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HELP with Espar heaters

I am having a hard time pushing the combustion assembly inside the heat exchanger because of the new o-ring that makes it too tight, any lubricant would be safe to use ? (I usually use dielectric grease on o-rings)

it also makes it hard for the sealing ring to stay in its right spot.


Also interested in hearing your thoughts about Aziscohos1 question regarding the ducting, there should be an alternative solution to the very fragile corrugated paper with aluminum lining ducts that are originally provided, and ideally something insulated.
 
sorry for the delay, this is the busiest time of the year for me. You should definitely put the new pump in. The old pump does not deliver the right amount of fuel. The ticking sound you say is on standby? When the heater is not running? Or do you mean it ticks on startup. What kind of tank and fuel p/u is it drawing from? There is nothing other than the fuel pump that would make a ticking sound. I am not familiar with the ducting, although if it is hvac hose it may not be rated for 225, 230 degree F. Which is close to the temperature. At the outlet of the heater. I only use the Espar PAP ducting. Great ducting,but $10 something a foot.
 
Last edited:
Hi Brian,

This is my first post in this forum but I have been reading it for a while with great interest.

My last boat had a Hydronic system in it with a a Webasto boiler , worked great but it was noisy . I did the full install myself .

This time around I have a little more room and I am thinking about heating with air instead, it may help better with the condensation, It gets mighty cold up here in Toronto.

I found this Eberspacher on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESPAR-EBERS...446&&clkid=6915887842217533231&_qi=RTM1303752

and was wondering what you think , Yeah or neah ? Looks like they have there trouble but im a handy guy , and I take instruction well :)

Thanks for any help.

Regards John.
 
Good day. It is like buying an old used car. The D7L is has a number of parts that are not available anymore. The fuel pump,motor,and flame sensor. If any go you are going to have the throw it in the dumpster. I usually advise present owners not to spend more than $500 on them, and only if it has been stripped down and inspected for heat exchanger damage, bearings, cool down timing(flame sensor) motor commutator etc. I would not buy it over the Internet for $500. Maybe $200.. what size boat do you have?
 
Brian silk said:
Good day. It is like buying an old used car. The D7L is has a number of parts that are not available anymore. The fuel pump,motor,and flame sensor. If any go you are going to have the throw it in the dumpster. I usually advise present owners not to spend more than $500 on them, and only if it has been stripped down and inspected for heat exchanger damage, bearings, cool down timing(flame sensor) motor commutator etc. I would not buy it over the Internet for $500. Maybe $200.. what size boat do you have?
Click to expand...

Hi Brain.

Thanks for the advise, it really helps.

The boat is 53 long sailboat , it has a fully cored hull so not as hard to heat as a solid glass hull one.

Our temperatures get down to around -20 Celsius in the winter and we like to store her in the water and bubble the hull and put a full cover on it . I do plan to do work on her during the winter and we like to spend weekends aboard. So basically keeping her livable year round. I just got the boat so not sure how warm she will be. Our last boat was 48 foot aluminum sailboat and we heated the mostly with 3 electric space heaters. I installed the Hydronic system on it but found it to noisy , i had it in the aft cabin area and it didn;t allow us a good sleep. The new boat has a huge midship engine room that will allow for a much better space to mount the furnace. I found too much moisture build up with the last system as I only used internal air for heating. I think the next setup I will draw mostly external air with a adjustable dampener in case it gets just to cold out side and i can't get it warm in the boat I could draw more air from inside.

Thoughts and suggestions Brian? Should I be looking for a new unit ? One big one or two small ones ? Don't really want to go hydronic , i like the air idea, plus we can put the ac through the same duct work , we are heading south in 4 years and the boat will stay there until we are to old to sail her :) at that point bring her back and return to our wintering regime.

Thanks for this great thread Brian.

Regards John
 
Brian,

Four questions:

1. How do I initiate a question to you on this forum? The way I just did? Or some other arcane method I can't find on this site?

