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Hole ID on lower unit?

D

dawgs

Regular Contributor
1998 Johnson 130. On my lower unit just in front of the water intake there is a small hole. It kinda looks like a screw hole. Does anyone know what this is? When I layer the lower on its side I have the lower unit oil that I just put in leak out. It doesn't seem right to me. If oil is getting out. Isn't water gonna get in when I reinstall the unit?
 
Upper driveshaft seal. Just under the water pump. Leaking when you position the LU in such a way that the oil runs up there. Then it drains out the hole you speak of. You probably have water in the LU too.
 
No, not really too difficult.
If all goes well.
Before tackling this, remove the WP and turn the LU over on it's side. Check to see if oil is coming from around the driveshaft.

Under the WP, you will see an irregular "square" shaped upper DS housing. It is held in place by 4 bolts. Remove bolts, CAREFULLY pry up evenly around all sides of that housing. The housing is tight in alot of cases. Sometimes use a suitable drift, and drive the housing in such a way that it turns a bit to loosen it up. Be very careful with the bolts...they break.
Be very careful WHERE you pry. You can break edges, vanes, part of the LU housing itself by choosing the wrong place to pry against.
Just watch where you put the fulcrum of your prying tool...you get me?

Remove housing, RandR the seals. Note how far the original seals are installed into the top of the housing. Seals go in back to back, and sometimes one seal is very slightly larger than the other. The parts pages almost always show a closeup of the seal drawing and how they go back in. I have not looked your engine up yet.
If the seals have different part numbers, then one is larger than the other, and must be assembled in the proper order.
Use new o-rings on outside of the housing, and coat seal edges with Permatex gasket sealer in the white bottle. Don't drive the new seals in too far.

Other than that....piece of cake....i guess.
 
I just looked your engine up, and I see you only have one seal. Other than that it is as I described.
Go to shop.evinrude.com, drill down into the gearcase section, and it is reference number 49 and 50
 
You will not need the housing unless it is rotted away or you damage it.
You will need one seal, one o-ring, a bottle of Permatex aviation gasket sealer in the white bottle.
Check out the parts page I referenced.
 
Ok I removed the WP and inverted the LU. It appears its leaking from the seal you mentioned. My drive shafted has a little play in it. Is that normal or will the new seal tighten it up?
 
Daselbee. You said reference # 49 and 50. The housing is 49. The o-ring is 29. Just to be sure. What exactly do I need? O-ring and seal....correct?
 
I ref'ed the 49 and 50 to show you the housing and seal.

The shaaft has wobble in it. The seal will not tighten it up. Alignment with the crank when L/U is installed tightens it up.

You should only need o-ring and seal. Have you loosened/removed the bolts? I want to know if they are stuck.
 
Yes, the o-ring is #29. Worst case is the upper driveshaft has a groove in it, not allowing a good seal. Possible, but don't freak out....just change the seal and see what happens.
 
Ok bolts came out easily. I removed the housing. O-ring is intact but a little flimsy. I'll replace that. As for the seal. The seal came out with the housing correct? How do I remove the seal from the housing?
 
Normal seal puller, or drive out from rear with screwdriver....any number of ways. If you do drive it out, be careful to not damage the bearing in there. I bet it pops out with just hand pressure. No hammer needed. MAybe. Use care in putting new one in. I use a properly sized socket to install new ones.

If it was me, I would put a large screwdriver in there, up against the back of the seal, and holding housing, screwdriver together, whack the bottom of the screwdriver against the workbench (hard object). It might just knock out the seal.
 
Ok figured ok the problem. I was hitting it like a woman. Ok so I have to get the parts then reassemble. I just tried to partially put it back together so I wouldn't lose anything and it was giving me a hard time lining up the housing, driveshaft and LU. Is there a trick to getting it back in?
 
You should pressure test it. I would.
If shotgunning, go ahead and change the shift rod housing. This is held on by six bolts, just ahead of the DS, and the new part has the o-rings already installed. If I remember, the part is only about 18 bucks, unscrew the shift rod, RandR the housing and gasket, replace shift rod, set height, go.

Only if you want to just shotgun it while it is off. Setting the shift rod height is the most challenging part of this repair.
 
I use a socket to lightly drive the seal into place. Choose correct size, should be the same size as the outside diameter of the seal, but not bigger.
You did note the location of the old seal like I suggested? It is possible to drive it in way too far.
Coat the outer edges of the seal with Permatex aviation gasket sealer in the white bottle.
Grease the rubber lip of the seal before you slide it down the driveshaft.
 
As far as the permatex. Couldn't find the white jar. That's gasket seal #3. I did find gasket seal #2. It has the same specs but its in a tube. Is that ok?
 
Ok. Can you use it on thermostat cover gaskets too? What goes on all of theses bolt threads when I reassemble?
 
You won't need any sealer on the thermo gaskets. They are rubber, if I am not mistaken, and can be re-used many times.
Yes, you coat the bolts with that Permatex. Helps keep them from seizing.
Especially the DS bearing housing bolts, the WP bolts, and the LU bolts.
 
My thermo gaskets are regular gasket material. Not rubber. I wish they were because I have no luck with gaskets
 
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