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Identify this Old Johnson motor

78whiteorbs

New member
"believe it is a late 60's

"believe it is a late 60's ,came off a 69 ArroGlas

No model plate on mounting bracket I have looked everywhere. quarter sized core plug on the powerhead says 1890213 also foudn this number on motor 305086 here's some pix"
 
"here we go<[img]"http://www.m

"here we go
221289.jpg
"
 
"Also trying to find any info

"Also trying to find any info on this boat. Vessel number has it registered as a "1969 ArroGlas" there exact spelling they had on file. I only found info on "Arrow Glass" or "Aero Glass" niether of which I could find any thing that looked like mine. Had current registration and all the cables, lines and rubber everywhere looks brand new in the motor. The pull cord is hard to pull , the motor is not stuck though , I can turn the flywheel by hand and the prop turns and I can here a "thunk" not like a thunk ,thunk like the other boat motors I have worked on (all 2 of them !
) and it doesn't seem to turn by it self after turning the flywheel so far so I am wondering what to do with this engine. Would be great if I could get her running. If not I got an old sea horse 18HP '57 or so with the wings and maroon and white paint scheme I can use but that's like half as much HP plus this one appears to run off a siphon gas tank (that is what was with it rather than a older pump pressurized gas tank. Any thoughts? This whole thing is gonna be a winter project for me."
 
"Steering is like brand new &#

"Steering is like brand new (cable and drum style)works perfect, All guages are there , has bilge pump that works, carpet is new , Johnson shipmaster remote control works great, throttle , forward, neutral , reverse, Windshield is there looking very dirty but in good shape. Chrome cleats and tack all looks brand new , no pitting. Some new paint and she''ll look great I think. Must haven't been outside that long maybe a year or two at most or so much would be rusted and wrong that isn't."
 
"Brian---

fiberglassics is


"Brian---

fiberglassics is THE site for old-boat info like this.
on your motor, first check the compression on both cylinders or get someone to help you do it....can't tune an engine with internal issues. then you need a $25 book called "Cheap Outboards" by a guy named Max Wawrzyniak....it's aimed solely at getting & keeping these old late 50s-60s OMC twins running for cheap, very well written, and is geared towards the relative mechanical novice. you can order through duckworks.com or from publisher, breakawaybooks.com. this is a WONDERFUL primer and the best $25 i ever spent on my old Johnsons. to put it all in perspective on how cheap these are to keep running, i got everything to rebuild entire ignition system (points/condensers, coils, plug wires), carb kit, fuel pump kit, head gasket, WP impeller, and lower unit seals for my 40hp, all for $133 shipped. and while none of this is as "trouble-free" as modern stuff, do the PM and it will rarely strand you without much advance notice."
 
"also, if you know boat is an

"also, if you know boat is an Arrowglass, look on Yahoo to see if they have an Arrowglass group....there is one for many obscure brands of old boats."
 
"Thanks for the tips Bruce. I

"Thanks for the tips Bruce. I knew about Max Wawrzyniak from this site

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/14/index.cfm

excellent reading there, I also have a '57 18HP seahorse that I know has good compression and just needs the recoil pull rope replaced(it snapped ) and some new spark plug wires ,prolly all the basic stuff that Max went through in that step by step I am gonna do this winter. I will be gettin that book though! I figure that that 35HP will push that fiberglass boat much nicer though! I can turn the flywheel by hand and feel it has compression ,Iam about to do some reading about how to do a compression test(tools required and waht not) I was under the impression that a cold non running engine couldn't give an accurate reading from a compression test. Hopefully it has good compression and just needs "waking up" and tuning. I found this too which was very helpful . In theory though what you said made total since to me if it had internal problems then it be a big waste of cash and time ,thanks for the reassurance there.

I think that the Fiberglassics website is down due to they are moving it to a different host but I will check on yahoo as you suggested thanks!

Found out taking to the guy I got it from it was an "Aero Glass" not arrow, I am interested to find out more as always, Very incouraging to hear what you put into your 40HP ,if that is all it took plus time I would be so very pleased ! The 18HP sea hores I got a really good feeling about it coming back easily enough , this one ,the '59 Superseahorse, is a mystery.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086"
 
"on compression test, yeah, in

"on compression test, yeah, in theory, you should have engine warmed up. in theory, you should also take engine to sea level (i live at 4000'). in many cases, neither one is practical so you just run the test as best you can and interpret figures. honestly, you can probably tell enough to know whether it will run just by holding finger over plug hole while friend pulls rope or cranks it with electric start. you'll get a lower than normal reading if engine is cold (blowby due to cylinders & pistons not having expanded to operating tolerances), but i'd say if you get anything over abt 85-90 psi cold, go ahead and try to run it....i'm guessing this would equate to abt 105-110 warm. since 2 stroke has no valves, main source of compression leakage will usually be piston rings....after you run test, squirt some oil into plug holes and re-run test....if you get big improvement, this indicates your rings aren't sealing well. significant differences between cylinders are Not Good and often indicate internal issues. even if you need to do pistons/rings, last time i priced em for the 40, they were abt $65 each; multiply that x3 for the 65. if you know how to do work yourself (or are willing to learn...many local community colleges in coastal areas have intro to OB maint courses), you could nearly rebuild one for cost of the annual service at dealer on a modern 65.

there really isn't much to one of these old motors....2 stroke engine designed to run at constant RPM coupled to prop, with dog clutch that moves gear cluster back & forth on propellor shaft to engage either the F or R pinion....not too much to go wrong as long as you have compression, and these engines are pretty modular and many parts can be swapped between models. the stuff i replaced on the 40hp pretty much eliminated most of the sources of stranding....carry a spare fuel line/primer bulb and a pull cord for starting if electric start dies, and you should mostly always make it home. OTOH, i once had to paddle in from over a mile offshore when the CDI 'power pack" on my late-80s 'Rude died without warning, as they apparently have a bad habit of doing, esp. when run on crappy fuel..... "appropriate technology" for OBs is often old n crude, but it works........only real downside is they suck fuel & spew much of it into environment"
 
"well said ,sounds like my old

"well said ,sounds like my old 68 40 hp ,sucked and spewed its way all the way to the bone yard"
 
hello folks
I have an old Jo


hello folks
I have an old Johnson engine and am trying to find out the year it was made and if there may be anyone that buys old motors etc.... any help on this will be appreciated. The motor is a model number HS39. Serial# 336425.

Thanks
Jim Goodwin
 
Jim--

start your Q as a new


Jim--

start your Q as a new thread. you'll find not many people will see it here. you might also look at discount-marine-parts.com as they have tables with model # to year etc references for many OBs
 
"Bruce ,I am about to buy a tu

"Bruce ,I am about to buy a tune up kit and was wondering were you got yours from. CHEAPEST I can find is close to 200$ from Maxrules.com. your price of 133$ shipped sounds much nicer."
 
got my stuff from this very si

got my stuff from this very site we're on....figured i should at least try to support the folks who spend money keeping servers running so we have access to all this wonderful info.....link to Sierra Marine catalog from main page. your stuff should be about the same $ as mine since motors are very similar in terms of tune-up stuff.
 
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