2. I have a D5LC with the modified (runs high all the time) thermostat replacing the useless digitroller. Problem is with the fuel metering (dosing) pump. It runs per spec but doesn't always push fuel, thus keeping the heater from firing off. I have tested the pump from the output (hose removal only!) and input ends and detected no input suction at times, confirmed by no output flow. This problem appears intermittent - I got it to start working again after the first episode but the problem returned after several successful . Plenty of fuel is available. Unit is 6 years old and serviced (overhauled) once in Seattle and has otherwise been reliable (after replacing the digitroller). I noticed one remedy on this site which suggests smartly whacking the pump a few times. I will try that. What other methods can I employ if the pump doesn't respond to this?

3. You mentioned high heat silicon sealant as an exhaust component sealant as well as the traditional cement. What part number for the silicon sealant? The cement is hard to use and doesn't seem resistant to accidental knocks or vibration due to its non-resilient nature when cured.

4. So far, I've avoided having the system go into lockout by turning it off if it doesn't light off by the time the pump quits on its first cycle. How do I unlock the system should I fail to turn it off in time (no digitroller)?

Thanks for your help!

Bob Cross
 
Fugue said:
Brian,

Four questions:

1. How do I initiate a question to you on this forum? The way I just did? Or some other arcane method I can't find on this site?

2. I have a D5LC with the modified (runs high all the time) thermostat replacing the useless digitroller. Problem is with the fuel metering (dosing) pump. It runs per spec but doesn't always push fuel, thus keeping the heater from firing off. I have tested the pump from the output (hose removal only!) and input ends and detected no input suction at times, confirmed by no output flow. This problem appears intermittent - I got it to start working again after the first episode but the problem returned after several successful . Plenty of fuel is available. Unit is 6 years old and serviced (overhauled) once in Seattle and has otherwise been reliable (after replacing the digitroller). I noticed one remedy on this site which suggests smartly whacking the pump a few times. I will try that. What other methods can I employ if the pump doesn't respond to this?

3. You mentioned high heat silicon sealant as an exhaust component sealant as well as the traditional cement. What part number for the silicon sealant? The cement is hard to use and doesn't seem resistant to accidental knocks or vibration due to its non-resilient nature when cured.

4. So far, I've avoided having the system go into lockout by turning it off if it doesn't light off by the time the pump quits on its first cycle. How do I unlock the system should I fail to turn it off in time (no digitroller)?

Thanks for your help!

Bob Cross
Click to expand...

Bob, if the pump is pumping and delivering intermittent fuel then it could be the filter in the suction end of the pump( remove fuel line and then remove aluminum spigot, there is a small basket filter in the orifice in the end of the pump. It is a mesh filter inserted in the end of the orifice. Like a bowler hat . You can check it visually, If you see a shiny mesh then leave it, if you see crud then you have to pry under the plastic flange on the end of the pump shaft with a small precision screwdriver or box cutter blade. The plastic is the gasket surface for the spigot so don't damage it. It can then be back flushed) DO not remove anything on the delivery end of the pump. If the filter is clean then check to see if you also have a primary pump supplying the fmp. If you do, then it has a pressure regulator(Chrome Disc about 2.5 " across with a dial and numbers on it. It should be set at between.5 and 1 psi. It may be broken and then it delivers too much pressure to the fuel metering pump, that makes it wonky.Whacking the pump is usually only for when the pump does not throw at all. hen the pump is working correctly you should see small round air bubbles in the clear line. If you see rectangular block of air then there is a problem with the fuel reaching the pump, or overpressure from the primary pump.

I don't know the part #, but it is a Loctite/permetex product red high heat silicone. Available at CanadianTire here Napa in their sealant section.
You can unlock the ecu by jumping terminals 9 and 11 on the black plug on the bottom of the ecu and then turn the heater on. Remove the jumper when the heater starts.
 
