If an engine doesn't start within six revolutions, there's a problem! Start with the basic trouble shooting procedure:
Remove all spark plugs which should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gaped at either .030(longer life) or .040.(hotter setting)
Check the compression. What is the psi reading of each cylinder? (If no gauge, get one, they're cheap!)
Rig a spark tested gaped at 7/16", available at any auto parts store... or build the following (below). All s/plugs still removed. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? NOTE that the 7/16" gap is important!
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
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Inspect the stator under the flywheel as closely as possible (beginning of ignition system). There are three large black coils incorporated in that unit that supply approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor. Should you see a sticky looking substance dripping down from that stator down on the timer base or the powerhead, replace it as that would result in a AC voltage drop to the pack that in turn would result in weak or non existent ignition.
That engine has a fuel primer solenoid setup... look upon it as an electric choke. To check it, have the red lever over top of the solenoid, aimed at the other end. Remove one of the small hoses of the solenoid from whatever its pushed onto. Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard. Turn the key to the ON position and while observing the end of that small hose, push the key in.... fuel should shoot out of that hose. Does it?
Proper starting method: Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard... Apply a bit of throttle to take the engine off of idle... Turn the key to the START position and push the key in and hold it there until the engine fires and starts. Release the key. If all is well, the engine should start within six revolutions.
Let us know what you find.
