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Honda BF 25. Bystarter problem..

Z

zimsen

New member
When the engine is warm is really hard to start and
it goes not well on high speed.

I cheked the bystarter and the needle was stuck in the chamber.
i had to pull very hard to get it out....this is not right? is it?

The bystarter is just 2-3 months old , and i dont understand
why the needle gets stucked , should it be so tight?
 
I am not sure what the needle is getting stuck in...is it the carburator or is it the housing of the bystarter itself?

Also, who put the bystarter in? There are two versions for that motor depending on serial number. There was a Service Bulletin which recommended changing the bystarter and carb bowl of the top carb if there was a cold starting issue. If you put in the new bystarter, but had the old carb bowl, that could be a problem.

The needle on the bystarter, when cold should not be closed on the seat. As the motor starts, it allows additional fuel to flow into the carb. As the motor warms up, 12v from the engine causes the inside of the bystarter to expand and the needle closes down on its seat and cuts off the extra fuel. You can tell it is working when the motor starts at a high idle and the idle becomes slower as it warms up. That is the extra fuel being cut of gradually.

Does the engine start easily when it is cold?

Does it seem like it is starving for fuel or flooded when you try to start it warm?
If you advance the throttle when it is warm, does it start easily? It is supposed to start without advancing the throttle, but if it does, then the motor is flooding...and you probably need to clean you carbs.

If your serial number is between BATJ-1000001 and BATJ-1300212, you may have the old version.

To check your bystarter vintage...if the number on top of the bystarter starts with DE or DR, it is the old vintage. If it starts with AE it is the new one.

To check your carb bowl, just above the drain of the carburator bowl is an imprinted number. If it is 75 it is the old version....if it is 70, it is the new. This might be hard to see.

Just remember, the new version bystarter needs the new version carb bowl. Likewise, the old version needs the old version bystarter. I do not think you can buy the old version bystarter anymore, so you would have to install the new version bowl to match it up properly.

I hope all that made some sort of sense.

Mike
 
hondadude said:
I am not sure what the needle is getting stuck in...is it the carburator or is it the housing of the bystarter itself?

Also, who put the bystarter in? There are two versions for that motor depending on serial number. There was a Service Bulletin which recommended changing the bystarter and carb bowl of the top carb if there was a cold starting issue. If you put in the new bystarter, but had the old carb bowl, that could be a problem.

The needle on the bystarter, when cold should not be closed on the seat. As the motor starts, it allows additional fuel to flow into the carb. As the motor warms up, 12v from the engine causes the inside of the bystarter to expand and the needle closes down on its seat and cuts off the extra fuel. You can tell it is working when the motor starts at a high idle and the idle becomes slower as it warms up. That is the extra fuel being cut of gradually.

Does the engine start easily when it is cold?

Does it seem like it is starving for fuel or flooded when you try to start it warm?
If you advance the throttle when it is warm, does it start easily? It is supposed to start without advancing the throttle, but if it does, then the motor is flooding...and you probably need to clean you carbs.

If your serial number is between BATJ-1000001 and BATJ-1300212, you may have the old version.

To check your bystarter vintage...if the number on top of the bystarter starts with DE or DR, it is the old vintage. If it starts with AE it is the new one.

To check your carb bowl, just above the drain of the carburator bowl is an imprinted number. If it is 75 it is the old version....if it is 70, it is the new. This might be hard to see.

Just remember, the new version bystarter needs the new version carb bowl. Likewise, the old version needs the old version bystarter. I do not think you can buy the old version bystarter anymore, so you would have to install the new version bowl to match it up properly.

I hope all that made some sort of sense.

Mike
Click to expand...
Thanks for the respons

I didnt put the needle in , but when i screw on the plate it will get in to the carb bowl , and it seems its to thight for the needle down there , i dont know if it will moves when the 12 V kicks in or not..know what i mean?
I have just put on a new bystarter , not a carb bowl... can you help me with the part ID from this site? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2004/BF25D4%20LHA%20MARINE%20ENGINE%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%2 3%20BATJ-1000001%20TO%20BATJ-1099999/CARBURETOR%20ASSY./parts.html

The engine starts easily when its cold.
Normaly engine starts easily olso when is hot , but if i have the enginge shut down for 5-10 minutes , then its sometimes hard to start....

im sorry for my bad written english , but hope you understand what i mean...im really thankfull for your help here...

Marius , Norway.
 
First of all, your written English is outstanding compared to my Norwegian.

You can check to see if the by starter is expanding. Remove the bystarter from the engine and connect the wires going to it to 12 volts. Before you do that, measure the distance of the tip of the needle to the base of the bystarter.

In 4 to 5 minutes, remove the 12 volts and measure the distance of the tip again. If it is working, the distance will have increased.

As for the part numbers. If you ordered the part in the diagram, it is the old version bystarter and probably will be compatible with your carb bowl. It is good to check for the number 75 imprinted just above the drain nipple of the carburator bow.

If it says 75, they should be compatible.

Mike
 
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