1977 850 Ran fine, and then died suddenly.
The Engine has been in storage for 30+ years on a boat we recently bought.
From a different post, replies sound like age alone is not a cause for a Switchbox to go bad.
Recent history:
Insulation on trigger (and some of wiring on stator) were crispy and some of the wire rotted. I replaced trigger assembly, and I replaced a few of the wires on the stator. Replaced fuel lines, fuel pump internals, took carbs apart and replaced needles / seats, new impeller, new ignition, and a couple other things.
Engine fired right up, ran well for several minutes, then died suddenly (like someone turned it off). Cranks, but now no spark.
I figured it was the stator, so I disconnected and it tested open on the blue - blue/white wires (vs 5700-8000 ohm spec); red - red/white tested 65 ohms.
Installed new stator -- engine cranks, but doesn't attempt to fire (I haven't checked spark yet; don't have a remote starter button and am missing my assistant at the moment).
Tested the new stator:
blue-blue/white = 5980 ohms (spec is 5700-8000)
red-red/white = 145 ohms (spec is 57-76)
I confirmed that the orange "kill" wire is working correctly. It's short to ground when key is in "off" position, and it's open when key is "on." Mercury Tilt switch is disconnected.
Decided to check the old stator, and now it's good (!):
blue-blue/white = 7000 ohms
red-red/white = 65 ohms
I suspect the blue-blue/white wires have an issue.
Questions:
1) If the old stator had gone intermittent / open on the blue-blue/white wires while the motor was running, could it have damaged the switchbox?
2) Could the slightly high resistance on the new stator red-red/white wires be an issue (I assume not, as it's the blue wires that are for 0-2000 rpm operation)?
3) Is there a way to test if the Switchbox is bad (other than buying a new one and seeing if the engine runs with it replaced)?
4) Is there anything else I should check?
The Engine has been in storage for 30+ years on a boat we recently bought.
From a different post, replies sound like age alone is not a cause for a Switchbox to go bad.
Recent history:
Insulation on trigger (and some of wiring on stator) were crispy and some of the wire rotted. I replaced trigger assembly, and I replaced a few of the wires on the stator. Replaced fuel lines, fuel pump internals, took carbs apart and replaced needles / seats, new impeller, new ignition, and a couple other things.
Engine fired right up, ran well for several minutes, then died suddenly (like someone turned it off). Cranks, but now no spark.
I figured it was the stator, so I disconnected and it tested open on the blue - blue/white wires (vs 5700-8000 ohm spec); red - red/white tested 65 ohms.
Installed new stator -- engine cranks, but doesn't attempt to fire (I haven't checked spark yet; don't have a remote starter button and am missing my assistant at the moment).
Tested the new stator:
blue-blue/white = 5980 ohms (spec is 5700-8000)
red-red/white = 145 ohms (spec is 57-76)
I confirmed that the orange "kill" wire is working correctly. It's short to ground when key is in "off" position, and it's open when key is "on." Mercury Tilt switch is disconnected.
Decided to check the old stator, and now it's good (!):
blue-blue/white = 7000 ohms
red-red/white = 65 ohms
I suspect the blue-blue/white wires have an issue.
Questions:
1) If the old stator had gone intermittent / open on the blue-blue/white wires while the motor was running, could it have damaged the switchbox?
2) Could the slightly high resistance on the new stator red-red/white wires be an issue (I assume not, as it's the blue wires that are for 0-2000 rpm operation)?
3) Is there a way to test if the Switchbox is bad (other than buying a new one and seeing if the engine runs with it replaced)?
4) Is there anything else I should check?