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Greasing cap fitting on AQ125 Bellhousing

J

jamie392

Contributing Member
"How in the world do you greas

"How in the world do you grease this. If I use a grease gun it just comes out the sides, this is the weirdiest grease fitting... There must be a simple way of doing this..."
 
"If it is a cap, unscrewit, fi

"If it is a cap, unscrewit, fill it with grease, then screw it in completely. If it is a zerk fitting, then just use a grease gun."
 
"it is a cap, I just don't

"it is a cap, I just don't see how that much grease could get put in through the cap... I will try that a couple times. Thanks"
 
"Jamie, how much grease do you

"Jamie, how much grease do you actually want to put in? The bearing is supposed covered with grease when installed. If you were to keep adding a generous amount of grease every 50 hours, you would no doubt end blowing the lip seals.

I must say that I am wondering how did you ever manage to run your boat before you came to this forum. Many others and I have helped (or tried to help) many people over the years, but I don't recall ever seeing anyone with so many problems/questions. I believe that most (if not all) of the questions you have asked here are answered in the Seloc/Clymer manuals, and/or in the operator's manual. Further, if you search the forum, you will see that virtually all the questions you have asked have been answered before.

I respectfully suggest it is time for you to do some serious reading."
 
"Trust me I read and search a

"Trust me I read and search a lot. I have read about how you fill the cap when I was searching but like I said it doesn't put much or any grease in when I do this. The reason I want to put lots in is because of the water leaking problem, clearly a lot of the grease was washed out. I am using this boat one more season than I will buy a mastercraft or moomba direct drive wakeboard boat, but still, I would like to keep it up to shape.

I rebuilt the whole boat, new stringers, new floors, rewired everything. My problems have been limited to blowing bellows, clearly I didn't realize that the outdrive could not be up at all when driving in shallow waters, overheating, which turned out to be a fluke where a piece of the strainer housing broke, allowing water to flush straight through without entering into the exchanger. That was what I mainly posted on this site about, and as you can see, it is something rather complicated to track down. I did all the obvious without asking questions on here, when the obvious didn't work I asked to see if I was indeed checking things correctly which I was.

The last problem I am having is ignition where it cut out suddenly, once again I did all the checks on the water determined it was an ignition problem, determined the coil was fine, and that left the electronic ignition. Respectfully, I don't see how that amounts to neglect as you otherwise suggested in another post, or so many problems. I could tear down an engine and rebuild it easy, I could re-wire or re-design any electrical without problem. I try to read through all original posts before I ever ask a question... And when asking a question I like to site what I have originally read about on here...

I don't believe I will blow the lip seal, maybe I am wrong, but snap rings hold the seals in place, and if pressure amounts enough to squeeze some grease between the bearing and seal, then the rotation of the bearing overtime will allow correction of slight deviation. Further, clearly water can intrude through that seal so I think I would rather get grease in there ASAP. I have studied mechanical engineering and with anything there are tolerances and play, any water pressure developed for any ordinary ( > 5 hours) will wash grease through tolerances and allow leakage. In essence grease is what tightens the tolerances between round surfaces."
 
"The snap rings will limit how

"The snap rings will limit how far the seals can be inserted into the bellhousing, but they will not prevent the seals from coming out. So guess what would happen in you overfill the bearing chamber with grease and then pump more grease under pressure.

Installing the seals the correct way (with the springs facing the outdrive, as I explained on another post) may allow grease under pressure to escape between the seal and the u-joint yoke and overflow into the drive bellows. I have seen several seals popping from the housing due to overgreasing, and all of them were incorrectly installed."
 
"my snap right is facing the o

"my snap right is facing the outdrive... Anyways, I think I am going to pull this bellhousing and just verify, or replace the bearings with sealed units because the last thing I want is to sell this boat next year and have someone to break down in the ocean right after they buy it. Plus I will use it another 10 or so times so I want to make sure it is good and no worries about it.... What a job this is going to be... I remember when I put the bellhousing on it wouldn't cleanly slide into the engine, it took a lot of work to get it on, so I guess getting it off will be tough."
 
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