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Have Serial #, but now what

C

canal_house

New member
Trying to quickly make sure I am good on this purchase.

Serial# OT263653, what year/hp/series is that

(Mercury Outboard, should be a 200 hp 2000 or 2001)

Thanks!
 
My production lists show that as a 2001 model.

Merc's don't have serial numbers (just a production number) and it contains "zero" usable information in itself.

If Boat Tech is hovering he can throw it at his source and get a hp/model for you - all I can give you is the year...
 
galamb said:
My production lists show that as a 2001 model.

Merc's don't have serial numbers (just a production number) and it contains "zero" usable information in itself.

If Boat Tech is hovering he can throw it at his source and get a hp/model for you - all I can give you is the year...
Click to expand...
Hi graham, The system I have acsses to only covers the (USA) made engines like this particular serial number.
But I am curious to know Is there a master log or link you have that covers other mercury engines made outside of the USA that you know of?

Example how did you find the information for this serial number is: 676 S 10147 Besides your very professional experience with outboard engines?:)
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=378420
Also if it's a secret and you would half to kill me if you told me, Then I would understand.;) Thanks:)



canal_house here is the rest of your engines information.;)
ENG serial number: 0T263653 Model number 1200422YD 2001 MERCURY 2.5L CARBURETED 200 XL
Manufacture Date: 05/08/2000 The service manual Part number for your engine from mercury is 90-878079R01 - 135/150/175/200 HP
 
Thanks guys. So I have read 2001 Optimaxs are bad news, but the XL is different correct?

Any repair manual you advice me to get? Anything I should be looking for on this motor, and more immediately, what are compression numbers i should be looking for?
 
The 2001 (and earlier) Opti's had some cooling issues - not the end of the world, but I would personally stay away from them.

The model you are looking at (200 XL "carb" model) is a totally different beast - the Opti's are "direct injected" 2 strokes - this is a (traditional) 2 stroke, and not even fuel injected.

Since the motor is 9 years old I would pay attention to "how many hours" it has on it (if known).

MYTH - "low hours" means the engine is good

If it has less than 300-400 hours on it that may tend to indicate it has sat around "unused" and "not maintained" - people just don't spend money on something that they don't use.

If it has more than 800 hours on it you have to start considering that it may require a rebuild in the near future (squeezing 200 horses out of 150 cubic inches takes a toll on the internal parts).

I'm not trying to deter you from the motor, but those are things to consider.

If it has low hours I would factor in a "tech check" as a term of the sale - even if you pay for it, better to spend 100 bucks so you know what you are getting into.

Alternately, if it has very high hours, factor in a $2500 rebuild in the maybe not so distant future which will help you determine a "fair price" for the motor...
 
Thanks for the awesome and quick feedback. I am fairly technical and while I am used to finding more information then I can deal with on car engines, I was getting very frustrated looking for 2000+ Outboard facts.

Since i am unfamiliar with the Opti issues, and also since this is not an Opti, is this a decent motor? The hours seem low, but is there any type of computer on board as an hour meter (I assume only FI models have an ECM)?

As for compression, was looking for that base figure and then of course (from car knowledge) know to stay away when there is a between cylinder discrepency higher then 10%.

thanks and any direction to where to purchase that manual would be great, Mike
 
I liked the 2.5L powerheads - excellent ignition system, good carbs - pretty sound motor all round.

But you are correct, no ECM on the carb models, so nothing on-board that you can (read) to give you history...

You can get a factory service manual from a Merc dealer (about 80 bucks) or this site can hook you up with a Seloc's for about 35....
 
If you absolutely have to have a "Merc" part I often deal with a place in Florida - www.mercruiserparts.com

If you don't mind CDI/Rapier or Mallory (ignition parts) or Sierra parts (waterpump kits, carb kits, gaskets etc) then check out the "boat engine parts" section on this site.

Andrew stocks pretty much everything, his prices are excellent and it helps support this website - he also carries manuals for most motors out there...
 
Yes, in particular, don't let someone "cross ref" you to a Champion plug.

There are "some" Merc models (1998 model year on) that DO run Champion surface gap plugs, BUT only those models with (PCM) "Digital Ignition" (I'm thinking it's the Motorolla ignitions but just don't remember - found on some high horsepower models and early Opti's)
 
Took delivery of the boat. Gets on plane great, seems to be running awesome.

Two quick things:

What is standard operating temperature?

After a hard run, how hot should the tell-tale be? It was almost too hot to hold my hand under, but was running steadily and the boat seemed to be performing great. I would say the temperature gauge, which was working, was in the 180-190 range sometimes cooler when running fast, but never hotter.
 
That is to hot. the therostats open at 130-140. The tell tale should be about luke warm, at the hottest. I reccomend changing the impeller, and try it again as it should be changed at least every two years anyway.
 
Agree - it wouldn't hurt to service the waterpump.

You may also want to look at replacing the thermostats - they could be opening late (getting tired).

Since you observed that it ran a little cooler at higher (rpms), that tends to indicate that the poppet valve (which controlls the water flow at higher rpms) is functioning properly, but that the thermostats and possibly the waterpump itself are working at a little less than normal.

180-190 is quite "hot" - an overheat is in the range of 195 with about 175 considered entering the danger zone...
 
Servicing the water pump means removing the boat from the water correct but thermostats are in water?

Only ask because I am on the water and don't have a trailer.
 
the thermostats are under the cowling on the rear and top of the power head. Yes you have to have the boat out of the water to change the impeller.
 
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