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fuse is blowing

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Vanttam

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I changed the ignition in my boat due to key stuck in it and a piece was broke. The issue is when i turn the key there is nothing but when I push the key in to choke it it blows a fuse could that be wires on wrong. its a 1980 Johnson 70 hp. Any help would be really appreciated.
 
Post the color of each wire and the terminal ( letter ) that you put it on.-----Look for pinched wires on the engine.
 
Vanttam said:
I changed the ignition in my boat due to key stuck in it and a piece was broke. The issue is when i turn the key there is nothing but when I push the key in to choke it it blows a fuse could that be wires on wrong. its a 1980 Johnson 70 hp. Any help would be really appreciated.
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How did you decide on the replacement part, correct part number or using something because it was available? Did you take photos or label wires? Can you use the old ignition switch to trace wires to the other end?
 
jimn said:
How did you decide on the replacement part, correct part number or using something because it was available? Did you take photos or label wires? Can you use the old ignition switch to trace wires to the other end?
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I just noticed my power wire from Cylenoid to the started is melted thknkthat may be the problem
 
The solenoid to starter wire (approx 6" of heavy cable actually) has nothing to do with the 20amp glass fuse.

It worked before you replaced the switch. Your problem is at the switch wiring in the control box, assuming you bought the correct switch. A push to choke switch should be OK regardless of brand. OMC/BRP, Mercury, Sierra should all work.
 
Droid said:
The solenoid to starter wire (approx 6" of heavy cable actually) has nothing to do with the 20amp glass fuse.

It worked before you replaced the switch. Your problem is at the switch wiring in the control box, assuming you bought the correct switch. A push to choke switch should be OK regardless of brand. OMC/BRP, Mercury, Sierra should all work.
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So should I try a new switch and see if that works. When I turn the key on there is nothing, no clicking or anything. When I push in for the choke and turn the key the fuse blows and its not the glass one I changed it because I thought it was taking on the motor. I can't seem to find a diagram of the wiring
 
Vanttam said:
So should I try a new switch and see if that works. When I turn the key on there is nothing, no clicking or anything. When I push in for the choke and turn the key the fuse blows and its not the glass one I changed it because I thought it was taking on the motor. I can't seem to find a diagram of the wiring
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Use a multi-meter to find continuity on the wires, so you don't damage anything. Boats have a plug that connects the motor/engine harness to the helm and you need to identify the wires before connecting any of them to the ignition switch. Did you buy the replacement "because it looked like the same one", or by matching the part numbers. Did you disconnect all of the wires before you bought the new switch? If you did that without taking photos, that's a mistake. You should have made notes with wire color/position WRT the markings on the switch, which should have included 'Bat', 'Ign', Acc', etc. You also need to connect the meter to the battery terminal and check for the terminal that is connected ONLY when in the Ign, Acc and crank positions.

SHOW PHOTOS and make notes!

Hopefully, this diagram will help. When you search, you need to type the question that needs an answer- I used '1980 Johnson 70HP outboard motor wiring diagram'. MAke sure to have the serial number if you need parts, too- everything references to serial numbers.

 
I did not take photos and I bought the replacement by model and serial number to had the key stuck in the old one and when I replaced the plb wire tried Todo it one wire at a time
 
Vanttam said:
I did not take photos and I bought the replacement by model and serial number to had the key stuck in the old one and when I replaced the plb wire tried Todo it one wire at a time
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When the key was intact, could it wiggle in the switch, or was it fairly tight? If you insert the end that broke off into the switch (however far), can you still turn it? I would assume so, since the cut end is needed-

If you still have the old switch and end of the key, maybe you could clean the ends with solvent (plastic safe) and use Super Glue (just a small drop) to reattach the pieces. Once it sets, you might be able to pull it out and have a copy made. Once you have a copy, you can check the connections on the old switch with the new one.

If you can't use Super Glue to reattach it, you might be able to bend a tiny hook onto the end of a piece of stiff wire, slide it in under the key's teeth and pull it out.

FWIW and this is more for those who may lose or misplace their key when they really need it-

I save some keys after I no longer need them because they often work for something when I'm in a bind- the key for my old garage door T-handle lock has started a surprising number of boats.
 
jimn said:
When the key was intact, could it wiggle in the switch, or was it fairly tight? If you insert the end that broke off into the switch (however far), can you still turn it? I would assume so, since the cut end is needed-

If you still have the old switch and end of the key, maybe you could clean the ends with solvent (plastic safe) and use Super Glue (just a small drop) to reattach the pieces. Once it sets, you might be able to pull it out and have a copy made. Once you have a copy, you can check the connections on the old switch with the new one.

If you can't use Super Glue to reattach it, you might be able to bend a tiny hook onto the end of a piece of stiff wire, slide it in under the key's teeth and pull it out.

FWIW and this is more for those who may lose or misplace their key when they really need it-

I save some keys after I no longer need them because they often work for something when I'm in a bind- the key for my old garage door T-handle lock has started a surprising number of boats.
Click to expand...
No the key did not break of inside. I just had to wiggle it because the connection was loose and when i took it out. I found out it was broken connection. So i ordered a new one and replaced it i thought i was following the wiring but maybe i did it wrong and that's why i asked about a diagram at the back of the ignition switch. Yes i was asked for a picture of the wiring but i can get one. So any help with diagram would be great
 
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