Brian,

Thanks for your help. Some new info:

1. First thing I did was check the filter. It's clean and shiny.

2. This unit has no boost pump or pressure regulator. The dosing pump is located three feet from the fuel tank and has its own pickup. The heater is located about 20 feet horizontally and three feet vertically from the pump. When the pump puts out, it has no problem pushing fuel to the burner.

3. After checking the filter, I disconnected the output hose and looked for fuel as the pump clicked away. Nothing happened. I then disconnected the input (suction) side hose and put my tongue (much more sensitive than my calloused fingertips) against the tube in an attempt to detect suction pulses. I felt nothing for about 15 seconds, then, for no reason I can tell, I started feeling suction pulses, and fuel started coming out the output hose. I reconnected everything and tried another start. This time, the system started and ran just fine. I could see bubbles flowing thru the fuel line as the pump purged itself. Everything was great for the next few days and cycles, then the pump failed again. Went thru the same checks as before but was unable to revive it this time. Sounds terminal.

4. We avoided a lockout by shutting the system off after the pump ran thru its first cycle and before it started its second attempt (Suggestion from Guy @ Electric Boat).

New subject - I can't find a reference to an ecu. I find references to a controller (installation manual) or control unit (parts list manual), both names referring to the same part in the IPBs. Is this the ecu?

Bob
 
Fugue said:
Brian,

Thanks for your help. Some new info:

1. First thing I did was check the filter. It's clean and shiny.

2. This unit has no boost pump or pressure regulator. The dosing pump is located three feet from the fuel tank and has its own pickup. The heater is located about 20 feet horizontally and three feet vertically from the pump. When the pump puts out, it has no problem pushing fuel to the burner.

3. After checking the filter, I disconnected the output hose and looked for fuel as the pump clicked away. Nothing happened. I then disconnected the input (suction) side hose and put my tongue (much more sensitive than my calloused fingertips) against the tube in an attempt to detect suction pulses. I felt nothing for about 15 seconds, then, for no reason I can tell, I started feeling suction pulses, and fuel started coming out the output hose. I reconnected everything and tried another start. This time, the system started and ran just fine. I could see bubbles flowing thru the fuel line as the pump purged itself. Everything was great for the next few days and cycles, then the pump failed again. Went thru the same checks as before but was unable to revive it this time. Sounds terminal.

4. We avoided a lockout by shutting the system off after the pump ran thru its first cycle and before it started its second attempt (Suggestion from Guy @ Electric Boat).

New subject - I can't find a reference to an ecu. I find references to a controller (installation manual) or control unit (parts list manual), both names referring to the same part in the IPBs. Is this the ecu?

Bob
Click to expand...


Sorry for the delay, work is smoking busy. The ECU is the square aluminum box near the heater(brain) Or called the control unit.
It looks like you need a new pump I would say. But I think you have figured that out by now.
 
I have a 1989 Ocean Alexander with an Espar D7L heater that, miracle upon miracle, continues to work. Perhaps I should have followed the adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Well, I didn't try to fix it --- I replaced it, with another D7L that had supposedly recently been rebuilt by an Espar dealer. At least it looks a whole lot cleaner than my old one.

Now the issue: How do I wire it to get what I want? What I have is the rectangular, 6-pin plug that plugs into the socket connected to the heater; the plug whose wires lead up to the heater control in the salon. Looking at the plug, the two top corners are square, & the two bottom corners have a 45 degree section, so that the plug can go into the socket only one way. The upper left pin has no connection; all of the 5 other pins are connected to the heater & are wired, with a 5-wire cable that goes to the heater control in the salon.

The rebuilt heater came with a new heater control that was labeled 302 1235. Looking at it from the top, it is stamped 12 V & has 7 pins. Six of the pins are located concentrically, with #1 located at 135 degrees (ie, SE), #2 located at 90 degrees (ie, E), continuing counter-clockwise & ending at #6 located at 270 degrees (ie, W); the 7th pin is at the center & is labelled #9.

