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Intermittent problem 2001 mercruiser 4.3l 262 cid EFI

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flukesalot

New member
I have a 2001 mercruiser 4.3l 262 cid EFI. It has an intermittent problem.
Runs all day and then stalls out , starts for ten second then stalls out and finally dont start anymore.She cranks but dont start. Took the flame arestor off and crank her no fuel coming from the injectors. Dont even hear the injectors popping or clicking or whatever sound they make.
Hears the great part. Go down the next day to trouble shoot. She cranks over and started like normal. Ran her at the dock for an hour or so, she ran perfect!!
Didnt use her untill next week. Ran 9 miles to the fishin spot no problem. Fished for 8 hours or so shuting her down and starting her up 15 times to run up on the drifts. No problem. Ran back the 9 miles to get home turn into the harbor she stalls out and the same problem as above. Please Help!!
 
what is your oil PSI when problem starts...reason I ask you the electric fuel pump gets it power from oil PSI switch when running.
When cranking you get your power from starter solenoid....Next time you can get it started, check to make sure you are getting 12 volts from starter solenoil.

Send me your e-mail and I will send you picture.... What is motor serail # this will help...

Steve [email protected]
 
Dont know the oil PSI when it happens. The serial # I am trying to get from my friend (its his boat) and as soon as i get it will post or email.
He is my email to send the pics [email protected]
Thanks so much for you response.
Mike
 
Check your battery cable connections at the battery and at the engine; ground at block and positive at starter and any battery switch you have. Make sure they are clean and tight. Next time she cranks and won't start, check battery voltage while cranking.
 
Went out today did the same thing no feul no spark. Got towed back. Bought the eletronic module under the cap and rotor. Got back to the boat tried to start her again to make sure she did not start before installing the module and she didnt. Put that module on. Cap and rotor back on. About 10 Minutes later she cranked right over. Went out fishing for 3 or 4 hour and she got us back to the dock!! Seems like it was that module. Crossing fingers. Thanks for you reply.
 
you never lose power to dash... Try this when engine running ok, go back and more wires around....

Next time it shuts down, go to your tach and take gray wire off, and see if motor will start

Steve
 
Hi had the same problem, last season and spent several days to find the fault.
The condition for the fuel pump and ignition to work after the initial turn of the ignition key to run is that the ECU must sense and engine turn signal or rpm. this signal comes from the ignition sensor in the distributor. Its a 15 minutes jobb to replace and not expensive. However the new type of sensors has three cables and the old two, the additional cable must be connected to earth. After replacement the engine run fine. I also discovered that the 12 volt supply to the high voltage ignition whatever its called in english had a small voltage drop compared with he voltage over the starting battery appr 0.4 volt when cranking the engine is drop was 4-5 volt why cleaning the conncetions helped. Hope this I am pretty sure you got a faulty rpm sensor. Good luck
Nicholas
 
nmartin said:
Hi had the same problem, last season and spent several days to find the fault.
The condition for the fuel pump and ignition to work after the initial turn of the ignition key to run is that the ECU must sense and engine turn signal or rpm. this signal comes from the ignition sensor in the distributor. Its a 15 minutes jobb to replace and not expensive. However the new type of sensors has three cables and the old two, the additional cable must be connected to earth. After replacement the engine run fine. I also discovered that the 12 volt supply to the high voltage ignition whatever its called in english had a small voltage drop compared with he voltage over the starting battery appr 0.4 volt when cranking the engine is drop was 4-5 volt why cleaning the conncetions helped. Hope this I am pretty sure you got a faulty rpm sensor. Good luck
Nicholas
Click to expand...
That was my problem also. Did the same thing the olther day no gas no spark. Changed the Ignition sensor under the distributor and she started right up. Have been out a few times since and she ran fine.
That ground wire from the ingition sensor I put that on the riser support bracket.You think thats a good spot?
Thanks Everybody for their help
Mike
 
flukesalot said:
That was my problem also. Did the same thing the olther day no gas no spark. Changed the Ignition sensor under the distributor and she started right up. Have been out a few times since and she ran fine.
That ground wire from the ingition sensor I put that on the riser support bracket.You think thats a good spot?
Thanks Everybody for their help
Mike
Click to expand...

Yes the riser bracket is fine I did the same. Happy boating
 
I have a very similar problem, except the motor has never quit once I get it running. But on several occassions when the motor was either turned off temporarily or had sat overnight, the motor would turn over and run for 10-15 seconds and then die, and would continually repeat this same behavior when the motor was turned over again. So it's clearly not a problem caused by not getting spark to the plugs, but rather a failure of the fuel pump to continue to provide fuel to the carburator once it has filled the bowl. Does this sound like it could also be caused by a defective ignition sensor? Any thoughts anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
 
David;
you have a different problem since yours is carbed and the original poster's is EFI.
Yours could certainly be the oil pressure switch.
When next it dies, take the flame arrestor off, and watch the carb throats while someone pushes the throttle forwar, with the engine off and key out.
If there is no gas squirting into the throats, the carb is likely dry.
Confirm by testing for 12 volts at the inline fuel pump with the engine running. There should be power to the pump obviously.

