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Ignition problem OMC 2.3l

V

Vice city

New member
Hello all,
We bought a sunbird corsair bowrider equipped with an OMC 2.3l 1988 last year, in France near Paris.
It had some troubles to start last year (but once started, run very well).
This winter, the boat was parked in a hangar, so we have changed 4x spark plug and condenser + ruptor (and oil change and manifold change because of leak).
But this summer, it would no longer start. We don’t have any spark. Then we changed the coil, but no effect.
We realized that we only have 4volts at the input of the coil.
When the coil is disconnected, we have 12v, but as soon as we connect to the coil, drops to 4 volts.

Do you have any ideas to help us to run this engine ?

Thank you so much !
 
Disconnect the gray wire on negative side of coil, the wire goes to the Tach
If there is only one Gray wire then disconnect the wire at the Tach gauge
 

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  • OMC Engine Wiring.jpg
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I have 2 grey wires and one blue on the négative of the coil
So i have disconnected directly to the tachymeter.
But always 4v at the entry of the coil... but 12v when the coil is disconnected
1000051005.jpg
 
If the key is left on with engine not running and the points happen to be in the closed position (long term, not just a minute or 2) they will get hot. Essentially you are creating a low redistance short to ground.

This boat ran last season and no start/no spark after winter? Then I must assume the wiring is correct.

Did you replace points because it wouldn't start or as a tune-up prior to even trying to start it?

You can't check for voltage if points are closed. You will need to disconnect + side of coil or verify points open. Then measure voltage at + terminal wire.

Are you sure new points are properly gapped and truly opening & closing?
 
The boat ran last year but had some difficulties to start. Thats why this winter we changed spark plug, condenser, points and coil.
I dont have photo but yes 2 purple wires are on + side and 2 grey and 1 blue on the -.
Maybe a wrong connection inside the ignition?
 
Points ignition is just to simple to not just work so long as the points open and close as the rotor turns

Try this, disconnect all wires from the - side except the wire going to the distributor, it should run
 
Hi all,
The boat is in a hangar, and still not work.
Is it possible that the CDI is to blame?
Or a fuse ? Why we have only 4v to the coil...
 
You have 12 volts to the coil measuring with wire disconnected from coil + post but only 4 volts when wires are connected. You are only reading 4 volts because the points are closed & current is running thru them to ground.
 
Also as mentioned in #7 & #9 above....
Are you sure the distributor is turning? Maybe timing belt broke?
Perhaps condenser is faulty causing a short?
I can't see or feel your engine.... Question: Is rotor center contact a springy piece or a solid piece? If solid, then distributor cap center contact will be a spring loaded carbon button. It must spring out to contact rotor. Also, if rotor is cracked and/or carbon tracked under the solid center contact, then spark will travel thru crack or carbon track to the shaft which is essentially going to ground.

I believe that engine will have the electric shift assist module (ESA) that must be probably the 3rd wire on - side of coil. 1 goes to points, 1 to tach (& 3rd to ESA?).Remove all wires except the wire from coil - to points. Leave wires connected to + side. Now crank.... Spark now?

There is no CDI with points
 
Hi all!
First of all, I wish you a Happy New Year ! My best wishes for you and your loved ones.
I have a great new : I have spark now 🥳. The points were not well setted and so didn't moved with the rotation of the axle...
But the engine doestn't want to run, he only "coughs"... Quickly the battery runs down (but always 12.8V, so I don't understand)
 
If your meter is accurate and battery shows 12.8V then remove the Bat cables on both ends. So also remove the one on the starter and the block and clean them to bright shinny metal
 
You can check the coil to see if it's shorted, too- measure DC resistance between the + post and tower as well as between tower and - post and between + and - posts. Make sure to discharge the coil before doing this- your meter will be happier and you're not gonna like it if you become the load (spark plug), especially if it's an HEI ignition system

I heard about the HEI pain. Yeah, that's it- I heard about it. :eek:
 
If the key is on & points open there is no current flow. Points are nothing more than a second switch in series with the key switch.
 
Droid said:
If the key is on & points open there is no current flow. Points are nothing more than a second switch in series with the key switch.
Click to expand...
Wow! I was spouting all sorts of crap yesterday.

My new mantra- "circuit closed, circuit works".
 
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