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How to I get a broken fitting out of the engine block?

1stboat

1stboat

Regular Contributor
So I made a big mistake yesterday. I broke the fitting that connects to the elbow of my oil pressure sensor off. I was trying to get the oil pressure sensor off and I applied too much torque and it snapped off. Part # 84 in this pic,

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Cran...on_id.361910712--store_id.366--view_id.775655

How can I get it out? broken1.JPG
 

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OK.... this is in the oil galley port at the rear upper area in the block, and is after any oil filtration.
It's actually immediately above the oil filter area, and is after filtration.

SBCOiling.gif

What ever debris that you may create, and debris that you cannot retreived, can enter the engine's oiling system. So drilling and chasing the threads is pretty much out of the question.
A spiral twist style EZ-Out will expand the brass and will probably not work.
A straight flute extractor tool may work... not sure, but worth a try.

There is an old trick that you may want to consider. That would be packing a piece of cloth into the port prior to any work.
Do what it takes to remove the brass, chase the threads as to clean them up, and then crank the engine over until oil pressure comes up. At the same time, try to retreive the cloth with a very narrow needle hook of some sort.... you'll need to be creative.


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The worst part of this whole mess is that I broke the fitting, albeit accidentally, to avoid cutting the wire on the sensor which I had to cut in the end anyway. Arggghh! What about the idea of using a small chisel to make a slot to be able to use a flat head screw driver to back out the rest of the fitting?
 
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1stboat said:
The worst part of this whole mess is that I broke the fitting, albeit accidentally, to avoid cutting the wire on the sensor which I had to cut in the end anyway. Arggghh! What about the idea of using a small chisel to make a slot to be able to use a flat head screw driver to back out the rest of the fitting?
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... It's probably beyond screwdriver torque,....

I use the spiral cut easy-outs, the short 1s, with the 1/2" hex-heads...
I got the set, so when it chews out the centers, I go next bigger, til it comes out....

That's a tough spot to rag catch filings,...
I think I'd just do the easy-out thing, 'n crank the motor over after, it should shoot out any filings...
Atleast it's yellow brass, 'n not iron...
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,... It's probably beyond screwdriver torque,....

I use the spiral cut easy-outs, the short 1s, with the 1/2" hex-heads...
I got the set, so when it chews out the centers, I go next bigger, til it comes out....

That's a tough spot to rag catch filings,...
I think I'd just do the easy-out thing, 'n crank the motor over after, it should shoot out any filings...
Atleast it's yellow brass, 'n not iron...
Click to expand...


It may not be beyond screwdriver torque. The fitting turned almost a whole turn before snapping off when it was against the distributor I tried using as a stopper.

I did go get a set of spiral cut easy-outs after work today.

I'll make sure to turn the motor over a few times to get as much filings out as I can before running the engine.
 
Not to discount Bill's suggestion..... but IMO, the spiral twist style Easy-Out tends to expand the brass as it pulls itself further into the remaining threaded portion.
There is not much wall thickness there.

images


I'd see if you can find something more along the lines of this straight flute style extractor.
They still have a taper to them, but no spiral cut.
They do require being set by tapping them into the hole, but once set they will not walk further into the hole causing more expansion.


220px-ScrewExtractors-square.jpg
images




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if it feels like you might have to turn the extractor with too much force... to where it might start chewing/slipping....
apply heat to back side of that lump in the casting- a little soldering torch would even help- not much cast there - will expand nicely
but run the bilge blower if using a torch in there.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Not to discount Bill's suggestion..... but IMO, the spiral twist style Easy-Out tends to expand the brass as it pulls itself further into the remaining threaded portion.
There is not much wall thickness there.

images


I'd see if you can find something more along the lines of this straight flute style extractor.
They still have a taper to them, but no spiral cut.
They do require being set by tapping them into the hole, but once set they will not walk further into the hole causing more expansion.


220px-ScrewExtractors-square.jpg
images




,
Click to expand...

I think I will try the flute style extraction first, for several reasons. One, the fitting already has a hole in the middle of it. Second, it will not create metal shavings to fall into the oil lubrication system. Lastly, the fitting is turning freely. Not to mention, new tools I can add to my tool chest.
 
jeffnick said:
Warm the block and give the brass a shot of Dust-off or other compressed air before using the extractor?
Click to expand...
I was planning on putting a rag or some tissue down the hole then cleaning the area before doing any of this to avoid having anything fall into the engine. Then take that out and use the flute style extractor. I found it for less than four dollars at O'Reily auto parts.
 
Here's another long shot if you are too concerned.

The SBC oil filter adapter and by-pass valve unit's threaded portion leads directly to this area that you are working in.
You could remove the oil filter cartridge, and gently vary air pressure as to positively charge this port.
You'd need just enough air pressure to prevent any debris from falling down into the oil galley.

Chevy_oil_filtre_adapter.jpg
 
RicardoMarine said:
You could remove the oil filter cartridge, and gently vary air pressure as to positively charge this port. You'd need just enough air pressure to prevent any debris from falling down into the oil galley.
Click to expand...
If I understand you correctly, I can remove the oil filter just in case any metal filings fall into the hole in the oil pressure sensor fitting. Then blow compressed air into the the hole you pointed out to blow out any metal shavings out. Or remove the oil filter and any metal shavings that I do happen to create will fall out into the bilge?
 
I'm happy to report, the flute extractor worked like a charm. Tapped it in with a small hammer and the rest of the fitting came out with a simple twist of my fingers. Whoo Hooo!

photo-1.JPG


Thank you all for your great tips.
 
1stboat said:
If I understand you correctly, I can remove the oil filter just in case any metal filings fall into the hole in the oil pressure sensor fitting. Then blow compressed air into the the hole you pointed out to blow out any metal shavings out. Or remove the oil filter and any metal shavings that I do happen to create will fall out into the bilge?
Click to expand...
No, not exactly. That image was just grabbed from the Internet. The locations being pointed to came with the image and are pointing out the by-pass valve and spring.
And no.... I don't think that the debris would not fall very far into this oil port due to the oil film catching and holding on to it.
Later it could then be pushed into the oil galleys and cause damage.

I was suggesting that this threaded portion be pressurized during the procedure as to prevent any debris from falling into the oil galley.
The threaded port (where the filter cartridge attaches) is the port for the oil galley supply and leads directly to your work area.
(oil enters the exterior of the filter media/exits the interior of the filter media, then up and into this threaded section, and into the oil galleys)

Anyway.... good news.... it sounds like you got it.
Glad to hear that the straight flute extractor worked for you. :D



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