The heater control, according to its description, has various steps that will increase the heat produced by the heater serially, up to its maximum heat. I don't care about that. With my old heater, I added a Honeywell thermostat & turned the old heater control On to its max. That's all I want it to do: Either to turn the heater on to its max when the thermostat turns on; otherwise, the heater is off. I realize that the heater can also be used as a blower without heat. I don't use it that way & want to wire the heater without the possibility of using it simply as a blower.

Question: How do I wire [the 5-pin plug at the heater] to [the heater control & the thermostat] so that the heater turns on to its max when the thermostat turns on; otherwise, the heater turns off?

BTW I went to Boat Electric this morning & discovered that they have moved, from their old building on Westlake up towards the Ballard Bridge at Nickerson Marina. They moved just a few weeks ago, & Jeff, their Espar guy, told me that it'll be a month or two until they get their service dept running again. Their office is loaded with boxes of parts, all of which need to be organized. Jeff referred me to Mark Walter, at Miller & Miller Marine, on Commodore.

Richard Wills
MV Komokwa
Elliott Bay Marina, Seattle
 
Sorry for the slow reply. I have been on holidays for two weeks. First. Check to see whether the air intake solenoid under the heater, has any wires coming out of the rubber grommet. If not them it may be modified already. If it had been modified, you need to tell the ecu to run on high. To do this, you need to find the 8 pin plug that would come off of the ecu. It has a mauve wire in it, you need to snip it off at the plug and permanently connect it to ground. Once this is done, you simply feed your Honeywell with the red wire on that 8 pin plug and have the theromostat return to the yellow wire. Try connecting the thermostat first and try starting it without the mauve wire mod. If the fuel pump speeds up when the motor speeds up(after glow plug cuts out) then the h/l mod had been done already. If there are wires going into the solenoid then open it up and remove the plunger that opens and closes, and snip the wires off.
 
Hi Brian,
Do you have a suggestion where to look when my D12 does not start up. Some week ago all was OK but last Weekend when i tried to start the heater nothing happened when
I turned the termostat. The indication led turned from from green to red but the fan and fuel pump didnt start. No sound at all. When i turned the switch to ventilation fan mode
the fan started normally. But not in heat or half heat mode. I checked the main fuse and a small glass fuse close by.
Many thanks for your kind help!
Stefan
 
ed, yellow(maybe blue, if older), brown, white, black, mauve, and some others. I am at home and this is from memory. But the yellow and red should be there. If you unplug the 8 pin plug, and jump the red to the yellow on the furnace side of the plug, the furnace should start. If it does not, then check the voltage at the furnace before you jump, and as you jump. If the voltage drops below 10.5 v, then there is a bad or corroded connection in the power harness. If there is no voltage drop at all and the furnace does not start then it may be a bad component in the larger off the two ecu boxes. If you open it up you may try to clean the contacts on all three relays. One may be oxidized. If that does not work, then it could be something else in the ecu that I could not point to. At that point I would look for a new ecu box on the Internet. The part # is the number on the front of the larger ecu box. One question, is the glow plug heating up? Also check all electrical connections that may effect the main power or the red or yellow wires. If the jump does work,then I would then look inside the thermostat and see if it is outputting to the yellow wire(may not actually be yellow at the thermostat if the harness has been extended. Let me know know how you make out. I will be
 
First look for the thermostat plug at the heater. It will be a black or white 8 pin plug with two rows of 4 pins. It will have a red, yellow(maybe blue, if older), brown, white, black, mauve, and some others. I am at home and this is from memory. But the yellow and red should be there. If you unplug the 8 pin plug, and jump the red to the yellow on the furnace side of the plug, the furnace should start. If it does not, then check the voltage at the furnace before you jump, and as you jump. If the voltage drops below 10.5 v, then there is a bad or corroded connection in the power harness. If there is no voltage drop at all and the furnace does not start then it may be a bad component in the larger off the two ecu boxes. If you open it up you may try to clean the contacts on all three relays. One may be oxidized. If that does not work, then it could be something else in the ecu that I could not point to. At that point I would look for a new ecu box on the Internet. The part # is the number on the front of the larger ecu box. One question, is the glow plug heating up? Also check all electrical connections that may effect the main power or the red or yellow wires. If the jump does work,then I would then look inside the thermostat and see if it is outputting to the yellow wire(may not actually be yellow at the thermostat if the harness has been extended. Let me know know how you make out. I will be happy to help. Brian Silk
 
