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Impeller Kit for raw water question?

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captain rik

New member
Ok im going to install a new impeller in the Brass Pump i got the kit it came with impeller,key, and Lube Glycerline 7gm.

I got the pump disasimbled. any help would be very appreciated.

From what i under stand you put the lube on the inside of the housing
where the ends of the impeller touch. and little in the slot where the key goes.

do i put the lube on the impeller ? and the shaft do i oil it or put the lube on it.

any help aprriciated on installing this kit and do i put the lube on the back side of the brass cover where the front of the impeeller may touch.

thanks again as well.
 
Not sure which engine/which pump, but with any of these, the Glycerline is for lubricating the impeller blades and the two thrust surfaces..... not the shaft. So be sure to get the ends as well.

The reason is to prevent dry friction from damaging the rubber.
Heat builds quickly when these turn for a short time before water makes it's way to the pump.
Under the right dry conditions, it can take only 8-10 seconds to harm one. Many will turn longer, but we typically don't risk it.
Once the system is primed, you'll be OK.

Not that you asked, but note that a rubber impeller undergoes as much stress during non-use, as it does in use. They actually prefer to be used daily/weekly, rather than sit in the pump for the winter layup.
When left stationary in the pump housing, several blades are folded over into the cam area. This causes the rubber to take a "set", leaving it not as resilient as when new.
If you remove this during your winterizing, it will very well make the next season with no issues.
 
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Pulling the rubber impeller is part of my layup for customers with Volvo Pentas. One can't use to much grease on an impeller when changing it out. Like Rick say's, it don't take long to ruin one if not lubed with something, be it grease at start up or water when running.
 
Okay thanks. its a aq131 engine so i need to put the lube in the housing where the blades are going to be making contact and all so pu the lube all over the impeller as well to keep it moist.

It looks like when i twist the impeller in i would have the blades twisted clock wise?
So in the winterize i should remove the impeller and store it till next spring.

By the way i took the points out and done a electronic ingnition module over the weekend put a new timing belt on and it fires right up im going to turn the distribor this weekend in the water to fine tune it.

And put a new timing belt tensioner on as well i got one at advance auto to fit a 92 volvo car for 35 dollars compared to one at the volvo marine for 109 dollars it fit great.

Now all i like is putting the cooling system back on and ready for the lake.

thanks for your help guys.
 
captain rik said:
  1. so i need to put the lube in the housing where the blades are going to be making contact and all so pu the lube all over the impeller as well to keep it moist.
  2. It looks like when i twist the impeller in i would have the blades twisted clock wise?
  3. So in the winterize i should remove the impeller and store it till next spring.
  4. By the way i took the points out and done a electronic ingnition module over the weekend put a new timing belt on and it fires right up im going to turn the distribor this weekend in the water to fine tune it.
  5. And put a new timing belt tensioner on as well i got one at advance auto to fit a 92 volvo car for 35 dollars compared to one at the volvo marine for 109 dollars it fit great.
Click to expand...
  1. Turkeys need to be kept moist while baking.... your impeller just needs to be lubricated.:D
  2. From the front, engine rotates CW. Your impeller blades will bend CCW when installed.
  3. If the boat is not being moored, yes! I do this every winter. Works great!
  4. Marine engines are very easy to damage by an incorrect TA. See your OEM manual and set BASE/Check TA... adjust accordingly. DO NOT simply adjust by ear!!!!!! :mad:
  5. Be sure to re-check tension as per OEM instructions! These must be re-set after operating the engine, and again at XX hours! And be sure to lock the tensioner down. The spring is for initial tension ONLY.
captain rik said:
One more thing am i to put water in the sea filter to prime the cooling system before taking it to the lake?
Click to expand...
You should not have to prime it. The lube on the impeller will allow it to run until it primes itself given that all else is OK....., IMO.
 
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