a fuel pump. But the plugs are damp with fuel. I did put new plugs in it before this all happened. I went to autozone and tried to get the plugs that it needed. But they were out of the j6c's and instead sold me a cross brand of autolite 305 or 395. I don't have the box in front of me. The magneto seems to be dry and intact. So do the coils. Maybe the fuel pump diaphram is week. Anyway to tell if it is?
 
Fuel pump has NOTHING to with the motor starting !!!-----------------You fill the carburetors with the manual pump ( primer bulb ) , the fuel pump keeps the motor supplied once started.---------------Compression #'s are ????---------------You might as well check the flywheel key as well.---------Choke is operating properly ???----------------You are advancing " throttle only " all the way while starting ??.---------When you advance throttle for starting , does timer base rotate slightly ??
 
Sorry I seem like a dummy Racerone! I don't have a compression tester nor can I really afford to have it checked. I don't have a flywheel puller to check the key, and the throttle lever seems to work fine. All I know is that before I changed out the ignition switch and plugs, it ran pretty much okay. It just wouldn't shut down when I turned the key off. But since I replaced these items, I have this problem.
 
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