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How to install a trigger 35hp

M

MikeMan

Contributing Member
Hi,I have a 1980 35hp ECSM evinrude, is the closest you can get it to the outside without the magnets in the flywheel hitting it the best?
how do they work?
thanks
 
ok i see the magnets a on the inside of the flywheel too.There is something about a nut in the epoxy of the trigger that needs loosening. whats that about?
 
Remove the flywheel. Then take a piece of plastic and make a band that fits snugly around the coils on the armature plate. Remove the trigger with the 2 screws, install the new trigger and use the plastic ring as guide. (The original tool is a steel ring). Carefully put the flywheel on and check that it is not touching the flywheel magnets when rotated.
 
IMG_1602.jpgThanks for that. Outboard ignition troubleshooter says to move the trigger towards the crankshaft to create spark at 0.005"at a time. That seems weird to me as i thought it was triggered by the outer magnets on the flywheel. The inner hub of the flywheel has some magnetism, although its weak it is in the opposite pull direction to the outer magnets ie it pulls towards the crankshaft where as the outer pulls away from the crankshaft. The magnetism on the inner crankshaft is at east west when the outer magnets a north south. note the screw in the picture. Is that correct then to adjust towards the crankshaft to create spark?
 
This is from outboard ignition frequently asked questions, im not sure what to make of it
The trigger or timerbase (term varies by manufacturer) is basically the same thing as a distributor. This component is also mounted under the flywheel and also uses the flywheel for it's operation. The center hub on the flywheel also contains magnets mounted in a 360 degree configuration. Instead of generating electrical current though, these magnets simply tell the trigger/timerbase what position the crankshaft is at. As the magnets pass by the pickup sensors, the trigger/timerbase sends a signal to the power pack, telling it the precise moment to release its stored energy to the specific cylinder. The spark timing is controlled exclusively by the trigger/timerbase. As the component rotates with increase or decrease of the throttle, so does the park timing. Smooth and accurate movement of this device is critical to a good running motor.
 
The trigger on that motor is very reliable so why the change.------Did you test the old trigger to see if it was faulty ???--What was the original spark problem ?---------There are NO MAGNETS on the hub of this flywheel !!-----No you do not adjust toward the crankshaft to get spark !
 
Hi Racerone you a right the trigger is reliable. I pulled it off as i was wondering why i was getting only 0.8 ohmns between the two trigger wires when i should be getting above 10. I clipped the wires near the trigger base and tested the wires back to the plug.the black one was fine but the white one was not, I later felt along it and there was a discontinuity in the wiring yet the outside covering looked just normal. I replaced the wiring and the original trigger and positioned it close to the outer flywheel matching the machined marks on the base and she sparks brilliantly on both cylinders. Thanks!
Interestingly the initial problem was spark occurring on only the top cylinder so perhaps it seems the wire had enough continuity to get through some current but not enough to fire both.
 
NB for those unfamiliar with this unit, it has only one trigger, that trigger signals the powerpack when too fire separately the two sparkplugs
PS luckily i managed to cancel the new trigger order before it was sent, ive learnt the importance of correct diagnosis first.

Cheers
 
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