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Got a question about remote oil filter kits…

louc

Advanced Contributor
OK I bought a remote oil filter kit from Michigan Motors for my 88 4.3. Question; some say it’s necessary to change the 11 lb bypass valve in the oil filter mount pad to a 30 psi unit. This is supposedly to keep the oil from by passing the filter. The hoses of the remote mount can cause extra resistance to flow. However some including Michigan Motorz who sells many engines with these remote kits say not it is not necessary. Thoughts?
 
OK I bought a remote oil filter kit from Michigan Motors for my 88 4.3. Question; some say it’s necessary to change the 11 lb bypass valve in the oil filter mount pad to a 30 psi unit. This is supposedly to keep the oil from by passing the filter. The hoses of the remote mount can cause extra resistance to flow. However some including Michigan Motorz who sells many engines with these remote kits say not it is not necessary. Thoughts?

I say use as is. A typical stock V6 or V8 runs around 40-50psi.

I believe the bypass pressure is around 10-15 psi. I forget.

I never worried about that.

If the oil pump works good then it doesnt know or care if its driving the oil thru any hoses to a filter.
It pushes the oil thru a push rod...so it can easily push it thru a 1/2 " diameter hose a few feet...
 
Yep thanks that was my thought as well. But this “you gotta use a 30 psi bypass valve” thought seems to be floating around the internet mostly in reference to Big Block Chevrolets. You know I saw the parts that go into a Mercruiser accessory remote kit for the 4.3 & I didn’t see a new oil pressure bypass valve as part of it.
 
I asked the guys at Michigan Motorz & the said it’s not necessary to change that bypass valve. They sell a lot of remote oil filter kits with their turn key engines. I’d think if there was a problem with oil not getting filtered they’d hear it from their customers sooner or later…
 
I installed one on my boat because I had to hang upside down to change the filter.
I made mine at a Napa store a friend managed back then. Bought the adapfor for block, made two high pressure hoses and made the mounting bracket for the elbow mounting location. Works well!
Been running the remote set up since 1996.
So far no issues....

Makes for filter change as easy as it can be. Kneeling on the back bench seat.
No fuss or mess!!
 
...some say it’s necessary to change the 11 lb bypass valve in the oil filter mount pad to a 30 psi unit. This is supposedly to keep the oil from by passing the filter....
The oil bypass valve (in the block) is there to open if the filter gets restricted, to allow oil to flow into the engine (vs burst the shell of the filter or unseating its gasket)...no need to change anything there...
 
I did some more research to see how the OEMs set up their remote oil filters....
Merc's accessory kits don't appear to include a different bypass valve
I also looked at a Crusader catalog, they don't either for the engines that have only a remote oil filter
On engines that have both a remote oil filter and a remote oil cooler, they change the bypass valve to a 20 psi unit which makes sense since the cooler adds some more resistance to flow.
So I think I should be fine doing it this way.
 
part # 2 is the bypass valve , when you google this part number you find it is a 20 psi bypass valve
the engines with no oil cooler just the remote filter set up don't list this different psi bypass valve
Crusader part # 98173
 
The 4.3 litre and most SBC V8's do not use a Oil Cooler. They only use a power steering cooler.

Based on ealier info posted,

Stock ooens at about 15 psi
Opens if filter clogs.
No oil cooler (4.3 liter)

The one you posted,
Opens at 20 psi
Opens if filter clogs
engine Oil cooler or trans oil cooler (inboards)
454-7.4 liter

Not sure what you are trying to prove or justify???

Its your boat, change it if you want.

Most boats get used 3-6 months a year.
Oil and filter get changed typically once a year.

Odds of filter getting clogged is close to Zero unless engine internals are degrading.

