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Is there a tool for this?

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Act Three

Contributing Member
Need to remove a failed oil pressure sending unit on my starboard Chrysler 360. I confirmed it was bad by wiring the starboard gauge to the port engine sender. The sender is located at the back of the engine, down low between the distributor and the panel that makes the starter and battery connections and I can only get a grip on the top 3/4-inch or so of the sender, not enough to be able to break it loose or to able to get a wrench on it. Is there a tool (perhaps like a very small oil filter strap wrench) that will fit around the sender, which is only about two inches across?

These engines are mounted flywheel forward on v-drives and the back of the engines are actually partially under the cockpit deck, making this a very difficult place to work. If I have to, I'll move everything so I can get at the sender but that will make a 15-minute job into a two hour one. I'd appreciate any ideas

Bill
 
You can't remove the plastic cover over the ECU and get better access?

This is what you're looking at ,correct?

IMG_8878.JPG


I'm not sure how your engine is set up, but there are only 3 screws holding on the black plastic cover for mine. That gives me way more access. Got to ask :rolleyes:, since you have only posted a couple of times, I have no idea of your mechanical ability.:confused:
 
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That's the sender all right but mine is mounted vertically, actually screwed into the block just behind the intake manifold. The black plastic cover you mention was removed long ago to make room for the mounting of the expansion tank for the fresh water cooling system. The sender sticks up just far enough so that I can remove the wire from the terminal but not far enough to get a grip on it. I'd like to remove the sender without having to remove the distributor and the ECU. I have plenty of mechanical ability, just not enough access to break the old sender loose.

Going to give this another try tomorrow morning using a very large pair of groove-joint pliers that will open enough to slide down around the sender and grip it evenly. Just hoping that I have enough room to turn the sender the 4-5 degrees it will take break it free.

Thanks for the response. This site is a great resource for anyone who owns these old Chrysler engines.

Bill
 
Do you have enough room to get a "crow's foot" down there? A crow's foot is a wrench type attachment that looks like an open end wrench but works like a socket. Attached to an extension and ratchet, you may be able to get it off.
 
capnlazy said:
Do you have enough room to get a "crow's foot" down there? A crow's foot is a wrench type attachment that looks like an open end wrench but works like a socket. Attached to an extension and ratchet, you may be able to get it off.
Click to expand...

I thought about this myself, but the crows foot is not long enough to get to the nut portion. I've never seen a crows foot that is extended.

I think he may have to make his own custom tool for this job.:mad:

May be able to use vise grips like these
POOnG8Hsi2WiS87Q47D9p7K50HcnMV6DbF8FeYTNw6av3uhbCCHAdkqgml-d47OwDN6TSgllbc1k74ydHTLjKHY7YM3MXNRNwQzoReuX625ZyBit9GrJCOEMzVIA3ZFmaIDPuaveK_7B9-ZFWSb2oA
but I'm betting you don't have enough room.

Good luck my friend. Let us know how it went.
 
I'm under the impression that you are going to try to remove the sender by securing a tool around its housing. You do know there is a part under the canister that you use a wrench to remove the unit?
 
WoodieMan,

Yes, thanks, I knew that. No way I was going to get an open-end wrench under the sender. Tried that first before even posting here. Ditto with the 9/16 fitting pressed into the top of the sender. Useless. Tried a lot of things, including a strap-wrench before posting here. I'm transitioning from SBCs, so all things Chrysler are a little new to me. But, I got the old sender out. Took a while with a big pair of slip joint pliers. One or two degrees of pushing against the sender and it finally broke loose.

fastjeff: You may want to rethink that. Those little caps over terminals can be very useful. Pull it back and insert some silicone dielectric compound. The connection will never corrode. Been doling this on burned/sunk, screwed up electrical systems for 30 years.

Thanks to all who offered advice,

Bill
 
You could perhaps buy a cheap open end wrench and then bend it like the wrench used to loosen the nut on a distributor hold down. There may even be an open end distributor wrench out there.
 
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