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HollmanMoody VP250 drive

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pugetsounder

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"Any old timers out there know

"Any old timers out there know anything about these? I'm looking at buying a restoration project. It's a 1970 Donzi Ski Sporter with a Hollman-Moody 302 ford and a VP250 drive with a Hollman-Moody plate. Unfortunately someone had done a really crappy job of painting the drive and I thought I would rather just replace it with a 290 DP with hyraulic trim. But then I started thinking that maybe these drives were special and beefed up to handle the extra power. I believe the HM 302 puts out 300+ HP. Just curious to know if anybody here has ever even heard of these. Thanks.

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"The Holman Moody drives (

"The Holman Moody drives (along with Eaton, Chrysler, etc) were nothing more than Volvo Penta drives with exception to their (H/M) unique PDS housing, of which was extended to place the engine further forward by 3-1/8".
(not all were extended)
And of course, different exhaust was used.


Other than that, the drive is the small bearing 250 (possibly a 200) and will very likely have beveled gears in the lower unit. (you'll know by the sound of the drive)

I'd not too far exceed 300 hp with this drive.

Be sure to replace the PDS bearings/seals. Often these get over-looked, and when the AFT bearing fails, you will end up replacing some expensive parts.
"
 
Thanks for the info. So do you

Thanks for the info. So do you think it's possible to swap a 280 or 290 DP drive along with the transom assembly? I've seen some good clean used ones for not much money around here. I think the DP and availably props would do this boat some justice performance-wise.

Also I was thinking of running a Y exhaust to be able to cap off the through hull and run it through the drive if I wanted to quiet things down temporarily.
 
"Yes, you can swap in a 280 or

"Yes, you can swap in a 280 or 290 DP. The transom assy I believe is gonna be a little differant.I know they are differant than my 270 drive. You will love the ease of working on these drives and they are VERY reliable. I think you will need to cut a larger hole in your transom to accomodate a 290 DP drive plus it will have power trim!!Just make sure the lower unit uses the proper gear ratio!!Good Luck PugetSounder and if you get a DP you will absolutely love its performance both holeshot and top speed and handling."
 
"[b]PugetSounder, just a frien

"PugetSounder, just a friendly FYI here regarding a few hurdles that you may need to over-come:

The 250 will not have much value as for resale. No biggie!
The Holman Moody PDS (primary drive shaft) adapter "clamping collar" and "bolt pattern" is same, right on up through the drive you are considering!
This is good as this means the Holman Moody unit will mate to the later transom shield!

The Holman Moody PDS will be course spline at the rear.
This means that you will need a course spline female yoke on the universal shaft of a 290 transmission.
No problem if your bearing crosses uses the internal "C" clips such as the drives up to the first gen 290.
Then the yoke can be swapped over.

The 290 style transom shield will be slightly different and will require some transom mods... not bad though!
The rubber transom seal now rests OUTSIDE of the bolt pattern.... this is good!

Now......., the 290 still uses the Rev Latch unit and the SS swing bracket (anchorage)!
I'd want to get away from this if I could ..... although not a deal breaker!
To get away from this, you must go to the SP C or DP C etc drive.
(some call this the large pin 290... it is not a 290)

This DP C drive eliminates the SS bracket and Rev Latch system.
This transmission also uses the larger Driven Gear angular contact bearings.
This too is good!
It will also use the Universal Shaft "bearing crosses" that use the External Clips.
This is not good w/ the Holman Moody PDS!
There is NO course spline female yoke for this external clip bearing cross.
They are all fine spline!
For this, we swap the entire shaft assembly.
This means that we now must re-set the rolling torque on the main drive gear bearings since these went to a "crush sleeve" (and no longer shims).
If you know how to perform Hypoid Gear work, and have this experience, it will be no biggie!
Follow OEM procedure.
While in there, you install a new main drive seal!
Piece of cake!


So, ya got a few things to consider my friend!
For me, I'd do what it takes to keep from using the 290 drive, and go with a C, C1 or later drive.... unless you don't mind the SS anchorage/Rev Latch unit!

(I run twin GM V-8's w/ DP's hung on the pre- 290 shields. If I were to change some day, I'd do the DP C's or C1's. AS IS, it works great!)


