Logo

I have a dumb question….

SunDance87

New member
What is this black tank at the front of the engine with the cap on it and what is the purpose? My engine is overheating and I want to narrow it down. Also, should water drain out of that hose that is connected from that tank to the water pump? Thank you.


IMG_0977.jpg
 
You said dumb question, I didn't...
Its the radiator, to use an automobile term.
If it leaking water, you will overheat. and

where the heck is the fan belt?

This may actually be dumb question
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I was replacing the belt when I took the picture. As for the heat exchanger, when I pop open the cap, the tank is empty when the engine runs, and I have water hooked up to the out drive as well. I'm completely new to boats so yes I will hAve a lot to learn and a lot of questions, I just want to fix this over heating issue
 
That tank is the heat exchanger and should be filled with a 50/50 mixture of a non- diluted ( not the "ready to use" stuff) high quality automotive antifreeze and fresh water.
There is also an overflow tank ( that's where the thin hose from the cap "neck" goes. It should (when cold) be filled to the "minimum"mark on the side of the typically plastic tank. You need to find out where the anti-freeze that was in there went. A good first step is to pressure test that tank ( same pressure tester as used for car radiators) and make sure the system holds at least the pressure as marked on the cap and a few pounds more.

No water should drain out of ANY hose in that system, except the thin hose to the cap neck, and that water/antifreeze mixture should as stated before be captured by the aformentioned overflow tank and returned to the engine automatically when the engine cools.
 
Hi, well you are in for a crash course on marine engines. The black round tank is a heat exchanger ( marine term for radiator) now this is done with liquids and not air/liquid exchange like a car/truck radiator. The heat exchanger has fresh water (antifreeze) in the middle part and raw water on the outer ends which also passes through the inside. Over heating can be caused by a number of things, faulty thermostat, plugged heat exchanger, loss of cooling raw or fresh. Try and get the use of a cooling system pressure tester. Do not over pressurize the fresh water cooling system. Refer to the rad cap for pressure or the manual. The cap could be the wrong pressure never assume anything look and refer to the manual. If the fresh water system is intact, check the raw water side. Remove the end caps on the heat exchanger and see if you can see through the small inner tubes that run inside. These tubes should be clean and see through. If not you need to have the exchanger cleaned. Be careful! wrong full cleaning! means a new one. If the exchanger is clean make sure you have raw cooling water coming from the leg!
From the pic it looks as if you have a 350cu in v8 chev engine and a 200 series leg, ex 200,250,270,280 possibly a 290?
 
You have a Volvo Penta 225E according to the valve cover decal.
The drive will be either a 275, 280 or 285.

Yes... the heat exchanger performs the same duty as does a car/truck radiator, but with liquid (seawater) as the medium for the heat removal.
In lieu of small tubes and fins for use with air as the medium, this system uses liquid and the tube bundle in a similar fashion.

The Ethylene Glycol coolant should not be leaving the H/E. If it is, you may have a head gasket issue, or an internal breach within the H/E tube bundle.
You'll want to do a leak-down test.
You can also check the coolant area for the presence of hydrocarbons (i.e., combustion gasses).

The Jabsco seawater pump must have the correct impeller installed. If not, it may not pull seawater in.

Also, replace the water neck fitting and special beaded gasket.
attachment.php



This mounts to the upper area of the main suspension fork just forward of and below the transmission.
fork4-600x400.jpg


If there is excessive play at the upper pivot tube bushing, the water neck will not seal correctly.
The fix is to replace the bushing along with the new fitting/gasket.

Your exhaust-manifold-to-elbow rubber couplers shows signs of having been over-heated.
One of the two double band clamps appear to be over the scallopped areas of the elbows. This may restrict "spent" seawater flow, and may cause issues.
DO NOT replace with OEM.... the OEM are always too short!
Instead, find this 95mm soft wall hose by the foot, and make each one approx 2" longer.

I've made a few notes for you on the image below.
 

Attachments

  • SunDance 87 heat exchanger.jpg
    SunDance 87 heat exchanger.jpg
    76.4 KB · Views: 104
Last edited:
Back to the Jabsco pump impeller

The larger volume Jabsco and large volume Johnson F6B-9 crankshaft pumps both use a very similar impeller.
The OD of the vanes is identical (A below), the vane count is identical, the shaft spline size and count are identical (shaft diameter below).
Either impeller will insert into either pump body!

The Johnson F6B-9 impeller measures 1.900" in depth (B below).
The large volume Jabsco impeller measures 1.990" in depth (B below).
This is a .090" difference in depth and is difficult to see with the untrained eye.

jabsco123.gif


The Jabsco impeller will not fit correctly into the Johnson pump body (it will sit proud of the body by approx .100").

However, the Johnson impeller will slip into the Jabsco pump body.... but will be shy .090" of the pump body bore depth.

