Hard Starting 1989 Johnson Tracker GT150HP

[Bass Tracking Tim]

ok, so I sold my 15' aluminum fishing boat with a 9.9 and bought a bass boat, wish i could go back and re-think that descision.

I have a 89 Fiberglass bass tracker 1800TF, nice boat after a decent wax job, motor runs like a raped ape, had her at 58MPH and caught some nice fish with her, problem I have is starting her.

I have owned the boat about a month. the first two weeks I spent cleaning/waxing replacing carpet and then a week of motor issues, got her running after replacing some bad wires that it looked like the mice had gotten into, replaced all six of the plugs and wires, ran 15 gallons of new gas with seafoam, replaced all the oil in the VRO with new Johnson oil, checked for spark at each plug and checked that fuel is pumping into carbs. it seems like its just a cold blooded monster, today at the dock, she wouldnt start and wouldnt start, ran my starting battery dead and jumped it from my trolling battery, finally got frustrated and gave her full throttle, pulled the kill switch, cranked it for about 10 seconds and then pushed the kill switch in to give her spark, and she fired up.

The reason I decided to try that is because she acts like she wants to fire on first turn of the key, and when she is a second from running, the starter cuts out (at least it seems) maybe just a second too soon, however after she has started the first time and ran, I have shut her off for two hours and fished with the trolling motor and when its time to zoom over to the next fishing hole, she starts with first crank,so how could the starter be bad is what im thinking, when i use the choke which is on the ignition (push key in) I can hear it click in the O/B but it doesnt seem to make a difference with or without choke, i have had a helper cover the air intake by the carbs as a hillbilly way of choking, I just cant figure the beast out, tomorow when I go to start it, im going to initiallu try and bury the throttle and use the kill switch to give her spark after a few seconds of cranking, if that works again, I will rock out with it, though I know thats not normal, i suspect however that it wont work again, but im certain that if i spend 30 minutes cranking and trying different combinations, she will run.

I have tried starting fluid (a few squirts) but it didnt seem to make a diff. does anyone have any ideas? is there a way of putting a "cheater" tube somewhere to pump either gas or starting fluid in on the cold starts? i probably left out a detail or two about the engine type, if you need more info, just ask. another small issue is while running at wide open across the lake and then when slowing to idle i occassionally get a small cough from the bottom carb, but never a stall or a backfire and only occassionally.

also I have been reading a bunch of forums with folks using the term "WOT" what does that mean? i assume it means wide open something, thats just a question i needed to ask so i can feel smarter.

any help would be appreciated, I dont want to be at a tournament still cranking the motor when everyone takes off.

Tim

 

[haffiman37]

The engine does not have a normal choke with butterflies that close, but a primer solenoid, black with a red handle on top.
From the solenoid thin rubber hoses going to the center of each carb.
1: Test the solenoid function.
Press the primer bulb hard.
Pull the hoses from the solenoid off either the solenoid side or carb side.(Careful not to break the nipples on solenoid cover if old plastic type!!!!!)
Ign key 'ON.
Press the ignition key IN.
Fuel should squirt out of the hoses/solenoid.
2: Test for blockage in carbs.
Use a thin needle or just a hose and try to blow through the nipples at the carbs.

If all works, put everything back together.
Pump the primer ball HARD!
Key ON.
Push in the key 3 times, and slightly elevate the idle lever on control.
Start the engine by turning the key, but do not keep the key pressed in.
Let the engine warm up at about 1000+ rpm's. If 'sneezing' shortly push the key IN.

The most common mistake is to hold the key IN while cranking which normally will flood the engine.

 

[Bass Tracking Tim]

haffi,

thanks for the reply, solid information, I am going to do this first thing in the morning! will keep you posted, I do have a few follow on questions.

1. when you say "and slightly elevate the idle lever on control" you mean the throttle lever pulled out in neutral and pushed forward so im giving it a bit of gas? sorry to sound new to boating, im better at fishing! I dont know where else you would be reffering to, i have heard people setting the high idle, but i dont know where this is located.

2. what function does the red handle serve? it is currently all the ways clockwise?

again, thank you very much for the info

 

[haffiman37]

1: Sorry, thought you had a 'normal' side mounted cont box. Yes, give it a throttle, not much.

2: The red lever is for manual operation of the solenoid function. It should be 'parallel' to the black body. If on 90 degree, it would constantly flood the engine. You may 'test' it when having the hoses off, then you know the function.