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Ignition 23L Ford Cobra TKO

chef92

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"My ignition system seems to e

"My ignition system seems to eat condensors like candy. 1990 2.3L Ford Cobra TKO, in a 19' Bayliner Capri Cuddy. I've owned the boat since July 2007 Stored it from October to May 08, First time out on the water the engine started misfireing and backfiring. I knew what it was. I replaced the condensor and it it fine again. This was the third condensor since July. I would like to find out what is causing the condensor to go bad or even look into purchasing an electronic ignition for this engine, but I can't find a conversion kit. Any Ideas?"
 
"First verify for certain you

"First verify for certain you have a 1990 engine/drive, post the model # (not serial) of the drive or engine.

You can order the electronic conversion for yours through this site here, just select the electronic conversion under ignition parts.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_marine/omc.html

For your problem though I'm wondering if anyone has done any mods to your ignition over the years? Possibly changed the coil, using the wrong one, bypassed the resistor wire so you are getting too high a voltage when running, you should only have 8-9 volts at the coil with the key turned to ON, with points open."
 
The electronic ignition kit fo

The electronic ignition kit for the 2.3L is just a dash (-) in the link you provided. Is there a comparable kit that I could use?
 
OK Bob....Here's the scoop

OK Bob....Here's the scoop. Model# of my engine 985683. The voltage on each terminal on the exterior of the coil is 12.01 volts the voltage going to the distributor is 11.86 volts. I can't seem to find a part number listed for a coil that should be installed. The one that's installed says to use with an external resistor. All wires appear to be installed correctly. Thoughts?
 
Here is another model # 232BMR

Here is another model # 232BMRMEF and if I am looking correctly that is manufactured in 89' ?
 
"Looking at the wiring diagram

"Looking at the wiring diagram one side of the coil is supposed to be ground. I will have to disconnect that side of the coil to see if the voltage is coming from the coil or somewhere else. My guess is, the coil is bad. More testing to come."
 
"OK the drive model # and engi

"OK the drive model # and engine model confirm a 1989 2.3
Your coil sounds right except if the key was in the ON position I would have expected a bit lower voltage. I wonder if your resistor wire is OK?
Do you have a purple/black wire and a purple/red wire on the postive post of the coil?
Where did you have the ground attached to from your meter? The way it works is 12 volts goes to the + post and if the points are open the 12v goes right through the coil and you will see it on the other side, once the points close (which are grounded) they drive the 12v down to zero."
 
the pertronix ignitor II part

the pertronix ignitor II part number for the 2.3 with a mallory dist. is 9ML-141 put one in my boat and it works great good luck
 
"Thanks Smedly.
Bob, I will h


"Thanks Smedly.
Bob, I will have to check for a purple/red wire. I saw the purple/black. My wiring diagram does show there is supposed to be a purple/red coming from the alternator. I grounded the meter to a metal bracket on the engine. I also removed the wires from the negative side of the coil and still had 12 volts on the negative post.I will need to follow the wire from to the point/condensor from the distributor to the resistor, then to the coil to see where that wire connects to. My wire diagram shows two gray wires and one black attached to the negative post. This morning I only saw the two gray. So I guess more troubleshooting is in order."
 
"OK with the the wires off the

"OK with the the wires off the neg post of the coil then you should see 12v on both sides (there is no ground at that time). You should have 3 wires on the neg side of the coil, 2 gray 1 for your tach, the other comes from ESA, the 3rd wire is black and should come from the distributor (points).

The purple/red wire that goes off to a splice from the alternator is actually your resistor wire, need to verify that is there or else as I said before maybe someone has done some mods??"
 
"Looking at the wires, nothing

"Looking at the wires, nothing seems out of the ordinary. Everything appears to be original. The purple/red wire is there. There are 3 wires on the neg side of the coil. They are all gray however, the wire coming from the point is also gray.
170818.jpg
coil
 
"I guess at this point I'l

"I guess at this point I'll just purchase a new coil and hope for the best. It's only $23, not a lot of money if it isn't the problem. I'm not finding the smoking gun anywhere. Everything looks original to the engine."
 
I'm going to check the par

I'm going to check the part # on the coil. I think it may be a coil for a 3.0L 1991 and up. The picture for the 3.0L looks the same as the one I have installed. The coil that I believe I need 18-5437 says for 1990 & prior with breaker point ignition. Both coils look very similar. Bill what voltage is needed for a 3.0L 1991 + engine? Could someone have put in the wrong coil hoping it was close enough?
 
"The 91 3.0 coil is way differ

"The 91 3.0 coil is way different because of the electronic ignition, look at this pic different coil and dist. Coil is # 16

170829.gif
"
 
"Bob, thank you for your assis

"Bob, thank you for your assistance. I purchased a new coil (SERVICE COIL 18-5437)because the only other thing I could think was someone installed the wrong coil. It's a fairly inexpensive part.
description:
Metal Encased - 12 Volt Uses External Resistor (For All Applications) For: 1990 & prior stern drives with breaker point ignition.

I installed it. When I started the engine I could swear it wasn't as loud as it was before. It just sounded better. I checked the voltage on the negative side which goes to the condensor with the engine running and had 8.9 - 9.1 volts."
 
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