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Help on VRO!!!!!! (please pipe in)

pastormike

New member
Friends,

I have just joined this forum and am very happy to find it!

I have just purchased an older bass boat 1994 Stratos 201 with a 225 Evinrude Vindicator on it. It has been sitting for four years and have it in the shop to get it nice, for I am a mechanical dufus. I want to get better so I can do the basics.

Here is my struggle, the last engine I had was a 1986 175 Merc..the oil pump went bad and you know the rest of the story.

With my new 225, I am thinking about going to "mixing myself" and bypassing the VRO. There are many thoughts about this and I am trying to do my homework and educate myself on what is best.

Please help educate me, I am very appreciative of your help!

Sincerely,

Pastor Mike
 
The VRO pump itself is a thing of beauty.----------The problems arise in the rest of the system as in the hoses , tank , warning system.------------I know of 2 motors on one boat that were ruined because water ( rain water ? ) ended up in the oil tanks and the system was happy to inject water.------------The VRO can be used as a fuel pump only and there many posts on how to do that.-Do a search.
 
The VRO pump itself is a thing of beauty.----------The problems arise in the rest of the system as in the hoses , tank , warning system.------------I know of 2 motors on one boat that were ruined because water ( rain water ? ) ended up in the oil tanks and the system was happy to inject water.------------The VRO can be used as a fuel pump only and there many posts on how to do that.-Do a search.

Racerone, I really appreciate your response very much. Here is a couple of question for you, hoses eventually crack...if I don't catch that, will my outboard be ruined? I believe the motor has a warning system, but I am kind of paranoid.

In early 90's I had a Yamaha Prov-V 150......NEVER a problem. But, I am sure within time everything breaks down.

What are your thoughts on this?

Mike
 
Alot of guys just plug the oil side and disconnect warning system If it was me I would pull the vro out and add a dependable pulse pump and just premix at 50:1. That way you know it is getting proper lube full time. I`m not convinced changing design on the vro is as dependable as running a three nipple fuel pump.http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVINRUDE-JO..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item2a1e931aa2&vxp=mtr One like this.

KLMCRWBR1, Thanks for the response! Do you ever get down to Sacramento CA?

What do you mean "I`m not convinced changing design on the vro is as dependable as running a three nipple fuel pump"?

Thanks for being patient with me, I am not mechanically inclined...trying!

Mike
 
Blocking off the oil side does not change the dependability of the VRO pump in any way !!!!-----It is a wonderful mixed fuel pump.
 
I have just purchased an older bass boat 1994 Stratos 201 with a 225 Evinrude Vindicator on it. It has been sitting for four years and have it in the shop to get it nice.

(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)

The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.

Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.

The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.
********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine.

Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
 
Blocking off the oil side does not change the dependability of the VRO pump in any way !!!!-----It is a wonderful mixed fuel pump.

Joe, I really appreciate how candid you are! Here is another question for you, if you had my engine and were going to keep the VRO as is, what would you do to make sure you t's are crossed and i's dotted to have this engine be the best it can be? Any advice to someone who has no mechanical experience in this area?
 
Joe, I really appreciate how candid you are! Here is another question for you, if you had my engine and were going to keep the VRO as is, what would you do to make sure you t's are crossed and i's dotted to have this engine be the best it can be? Any advice to someone who has no mechanical experience in this area?

The engine is 18 years old and has been sitting for 4 years. Make sure that the warning horn functions, test it as I stated at the bottom of my previous post........ Does it work?

Then do as Kimcrwbr1 suggests.... mark the oil level on the oil tank, run the engine using a 50/1 mixture in the fuel tank, then after a long day of boating.... check the oil level in the oil tank again to see what was used.

If you have proper compression and spark on all cylinders, but should encounter engine performance problems, the usual cause is fouled carburetors due to sitting.

(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
 
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Thanks so much for this info you guys, I have chosen to have all of the sensors checked and leave as is....i pray that this is best!

Any other thoughts you guys might recommend for me and my engine?

Mike
 
If your sensors/alarms are all working correctly you will be safe with your VRO. I have a 1985 Johnson 70 with VRO and unfortunately the alarm system on that year was not as sophisticated as yours. The only alarm mine has is for low oil in the tank. The original factory oil hoses were made of a material that got brittle over time and in the early 90s the oil hose that went to the motor cracked and unfortuantely my powerhead was cooked before I discovered the problem. The pump itself seems to be bulletproof and will last a long time. I would periodically check your oil hoses to make sure they are not getting brittle. I replaced the hose from the tank to the motor fitting and from the motor fitting to the pump with 5/16 gas line hose from the auto parts store and those hoses have lasted for 20+ years with no issues as opposed to the original factory hoses which lasted only about 7 years. Another little piece of advice, if you are running along in your boat and it suddenly bogs down severely or dies and you didn't run out of gas just check your oil hoses and make sure they didn't crack. Always keep a couple quarts of 2 stroke oil on board in case you need it. You can add to your tank if the level gets low or pre mix with your gas if one of your oil hose cracks. Bottom line if your motor is a 1994 your VRO system has already had all the bugs worked out and I think even if you had a cracked hose it would alarm before you cooked your motor.
 
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