Watch "2003 496*ho surging? Help" on YouTube
2003 496*ho surging? Help: http://youtu.be/aSALjGAD3Vw
I have a 2003 36 baja outlaw w ith twin 496 ho's with 260hrs on them came from south miami
Ive had alot of bad luck this summer . Last two summers ive had boat have been great with no issues boat has always ran 70 mph at 5100 or so rpms never hitting rev limiter ect.* Well end of season like lsst time I had boat on the water I had a clunk on starboard sngine in drive they ended up checking it out at a local shop at I chipped a tooth in lower unit and money wise I dont have the money for a new drive but they have a used bravo 1 low water only where mine was a bravo x duel pickup but to get me threw this summer and for 1000$ couldnt pass it up.** First issues was this drive was hitting rev limiter where it diddnt before second issue is this starboard engine is getting hot not when I put new impeller in and had back plate resurfsced by machine shop. Pumps water like crazy at idle but if I get on plane it goes from 155-160 to 190 deg slowly then back down to idle it cools down quickly. Steam coming out of exhaust slighly* I took pump off and impeller looks like new still decided to back flush system again and 3 thumb nail size impeller chunks came out had to be from previous change before me bc old impeller was intact. Well I figured yeah! This was vetting hot issue ran again still same issue there getting hot so I took off hose on steering cooler and other end off of oil cooler felt honecomb and nothing poked holes with wire and flushed even with hose off. Water flows pretty good* took off heat exchanger ends and poked all holes blew out all look good.* Ran again last night* on garden hose threw flush kit eliminating the drive* forcing water right to pump.* Again running hot and on rinda scanner said sea water pump blockage high block psi? Which wasnt there before.? Ok this is one issue*
Other main issue is this same engine starter a couple of weeks ago decide to not crank. Started fine all weekend then went to turn key and u could just hear a whinning noise never heard it try to kick forward or grind ect just spin.* So paid shop 200$ for starter and 4hrs labor they said they had to take off exhaust manifold to replace starter. Ok next weekend put boat on water and starts up quick no issues. But now after engine gets to temp it starts changing its tune and u can hear it start to idle down just a tad then it just cuts out like ur turning key off doesnt die then revs back up and idle back where it was.* Seems to only do when hot and usually only at idle in gear or not under 2000rpms I can hurry and get on plane and its fine but only runs around 4900 rpms bouncing slighly. Come back to idle and it does it alot more like every minute or less.** Its weird only when to normal operating temp. Takes sometimes 15 min running on hose for it to do it.* Ran test on rinda scanner thst I just bought to see if it would help* only code was crank sensor 1 fault so I replaced sensor and fsult hasnt popped up again where before if I cleared it** it would stay cleared til it did its drop cut out deal* now it isnt showing that fault
And to make matters worse my port engine is running around 400 rpms less than starboard engine thst im having all the problems with? I was guessing spark plug or wire hopefully
Ok things I have done....
Replaced start of season oil** filter and fuel sep. Oil still look clear/clean on both
changed fuel seps again on both
put fuel inj cleaner in and marine ethonal treatment
Starboard engine with* overheating on plane and cutting out
Changed iac valve bc shop said it would be the fix.* Still does it
switched manifold sensor on top middle with other engine just to try*
switched out knock sensor .... no more error as of yet still cuts out
new batteries, new alternators, cleaner bat conections* alt putting out 13v or more at idle 14.5 more rpms
Ground seems to be good testing with multimeter on top of engine to 50 amp breaker volts stay steady even when engine does its cut out deal
Sorry for the long email im going crazy over this and spent alot of money and noone can figure it out around here so far I have a trip to chicago next weekend and desperately trying to find a direction to fix these issues
Heres link to video of what it exactly does
2003 496*ho surging? Help: http://youtu.be/aSALjGAD3Vw
I have a 2003 36 baja outlaw w ith twin 496 ho's with 260hrs on them came from south miami
Ive had alot of bad luck this summer . Last two summers ive had boat have been great with no issues boat has always ran 70 mph at 5100 or so rpms never hitting rev limiter ect.* Well end of season like lsst time I had boat on the water I had a clunk on starboard sngine in drive they ended up checking it out at a local shop at I chipped a tooth in lower unit and money wise I dont have the money for a new drive but they have a used bravo 1 low water only where mine was a bravo x duel pickup but to get me threw this summer and for 1000$ couldnt pass it up.** First issues was this drive was hitting rev limiter where it diddnt before second issue is this starboard engine is getting hot not when I put new impeller in and had back plate resurfsced by machine shop. Pumps water like crazy at idle but if I get on plane it goes from 155-160 to 190 deg slowly then back down to idle it cools down quickly. Steam coming out of exhaust slighly* I took pump off and impeller looks like new still decided to back flush system again and 3 thumb nail size impeller chunks came out had to be from previous change before me bc old impeller was intact. Well I figured yeah! This was vetting hot issue ran again still same issue there getting hot so I took off hose on steering cooler and other end off of oil cooler felt honecomb and nothing poked holes with wire and flushed even with hose off. Water flows pretty good* took off heat exchanger ends and poked all holes blew out all look good.* Ran again last night* on garden hose threw flush kit eliminating the drive* forcing water right to pump.* Again running hot and on rinda scanner said sea water pump blockage high block psi? Which wasnt there before.? Ok this is one issue*
Other main issue is this same engine starter a couple of weeks ago decide to not crank. Started fine all weekend then went to turn key and u could just hear a whinning noise never heard it try to kick forward or grind ect just spin.* So paid shop 200$ for starter and 4hrs labor they said they had to take off exhaust manifold to replace starter. Ok next weekend put boat on water and starts up quick no issues. But now after engine gets to temp it starts changing its tune and u can hear it start to idle down just a tad then it just cuts out like ur turning key off doesnt die then revs back up and idle back where it was.* Seems to only do when hot and usually only at idle in gear or not under 2000rpms I can hurry and get on plane and its fine but only runs around 4900 rpms bouncing slighly. Come back to idle and it does it alot more like every minute or less.** Its weird only when to normal operating temp. Takes sometimes 15 min running on hose for it to do it.* Ran test on rinda scanner thst I just bought to see if it would help* only code was crank sensor 1 fault so I replaced sensor and fsult hasnt popped up again where before if I cleared it** it would stay cleared til it did its drop cut out deal* now it isnt showing that fault
And to make matters worse my port engine is running around 400 rpms less than starboard engine thst im having all the problems with? I was guessing spark plug or wire hopefully
Ok things I have done....
Replaced start of season oil** filter and fuel sep. Oil still look clear/clean on both
changed fuel seps again on both
put fuel inj cleaner in and marine ethonal treatment
Starboard engine with* overheating on plane and cutting out
Changed iac valve bc shop said it would be the fix.* Still does it
switched manifold sensor on top middle with other engine just to try*
switched out knock sensor .... no more error as of yet still cuts out
new batteries, new alternators, cleaner bat conections* alt putting out 13v or more at idle 14.5 more rpms
Ground seems to be good testing with multimeter on top of engine to 50 amp breaker volts stay steady even when engine does its cut out deal
Sorry for the long email im going crazy over this and spent alot of money and noone can figure it out around here so far I have a trip to chicago next weekend and desperately trying to find a direction to fix these issues
Heres link to video of what it exactly does
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