I have an older Espar system in our 34' power boat. Seems to work fine, sensitive to power at times but generally works well. What I want to add is a system that would give us HOT WATER (for quick showers and dishes) while at anchor. I know I could switch to an Espar Hydronic system but without spending "big bucks" on that is there another way?? Let the opinions begin..............
 
Mark. Good day. I can't think of much that would be cheaper. Other than a small generator to supply your account element in the h/w heater. But I'm sure a generator running in the cockpit is not what you are looking for. The only thing that I could think of is one of those propane camping hot water heaters. Run on cannister. But it would have to be above deck and somehow able to tie into your plumbing, and be connected and disconnected easily. Below deck would be potentially dangerous, obviously.
 
Brian, can you message me? Your message box is full.

I need your help with my '93 Gwagen's Eberspacher D5W... I hope you work with them :)

Anyway, can you email me whenever you get the chance? I'd love to get my unit working again before winter. I live in North Vancouver.

Thanks!

Tod
 
Brian:

I have a 24V hydronic D5 I have reinstalled into new-to-me boat. It runs with a 12-24V step-up converter. When pulled from the old boat a year ago it was working fine (with all the same kit).

Now re-installed it does not light, and there are no diagnostic codes on the 7-day timer. The timer simply keeps counting down from the 120 minute start point.

Going through the start cycle the water pump runs, fuel pump clicks, fan runs. I didn’t time how long the cycle takes but it is a while (30 sec +). During the final run-up before it stops both the fuel pump and blower fan wind up an extra notch for a few final seconds then it spools down and stops. I assume from failing to light. The countdown timer keeps counting down. I turned it off after 7 minutes. As noted no error code. I have gone through this cycle a number of times and it is depressingly consistent. I don’t think it is simple as being out of fuel – that seems fine. Whilst I have run the cycle a number of times I don’t believe it needs a reset as there have been no error codes.

I thought it might be voltage drop / problems with the power so measured the voltage during the entire cycle. It stays at ~ 22V+ for the entire time, though just for the second before it stops it drops momentarily to 19V. Whilst under 24V, this heater ran fine on the same step-up converter in the other boat. I didn’t measure the voltage in the old boat as it worked fine, though there is an extra length of 12 Gauge wire in the new install between the step-up converter and heater.

Any specific diagnostic steps I should run through?

If you think it is the glow plug, any tips / tricks of getting it out? First cursory view of the manual it looks like I have to disassemble quite a bit to get at it. Any simple way the access the glow plug?

Any other comments or ideas?

I have to thank you for your input and ownership of this great thread. Your experience and knowledge is fantastic.
 
Re the hydronic D5. An update....
More diagnostics tonight and it looks like a problem with the fuel pump. I'll check the filter over then next few days. Looks also like I now have to reset the unit (it now seems locked up - I assume from too many tries) even though no errors codes showing on the 7-day timer, nor can any be retrieved with the keypad sequence.
Always sumthin'....
 
Hello. If the heater does not ignite. It should shut down in about 3 minutes. What see a is it. It will be on the tag and start with 25 followed by another 6 numbers. Yes check the filter, and remember, do not open the output end of the pump! If the filter is clean then it would be the atomizing screen if it is a model produced later than around 2003. If it is older then the burner has an integral screen that cannot be replaced. Kerosene as fuel might clean it. Take the fuel line off the tank and put it into a quart or lire and try starting it. If it fires run it for the entire litre. Sometimes the pumps will appear to throw and tick, pump, but they do not actually deliver fuel, new pump. No diagnostic s is strange. Check that the blue wire with. A white stripe coming from the heater to the timer is connected. It is the wire that carries the diag.. Signal. Feel free to call me at 604-312-9566 if you want to make the trouble shooting easier
 