If your running year round and running in the ocean with a heavy load all the time such as a fishing or lobster boat, maybe the extra 5 psi may have a purpose...unless running a Bigblock or trans cooler on a Small block

I would not be concerned and use the parts as is. The extra 4-6 feet of free flowing hose is a non issues.
JMHO
 
part # 2 is the bypass valve , when you google this part number you find it is a 20 psi bypass valve
the engines with no oil cooler just the remote filter set up don't list this different psi bypass valve
Crusader part # 98173
Lou: tnx for the links but I'd say there isn't enough there to reach a positive definite conclusion about the bypass valves being different...The big block diagram referenced is for the newer GENV blocks...there was no separate bypass valve shown on the older MarkIV diagram or, as you noted, for the older SBCs...

I din't think 5 PSI is going to matter, especially on a differential valve...the other thing to consider is if the filter itself has a bypass internal...
 
My thought was that if Crusader didn’t change the bypass when only adding a remote filter then it wasn’t necessary for me either which is what you both & the people who sold me the kit felt. I guess Crusader thought when you have both a remote filter mount & an oil cooler it is necessary to change to the higher psi bypass. Like most mine has no oil cooler…
 
Lou: tnx for the links but I'd say there isn't enough there to reach a positive definite conclusion about the bypass valves being different...The big block diagram referenced is for the newer GENV blocks...there was no separate bypass valve shown on the older MarkIV diagram or, as you noted, for the older SBCs...

I din't think 5 PSI is going to matter, especially on a differential valve...the other thing to consider is if the filter itself has a bypass internal...
The fact that’s there’s no separate bypass valve listed suggests that the standard adapter with the 11 psi valve is what was used; when there was only a remote oil cooler but again I’m making some assumptions here. I was really just trying to figure out what the OEMs did with their remote filter set ups.
 
Why I’m Adding an Oil Cooler to my already remote oil filter equipped 6.2 L MerCruiser.

I boat in Lake Havasu, where both the air and water temps get brutally hot in the summer. Even with a water-to-oil heat exchanger, oil temps can spike fast—and once the oil thins out, protection drops off. I’m not trying to overbuild—I just want to give the engine a fighting chance in extreme conditions. Heat kills.

I’ve hit the usual bypass valve debate, and while I’m not 100% sold yet, I did find a GM 30 psi bypass (25161284) that looks like the right upgrade. Just unclear exactly where it installs in my MerCruiser adapter. Open to thoughts from anyone who’s done this before.
 
I can see the wisdom of adding the oil cooler in those high temps, another option might be using the best motor oil you can for high temp protection, Mercruiser/Quicksilver sell a Syn Blend 25/50 which might provide the protection you are looking for without having to add the cooler. There are other options like Valvoline VR-1 20/50 which can be had in a full syn version.
As far as my original question, on the 4.3s, the bypass mounting is different than on the V8s, there is no removable adapter that the bypass is staked into, it is staked right into the oil filter mount on the block on the 4.3. With the engine in the boat there is no way to get at it even if you wanted to change it. So what I will do is just use it as is, and check to make sure the oil filter is getting hot (meaning that oil isn't bypassing the filter which I guess is the concern).....
4.3 oil filter mounting pad and bypass valve.jpg
 
Why I’m Adding an Oil Cooler to my already remote oil filter equipped 6.2 L MerCruiser.

I boat in Lake Havasu, where both the air and water temps get brutally hot in the summer. Even with a water-to-oil heat exchanger, oil temps can spike fast—and once the oil thins out, protection drops off. I’m not trying to overbuild—I just want to give the engine a fighting chance in extreme conditions. Heat kills.

I’ve hit the usual bypass valve debate, and while I’m not 100% sold yet, I did find a GM 30 psi bypass (25161284) that looks like the right upgrade. Just unclear exactly where it installs in my MerCruiser adapter. Open to thoughts from anyone who’s done this before.

Best to let the engine cool before shutting it off. If possible, open the engine cover when it's not running and use the blower- even at 115°F, it's still cooler than the hot engine. 115° was just a "Yeah, it can definitely hit that temperature"- I was in HAvasu in August, 1969 and first day, it was 116°, second day was 124°.
 
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