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How do I check/set the timing on a 1971 9.5 Johnson

kingoffixin

New member
I have a 1971 9.5 hp Johnson that I can't get to idle down right. I think maybe the timing is off. It starts and runs well but I can't get it to idle slow. I turn down the Idle Adjustment knob and when I get it almost slow enough it kills.
 
Usually if you cant get it to idle right with the adjustments the carb is fouled or the motor is sucking air someplace. Try these adjustments first. Clean and rebuild carb.

Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Disregard the high speed adjustment as it is fixed on a 9.5

The "timing" is more of a sincronizing of the carb and magneto plate. Theres a mark on the spark advance cam, line the cam follower up with this mark. Once there, loosen the screw on the end of the throttle shaft. Hold that little nub against the cam follower which holds the follower againts the timing mark. Tighten the throttle shaft screw. That should do it. Sounds easy.

If that doesnt work, look at your upper crankshaft seal under the magneto plate. If theres oil present near that area, the seal may need to be replaced. The other place that can cause trouble is the throttle shaft itself. Run the motor and then spray seafoam, carb cleaner... where the shaft goes into the body of the carb. If the motor changes RPM you've got a leak.
 
if the points,are clean,set at .020,and the flywheel key is not sheered,it is timed,...however,....we used to use 'timing fixtures',and a meter,..and u could get those eng's to idle so slow u could count the flywheel rev's.
 
I see the cam follower on the carburator but i don't know where to line it up. Where should the throttle be positioned? As i twist the throttle the cam moves.
When I'm on Slow the follower on the carb rod is not touching anything and as i twist the throttle the cam thing moves and contacts a pivoting arm that then contacts the follower on the carb rod and the rod turns and opens the throttle plate in the carb.

When I adjust down the Low speed adjustment it will idle slow and rough, backfire, rev up, slow down, backfire, rev, slow down etc.
 
Ignore the throttle position. Turn the throttle till the follower lines up with the mark on the cam. Loosen the screw on the end of the throttle shaft, this releases and the butterfly closes. With your finger, push the nub from the throttle shaft into the follower which in turn pushes the follower into the mark on the cam. Tighten the screw while holding this together. This sincronizes the spark with the carb. The follower engages the cam when spark advance is needed, which maybe about 1/4 throttle.

Turn low speed needle in till it touches. Turn it out about a turn and a half. Start the motor. Turn the idle knob ( on the tiller arm) to slow it down till it just barely runs. Turn the slow speed needle (dashboard) in till it coughs. Stop turnning in and start backing out the needle till it runs smooth. If it takes two or three times of going between the idle and the slow speed jet, just keep going lower and better as you go. Remember the idle and the slow speed jet are two different things.

JWB makes a good point, assuming the points are set right and the flywheel key is aligned. Gas, spark, and compression.
 
The timing is set by the flywheel slot aligning with the slot in the crankshaft. Unless the flywheel key is sheared, the engine is in time.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)


Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE:
Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.


Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at
:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

My method for setting the carburetor is with my previous reply above.

Do you have compression on both cylinders?

Do you have spark on both cylinders that will jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame? ...... a real SNAP! The 1/4" gap is important.
 
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