Brian,
I have an Espar D8LC heater. Approximately 3 years ago I sent the unit to a repair/ dealer in Rhode Island for routine service and cleaning as was recommended. Prior to this I had no problems with the heater for 5 years, just routine cleaning ect... The shop told me the blower motor should be replaced as it was on the low end of the rpm spec. The motor was replaced and after approx. 3 hours of operation it began loading up with soot, fowling the glow plug. The service was done in early Sept and due to traveling the east coast to Florida the furnace was not used until Jan. (except for a short test run after reinstalling in the boat. In contacting the repair shop they would not honor any warranty (to much time had passed) and I would have to send it back to RI for repair all cost would be my responsibility. The attitude of this shop was very rude and uncooperative to say politely and this is not the first time with this attitude. Needless to say after spending $1500.00 on a new blower motor and labor I do not want to do business with this shop. Since that time I have tried to trouble shoot the problem with advise from a different repair shop and have not been successful. Some of the things checked and or replaced : Glow plug, relays, voltages at various components , fuel flow. I finally sent the unit to the second repair shop and now they are saying they get a fault code 33 for a bad blower motor. A few questions if you have the time :

  1. Any ideas if there could be something else causing the blower code?
  2. I understand the blower motors are “throw away” but also read in the thread where one gentleman was successful in disassembling the blower, found the wrong brushes, but I could not find if he was successful in reassembling the blower with good results.
  3. I’m thinking if the only solution is to replace another blower motor (almost 50% of a new unit) to purchase another D8LC keep the old for possible parts or is there a better replacement with the newer designs from Espar as far as dialogistic, diy repair and reasonable replacement parts or rebuild capable? My vessel is a 40’ Nauticat which is a motorsailor with lots of pilot house windows.
Sorry for the length of the post just trying to cover all that’s happened. Thanks for your time and any help or advise in advance.
Bob
 
I will reply tomorrow with my laptop, just have the Smartphone at home tonight. Tough typing.

Brian.







have an Espar D8LC heater. Approximately 3 years ago I sent the unit to a repair/ dealer in Rhode Island for routine service and cleaning as was recommended. Prior to this I had no problems with the heater for 5 years, just routine cleaning ect... The shop told me the blower motor should be replaced as it was on the low end of the rpm spec. The motor was replaced and after approx. 3 hours of operation it began loading up with soot, fowling the glow plug. The service was done in early Sept and due to traveling the east coast to Florida the furnace was not used until Jan. (except for a short test run after reinstalling in the boat. In contacting the repair shop they would not honor any warranty (to much time had passed) and I would have to send it back to RI for repair all cost would be my responsibility. The attitude of this shop was very rude and uncooperative to say politely and this is not the first time with this attitude. Needless to say after spending $1500.00 on a new blower motor and labor I do not want to do business with this shop. Since that time I have tried to trouble shoot the problem with advise from a different repair shop and have not been successful. Some of the things checked and or replaced : Glow plug, relays, voltages at various components , fuel flow. I finally sent the unit to the second repair shop and now they are saying they get a fault code 33 for a bad blower motor. A few questions if you have the time :

  1. Any ideas if there could be something else causing the blower code?
  2. I understand the blower motors are “throw away” but also read in the thread where one gentleman was successful in disassembling the blower, found the wrong brushes, but I could not find if he was successful in reassembling the blower with good results.
  3. I’m thinking if the only solution is to replace another blower motor (almost 50% of a new unit) to purchase another D8LC keep the old for possible parts or is there a better replacement with the newer designs from Espar as far as dialogistic, diy repair and reasonable replacement parts or rebuild capable? My vessel is a 40’ Nauticat which is a motorsailor with lots of pilot house windows.
Sorry for the length of the post just trying to cover all that’s happened. Thanks for your time and any help or advise in advance.
Bob[/QUOTE]
 
