Have I done a dumb thing, by getting a Volva Penta engine & outtdrive?

[Whidbey Island Cruiser]

My wife thought I needed a "project" boat, so we found an old Bayliner with a V/P 280 outdrive in reasonable condition (clear gear oil, new-looking propeller, a little white junk/corrosion in the water hose. The 23' boat is great (for $1500 with new trailer), But it certainly has no maintenance or owner's manual. (The 350 engine is missing, but that's an entirely new chapter.)

Are there big differences between the 270, 280, and 290?

I surely don't expect parts to slide on and off of 40 y.o. mechanical stuff, but I can't find anything about anything on YouTube.

I once had a mercruiser, and did a little work on it. But I'm just stunned at how little information is out there on this 280. Hell, I can't even get the propeller off. Hex screw down middle of nosecone. Something about little tabs that bend? Wha..? I don't see anything that resembles a fishing line cutter.

Dear Lord, if I can't even figure out how to get a prop off, this project is dead in the water.

Your suggestion for the simplest outdrive AND engine repair manual, please? I'm just trying to have fun before my cancer gets the best of me.

 

[RicardoMarine]

.....................

My wife thought I needed a "project" boat, so we found an old Bayliner with a V/P 280 outdrive in reasonable condition (clear gear oil, new-looking propeller, a little white junk/corrosion in the water hose. The 23' boat is great (for $1500 with new trailer), But it certainly has no maintenance or owner's manual. (The 350 engine is missing, but that's an entirely new chapter.)

Please note: there is a correct method and an incorrect method for building a 5.7L SBC for Marine use.

Are there big differences between the 270, 280, and 290?
Some yes, some no!
..... all are s/p drives (s/p = single prop).
..... all use a lower gear unit slinger pump for gear oil circulation.
..... 270 has small exhaust outlet housing and flapper, no oil fill plug, Reverse Latch system, no power trim.
..... 280 has oval shaped exhaust outlet, optional production model flapper ONLY, Reverse Latch system, has oil fill plug, no power trim.
..... 280 PT has hydraulic power trim.
..... 290 has oval shaped exhaust outlet, rubber flapper, oil fill plug, hydraulic power trim and a 290 version of the Reverse Latch system.
..... 290 also requires the SS Anchorage Bracket for hydraulic cylinder attachment.
..... 250/270/275 all require the short prop shaft spacer. All have the Reverse Latch system. Prop shafts are NOT internally threaded for the center keeper bolt.
..... 280/290 require the long prop shaft spacer. Prop shafts ARE internally threaded for the center keeper bolt.


I surely don't expect parts to slide on and off of 40 y.o. mechanical stuff, but I can't find anything about anything on YouTube.
Please use caution if viewing YouTube videos for instructional purposes.
Some are ok to good, but some are very misinforming.

I once had a mercruiser, and did a little work on it. But I'm just stunned at how little information is out there on this 280.
Your suggestion for the simplest outdrive AND engine repair manual, please?
Steer clear of Seloc and/or Clymers service or work shop manuals. Purchase an OEM work shop manual.

I have been a ME.com member for roughly 10 years.
Try doing a MarineEngines dot com forum search for Volvo Penta threads that I have posted to.



These are very user friendly components.
Most all threaded fasteners are US NC.
Heat is your friend during dis-assembly. Mapp or Propane..... NO Oxy-Acet!
Keep track of all shims during dis-assembly/re-assembly.

For any Pre-A transmission..... Never...... never..... never attempt to remove the four bearing box clamping collar cap screws without using heat in the correct areas!
If heat proves to have been NOT been necessary, you're only out by 67 cents worth of Mapp or Propane.
However, if you should round out a hex socket because you DID NOT use heat, you will pay a much larger price at your local machine shop!

 

[sandkicker]

I've owned Volvo drive boats since 1964... By and large, I've had far fewer problems than my neighbors with Mercs. I also briefly owned a 25 ft Bertram w Merc drives...

To remove prop with center screw (note position of all removed parts).
1) remove screw
2) Block prop so it won't turn
3) Insert screwdriver shaft thru the transverse hole in the cone
4) Use screwdriver as lever to unscrew cone
5) Slide prop off
6) Line cutter is between the prop and housing and is not visible when prop is installed. If the cone has a center screw, it does not have tabs.

While you have it at this point, install a new "zinc" ring on the drive housing. Make sure there is bare metal on the housing where the "ring" contacts it.

To reinstall....
1)clean off ALL old grease
2) grease shaft of prop with a good quality waterproof marine grease
3) reinstall in reverse order.