Things to note on a Duo Prop lower:

Any DP lower unit can mate with any Intermediate housing after the 200/250 drive, and with the correct critical shimming of the vertical shaft tapered roller bearing race.

There will be two lower unit vertical shaft lengths (Long on earlier/Short on the later units).
Each requires a different length spline coupler.

B and C gasoline series props fit any of the AQ series Duo Prop lower units.

Hardware is same with exception to inner shaft cone nut thread size between early/late!


And yes.... Jesse is absolutely correct! These are among the easiest and most well designed drives that you could want to own!
No Gimbal System: no gimbal ring, no gimbal bell, no gimbal bearing!
Great Main Suspension Fork style steering geometry, easy drive shaft bellows replacement, no routine annual engine alignment, no thru hub exhaust, and so on.

Have fun!"
 
WOW! Thanks for all that info.

WOW! Thanks for all that info. My head just exploded! So if the 290 won't "bolt up" how about a 280? The only reason I like the 290 is because of the hydraulic trim. I had a 280 on my last boat and the outdrive was fine and trouble free but I was never crazy about the electric trim motor. But if the 280 would be an easier bolt up then I could live with it. I know the 280 can handle the power no problem.

Also after doing more research I found out the 302 Holman-Moody came stock with 235 hp and the 351 HM came with 265 hp. The guy who posted 300+ must have warmed his motor up a bit.
 
"P Sounder......
If you have

"P Sounder......
If you have the 250, a 270 or 280 drive can be adapted if you use the 270/280 Intermediate housing along with it.
If you have the 200, the transom shield is not the same.
Best to identify what you have first!

The 290 w/ the hydraulic system will NOT bolt up to a 200, 250, 270, 275, 280 nor 285 transom shield.
For this, you must use the 290 shield.

If you were to install the entire drive system, then yes..... it will work.
(This is where I explain that your H/M adapter will still work, but you'll have the yoke issue.)

200, 250, 270, 275, 280 nor 285 have trim... only the electric Lift-Out unit!

Yes, the 280 can handle the power..... but the transmission becomes stronger in the A series and later. (275 A, for example)

You would still be better off with the C drive, IMO..... better power tilt/trim system also.


Just to be clear..... the main suspension forks can be swapped on a few of these Intermediate housings if this is a concern to you.

BTW, the 250 suspension fork will have larger Port/Stbd holes and a bushings installed in it for the reverse latch unit anti-rotation arms.... this weakens the suspension fork some.
If you go 280, get rid of the 250 suspension fork!

."
 
Thanks for the info that's

Thanks for the info that's great stuff. I go to look at the boat tomorrow. If there is too much dry rot I will pass on it. I'm not too shy about mechanicals. I'll definitely let you guys know if I buy it.

As far as I can tell the Holman Moodys from 1970 were VP 250. I have no problem with the 280's if evrything else works out. It outweighs the need for hydraulic tilt. I'm more concerned about the ease of bolting up if the OD on this boat is shot. There are still plenty 280s out there in good shape. I didn't know the A series had a didfferent tilt than the C series. I had an A series and the tilt motor was kind of slow and tempermental.
 
"PS'r, My comment re; the

"PS'r, My comment re; the "A" pertains to the upper gear case (transmission)..... 275-A, SP-A, etc.
Early drives had mechanical Lift Out only.... there is no Power Trim with these.

Well good luck w/ your decision!
."
 
"RE: "and the tilt motor w

"RE: "and the tilt motor was kind of slow and tempermental."

Not the general case, even though they aren't exactly "speedy"."
 
"Unfortunately I decided to pa

"Unfortunately I decided to pass on this project. On advice from a good friend of mine who is a good marine mechanic, he said there is a better than not chance the block is cracked. If it sat outside for four years (that I know of and probably longer before that) and was never drained properly or had anti-feeze sucked into it for which I believe it did not, then it's probably cracked. He said he has seen many many cracked blocks to know. Since it's the original motor with Holman-Moody tags and numbers, I think buying a new one would drop the value of the boat a bit in the end. plus everything else this boat needs it's going to be a money pit anyway without having to deal with the motor."
 
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