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HELP!!!!!

J

jumpin

Member
Two questions. First is do you determine engine rotation from the rear looking at the flywheel or from the front looking at the crank? Now the second and more complex, and FRUSTRATING one. I think I found TDC as evidenced from the mark on the front of the pulley cover lining up with the arrow type marker attached to the block and the mark on the flywheel as seen when I remove the rubber timing mark cover. With the mark on front on the 0 line and the mark on the flywheel in the straight up vertical position can I assume I am at Top Dead Center? I then understand to check for proper spark plug attachment at the distributor cap you remove the cap and determine which contact the rotor is pointing too and that is position one, right? Now the frustrating part, The reason I am checking all this is that I have good fire at the coil and the plugs I checked. The motor is getting fuel as evidenced by the visual inspection of the accelerator pump squirting of fuel and also the introduction of fuel manually through the top of the carb on seperate occasions. The motor is NOT even trying to start! Back to the rotor in the TDC position. The fist time I pulled the cap I was 180 Degrees across from my number one plug wire! Great I got this thing figured out, so I reconnect my wires according to the firing order assuming right hand rotation looking from thr rear and try to start. I immediately observed the engine coughing and backfiring out of the carb and again no start! I lined up the marks on the front and rear again and pulled the cap off and it was 180 degrees off and in the original position I started with!!! I rolled the motor over and got my marks lined up a third time and the rotor was in the same position as I observed the second time, but 180 degrees from my current spark plug wiring on the cap. Does anybody have any idea what could be happening. The distributor is a Mallory 670 AV. The reason I started working on it in the first place was an occasional miss with a complete shutdown as in a loss of fire not fuel. I installed new plugs and a new ignition module. I am completely lost as to what to try next so any ideas or similar experiences with outcomes would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
 
Ah-hah! Thanks, I needed a laugh.

As you probably surmised by now, the distributor turns ONCE as the engine turns TWICE--and your distributor is 180 degrees out of time--that's why it's backfiring through the carb.

On your rotation question, unless you have a VEE-drive (or one of those goofy, ridiculous Chris-Craft monstrosities) then the Port engine is the "normal" rotation engine.

Jeff
 
fastjeff, First , thanks for the reply and the humor (I need it right now!).The motors are 1987 and they are in a Chris Craft Catalina. They are not coupled to v-drive transmissions. So you think the Starboard motor is the left hand? This means you determine rotation from the front of the engine? Also, how do you know which turn of the engine is the right one to determine rotor position?
 
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The engine rotation is determined by looking at the flywheel. It is labeled LH for CCW rotation, RH for CW rotation.

To set the timing you need to find TDC on the compression stroke. If it was running and you have not pulled the distributor, you can use the original #1 position and get your wires straight. The firing order is in the manual and should be cast in the top of the intake manifold.

As far as what rotation engine you have, look at the serial number plate right below the timing plug on the flywheel cover. That is the definitive reference for an original engine.

Unless you have a 1.88 or 1.91 gear, your starboard engine should be RH (flywheel goes clockwise). BTW, either 'handed' engine will have the rotor spin CW when viewed from above.
 
makomark, thanks for the info. Will there be a R or L in the serial number? Looking at the flywheel on the Starboard motor it does turn to the right, or clockwise. My survey says that my transmissions are 1.91, but the mechanical survey states that they are 2.91. If they are 1.91's, will that make a difference in what you posted? The boat is a 1987 Chris Craft 426 Catalina turning 24" by 26" props.
 
That big a boat and that big a wheel.....I'd vote for the 2.91:1, driven by big blocks. If you aren't sure, check the model number on the gear, something like 10-18-011. The ones just under 2:1 have the output roatation opposite from the input rotation. To be positive, you should be able to look that nugget up on the www or this board. (in the 'old' days, BW made CR versions,, but that's another discussion.)

The sequencial number part of the engine SN should have a LH or RH in front of the five digits. I posted the page out of that vintage owner's manual a few weeks ago. I think if you search for "serial" on the crusader board, you'll find it (search function at the top.)
 
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I attached a photo of my ID plate on 89' 7.4's, the "RH" is indicated in the model info. Hope this helps. Also hope the attachment is here...
 

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Jumpin.....

From my experience, you will find more talent here in a handful of people than you could ever hope for in ANY marina or repair facility...! THIS IS FACT! Good Luck
 
OMG! I hope you don't have THOSE Chris Craft motors, such as in the below photos!

Even trained marine techs scratch their heads when trying to determine rotation on these weirdos. (For the uninitiated, note that the TRANS is connected to the front damper end of the motor, NOT to the flywheel end! The distributor is mounted--not where it normally goes on a S B Chevy--but in C-C's custom trans adapter. Getting a headache yet?) Why did C-C do this utter insanity? Dammed if I know!

Jeff
 
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I remember being scared by this setup on my uncle's boat when I was 11 in Miami...40 years later I still have nightmares. Some night's I have to take Lunesta JUST to get to sleep :)
 
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