Parts guys will occasionally give out the wrong impeller for the older Jabsco large volume crankshaft pump. :mad:

If the Johnson 1.900" impeller is inadvertently installed in the Jabsco pump, the .090" deficit will prevent the pump from creating the necessary suction.
In which case, you will have over-heating problems.



I'd highly recomend that you start at the drive. Make sure that nothing is obstructing the pick up area, including the area that leads to the pivot tube... of which doubles as a water tube!

The water neck fitting is a wear item, and must be routinely replaced. Corrosion takes it tole on these.

The "S" hose must be good and with no signs of cracking, etc.

The seawater pump suction hose must be good and tight at either end connection.

Once past the suction side, any leaks are easy to see.

As said, pull the H/E end caps and look at the tube bundle. The ID of the tube must all be clean.
These can be carefully rodded out with the correct size wire rod.

Pull that splitter fitting out and look at it. It should have a divider plate in the center of it.

Remove the exhaust elbows and look at the seawater transfer ports. These can become rust restricted and can cause a big issues.

At the ends of each elbow, you'll see the scallopped areas where the spent seawater enters the exhaust gas flow.
If the rubber couplers are being compressed into the scallopped areas, it will restrict outgoing spent seawater.
If the seawater cannot enter and leave seawater side of the H/E tube bundle rather quickly, it will not be able to remove heat from the E/G coolant solution.







.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the helpful responses, I am trying to learn as much as possible.

So I started at the drive and seen that both of the big black hoses have cuts and holes at the bottom (BTW drive is a 275) now which tube does what? I know the bottom is for exhaust.
IMG_1112.jpg


Also I removed the H/E so I can clean it, and the water pump so I can replace the impeller and also the thermostat so I can replace that as well.
 
Bottom hose is exhaust. Center, or smallest, is water intake. Top, largest is U/J driveline bellows. No holes in the top two. If you have holes , you best get after them. Bottom has a hole OEM and should be installed with the hole down to let water out of bellows when tilted up.
BTW, that trailer bracket is a good one , don't let it get away. The OEM bracket was the most finger pinching POS ever invented.
BTW, that hose clamp on the water hose holding it on the hose nipple is not located properly.
 
If the drive shaft bellows has leaked, you're going to need:

New bearing crosses
Most likely a new main drive gear seal due to abraisive rust at the seal surface washer
Possibly a new main drive gear seal surface washer (of which means adjusting the BB rolling torque value)
New PDS bearings/seals (of which means pulling the engine out on this model)

Pull the transmission ONLY for this work.



Try moving the "set pin" to the center position.


.
 
Last edited:
So I open the water pump to reveal the impeller, but to me it looks like that it is okay? (BTW I did remove two small pebbles from the impeller!)

IMG_1116-1.jpg


Inside the heat exchanger I did have some small rocks that were blocking a few holes so I removed them

IMG_1120.jpg



As for the drive shaft bellow, the slit is very small so I hope it didn't do much damage.
 
Last edited:
Im also just trying to figure out where all the water in the H/E went. I would have to fill it before every time taking it out to the lake.
 
I'd replace the old Jabsco with a new Johnson F5B-9.
You can occasionally find these on sale for around $150 or so.

This will be an exact replacement for the Jabsco. The three mounting bolts will change, however.

jp1451_l.jpg


Im also just trying to figure out where all the water in the H/E went. I would have to fill it before every time taking it out to the lake.

The heat exchanger will be filled with Ethylene Glycol coolant in it.
Do NOT use water.

You should NOT be loosing coolant...... period.

As mentioned, remove it and have it pressure tested.
If it's OK, you'll need to do a pressure test on the engine side.

Please take heed of the advice that you're being offered here.
DO NOT listen to your automotive buddies. This is Marine specific advice, and it's free.

If not.... you may be in for some very expensive repairs later on.


.
 
Last edited:

As for the drive shaft bellow, the slit is very small so I hope it didn't do much damage.
Look, small hole or large hole, water doesn't care how quickly or slowly it enters this area.

What does care, are the carbon steel components (i.e, bearing crosses, PDS bearings, main drive seal washer, etc.)
These do not like water. In fact, they hate water!


I know a bit about this stern drive system and this engine.
I've been working on the AQ series for about 23 years or so. I am very anal with regard to what I do on these.
While there are certain charateristics that are similar to the car/truck engine, there are many aspects to the Marine engine and cooling systems that are very unique to Marine.

Believe me.... I've seen just about everything that an owner can do wrong.

I also see the results when the owners pay close attention to maintenance and preventative maintenance.
These are the smart guys, and the ones who end up spending less in the long run!

I hate to see anyone have trouble. Trouble that is so easily avoided when the right measures are taken.
Often these measures are so simple and inexpensive..., yet when left to chance or to the blind eye...., they become very expensive repairs.

Be smart..... do what's needed now... or pay much more later.

Your call!



BTW, we here at ME.com all have the desire to help those who are willing to help themselves. We want for all of us to have a good and trouble free boating experience.
That's why we post and help people here.



.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top