Rod
 
Dear Rod:

Thanks much for the prompt response. Would a defective oil pressure switch allow enough gas to get to the carburator to permit the engine to repeatedly fire up but then quit after running 10-15 seconds? When I've had the problem I gave up trying to starrt the engine after 5-10 cycles of starting and dying, but I have never had it fail to start at all.

Regards,

David
 
I don't think so. Water in the fuel is the first thing most people suggest as the potential problem, but I always use fuel stabilizer and I've never seen any water when I take off the fuel filter and drain its contents. And even if it were water, why would it run most of the time and only intermittently act up?
 
I would disconnect the fuel line from the carb, push a piece of hose over the line and crank the engine while you put the hose in a gas can to catch the fuel.

You must do this very carefully as not to spray gas all over the engine and your bilge.

After you collect the gas and pour it into a clear container, then you can say weather or not you have water in your fuel.

Fuel Stabilizer does not keep water from getting into your fuel tank.
 
David G said:
Dear Rod:

Thanks much for the prompt response. Would a defective oil pressure switch allow enough gas to get to the carburator to permit the engine to repeatedly fire up but then quit after running 10-15 seconds? When I've had the problem I gave up trying to starrt the engine after 5-10 cycles of starting and dying, but I have never had it fail to start at all.

Regards,

David
Click to expand...

When you hit the starter switch the oil pressure switch is bypassed so that gas will pump to the carb before there is oil pressure.
So a failed oil pressure switch is consistent with what you are seeing.

Rod
 
Ahah! Thanks much, I will replace the oil pressure switch and then swing a chicken around my head three times just to be sure.

David
 
nmartin said:
Hi had the same problem, last season and spent several days to find the fault.
The condition for the fuel pump and ignition to work after the initial turn of the ignition key to run is that the ECU must sense and engine turn signal or rpm. this signal comes from the ignition sensor in the distributor. Its a 15 minutes jobb to replace and not expensive. However the new type of sensors has three cables and the old two, the additional cable must be connected to earth. After replacement the engine run fine. I also discovered that the 12 volt supply to the high voltage ignition whatever its called in english had a small voltage drop compared with he voltage over the starting battery appr 0.4 volt when cranking the engine is drop was 4-5 volt why cleaning the conncetions helped. Hope this I am pretty sure you got a faulty rpm sensor. Good luck
Nicholas
Click to expand...

I also have a 2001 mercruiser 4.3 EFI.
My problem is simular. After running the boat hard on a hot day and starting and stopping several times then you go to start it up it sputters and thats it. Its like it is not getting fuel at all. After getting towed in and the boat back on the trailer and then home it takes about 2 hrs. I put the hose to it and it starts right up and runs great! The local boat shop said to replace the 2 relays that set on the right side of the motor. Did that and I still have the problem. Mine never stalls when running. Just all of a sudden will not re-start after being stopped. When the problem started you would get several good days out of it then the problem. But now it has happen the last 2 times.

Do you think mine is the ignition sensor also?

Ron
 
Are you running the bilge blower continuously? You should in order to keep the heat gain to a minimum. Is the cool fuel module working properly? When was the impeller last changed?
 
guyjg said:
Are you running the bilge blower continuously? You should in order to keep the heat gain to a minimum. Is the cool fuel module working properly? When was the impeller last changed?
Click to expand...

No I have not been running the blowers very much. How do I check the cool fuel module? Are you talking about the water pump impeller? I have had the boat 3 yrs and have not changed it.

Do you think I need to change the ignition sensor?

Ron
 
Don't change the sensor. It's is time for a new impeller to prevent a failure on the water and will help the cool fuel module do its job. I ran the blower continuously on my 4.3L. I also changed from a 3" to 4" blower when I gutted and rebuilt my 19' Baretta. That required a new blower duct hose and vent duct...3" to 4" to connect the air duct hose. A friend of mine is a marine tech. in Florida and recommended that I open the other air inlet (1 is closed off) and run the air duct to the front of the engine. I ran it to the front of the carb...it seemed to help the way it ran in hot weather.
 
Its like it is not getting fuel at all.
Click to expand...
The fuel may be getting hot and vapor locking. The cool fuel module is supposed to keep that from happening but only if it gets a good supply of cooling fluid. What temp. does the guage show when the problem occurs? What temp. does the engine run?
 
It runs between 150 - 175. Is that about normal? This is my 3rd summer for this boat. It is a 2001 Ebbtibe Campione 210 Fun Cruiser deck boat. It has had very, very little use. Before this I had a pontoon. I am still new to this kind boat. The first summer was trouble free. Late last summer was when this problem started.

Thanks for the help.

Ron
 
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