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David Ray

David Ray

New member
Hey all, just joined the forum a few days back and thought I'd introduce myself.
I'm a SOON TO BE RETIRED :cool: male with a need to be on the water, preferably
fishing with my son. Last fall I purchased an old '80s model 16ft. Kingfisher bass
boat with an '82 90hp Evinrude outboard and we are just now starting the restoration.
I've ordered a manual from marineengine.com and hope to try and start the motor
soon.

The boat's wiring was a nightmare, most of that went into the trash already
and the only thing left in the console is the steering wheel. I have a severe OCD
condition when it comes to electrical circuits and long lasting connections. I believe
in 3 things, properly sized breakers, tinned copper wire and heat shrink connectors.
If you have ever purchased (let alone used) any "barrel" type connectors to join wires
I'm sorry but we just can't be friends :D


I've tested the compression which is 90psi on all 4 cylinders (cold engine) and the
poor thing has not run for what the seller told me was at least 3 years. At this point
if it will fire, the very first parts ordered will be ALL seals and water pump stuff for
the lower unit. It leaks on the driveway belonging to SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED.
This of course is a punishable offense :rolleyes:

I'm looking forward to learning from all of you guru types! Pictures forthcoming! See ya!

David
 
Not run for 3 years...

Compression of 90 psi cold on all 4 is okay. Should crank over fast with electric starter. Compression with a 50/1 fuel/oil mixture should increase evenly to over 100 psi w/all s/plugs removed.

With all s/plugs removed, a "Air Gap" spark tester is needed. The spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!

The spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gaped at either .030 (long life) or .040 (hot spark)... your choice.

Gear lube is what is called "HiVis" 80/90w Marine Gearcase lube. Should you see a "Phillips Head" in the lower unit (or any outboard lower unit) Do Not remove it unless you are well aware of what you're doing! The unit is filled from the bottom large regular slotted drain screw hole until it flows out the top fill hole of which has the identical looking screw.

The ignition on that engine is what's called "Magneto Capacitance Discharge Ignition" (solid state)... Magnets in the flywheel engage the stator (round green thing under the flywheel) which supplies approximately 300v AC to the powerpack capacitor. That stator has 2 large coils hidden within it (extreme Front & Rear) that supplies that voltage.

Inspect the stator under the flywheel with a strong flashlight to see if there might be a sticky looking substance dripping from it now, or previously as it sat elsewhere. If this condition exists, that would result in a voltage drop to the powerpack (faulty ignition), in which case, the stator would require replacing.

In all probability, sitting 3 years... the carburetors would be fouled. You may be lucky, but plan on cleaning and rebuilding them with complete kits. In back of the carburetor float chamber drain screws... way in back... near the bottom center portion of the float chambers are the 4 brass high speed jets. They're installed/removed with a special screwdriver available via any Evinrude/Johnson dealership. All of those jets must be absolutely clean... like new clean!

The smaller brass jets that you may come across... pay attention to the numbers (ID sizes) imprinter upon them and make notes where they came from before removing them. No, you will not remember!
 
joereeves, thank you for all the advice. It is very much appreciated. Your participation gives me confidence
of a positive outcome for bringing this oldie, but goodie back to life. I look forward to asking questions and
learning from the forum members.
Regards, David
 
Yes, could be exhaust housing drainage. Drain and pressure test lower unit....vacuum test also to be sure. Move shafts while vacuum and/or pressure is applied. This excercises seals to duplicate operating conditions. Those crimp barrel connectors are not reliable in marine, aircraft, and many automotive conditions where moisture can attack them. I solder and heat shrink. Then it's good for years and years of use in challenging conditions.
 
Thanks timguy & flyingscott, good suggestions!
I'll pressure test the lower unit before ordering parts for sure.
As for the crimped vs. soldered when it comes to marine grade tinned copper wire connections, the debate rages on...
I use and believe in heat-shrinked connectors, but crimping is the way I roll these days, I hope we can still be friends.:p
 
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