good morning. ask the shop if the code 33 is AF or F1, if it is, it is happening now, if it is older-F2,3,4,or 5, it might be old. I would check the operation of the combustion air solenoid, to make sure it is opening when the heater is starting. If it does not open then the air supply to the blower will be too low, which would cause extreme carboning You can usually hear it as soon as you start up, a loud clacking sound. It is possible that the blower packed it in after a very short time, once in a while it happens. You were over the three month warranty by very little, so I would ask the first repair shop if they recorded the hours on the heater, and see if the new shop can do the same. If there are just a few hours on it, 3? then they should cover it under warranty. I would contact Espar USA over this and see what they can do. There is also a pc board beside the two glow plug relays that covers motor function- get them to check or replace that if they have one. I will forward your letter to Espar Canada and see what the techs think. Also, if the blower is throwing a code 33, it could be caused by stiff bearings in the aluminum assembly between the blower and the heat exchanger. get them to spin that assembly and see if it is stiff. I have never rebuilt a blower as you have to remove the plastic impeller wheel, which is pressed on. the problem is getting it back on straight, not wobbly, as it has a .011" clearance and can spill air if wobbly and mess up the air ratio.

I will get back to you after Espar Can. gets back to me. If you don;t hear back from me within a week, give me a call 604-312-9566
 
I checked the voltage spec for the 24v, and 19v is below the minimum voltage. that might be an issue. could you try two 12 volt batteries in series, so you know you have good voltage? below are the specs

5 kW (17,000 BTU/hr) - High
2.4 kW (8,188 BTU/hr - Low 2.4 kW (8,200 BTU/hr) - Low
12 volt 24 volt
Current draw (±10%)
4.0 amps High 4.16 amps High 2.08 amps High
1.91 amps Low 1.91 amps Low 0.95 amps Low
Fuel consumption (±10%)
0.53 l/hr (0.13 US gal/hr) High 0.62 l/hr (0.16 US gal/hr) High
0.27 l/hr (0.07 US gal/hr) Low 0.27 l/hr (0.08 US gal/hr) Low
Operating Voltage Range
Minimum Voltage 10.2 V 10.2 V 20.4 V>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>THIS IS THE MINIMUM FOR THE 24v HEATER
Maximum Voltage 16 V 16 V 32.0 V
 
Update on the D5 Hydronic...
So yes it was the fuel pump. Cleaned and primed it is going again. Fires up with the voltages noted previously, so it looks like the 22V was fine. Thank for posting minimum spec.
Still no diagnoctic codes but I will chalk it up to a bad wiring somewhere on the sensor line and dive into it another day. Now that the heat is on things can progress on a more leisurely pace!
Thanks for your help and comments Brian.
 
Good morning. I talked with the tech at Espar Canada. He said that if they are using a flash code for diagnostics, and not the digital readout, the air intake solenoid can flash the same code as a blower motor. It may be something to look at. If the solenoid is not opening, not enough air gets to the combustion, resulting in carbonizing. Regarding the service, He said you should contact the nearest Espar sales rep, not a dealer, but the Espar sales rep.
 
Brian,
Thanks for the update, I have acouple of calls into the new repair shop but haven't been able to talk to anyone to ask about flash codes. Getting kind of frustrated with the d8, repair ect... (great unit until blowmotor replaced.) Any suggestions for a replacement? Thanks for the sales rep info.

Bob Turner
S/V Old Took
 
The D5a is the only other option. Good for 5 outlets. 18,500 btu vs about 30,00 for the d8. But it runs on three speeds constantly, so the heat delivery in ore constant. 6.4 amps max vs 9 or 10 for the 8. Blowers cost just over $1000, vs 1500 for the 8. Easier maintenance as well as the service is from he outside whereas the 8 has to be taken apart. I have done many replacements of old D7l heaters with the D5 and all customers where happy. What make. Model, and length is your boat?
4
 
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